Another Lawn Question

[jyl]

I didn't want to hijack the other Lawn Advice thread, so I'll start this one and hope some of you lawn-knowledgeable guys chime in.

My existing lawn has three problems: (1) it is lumpy with some low spots, (2) much of it is moss and weeds, (3) much of that part is shady due to some large trees. It isn't very big - at most 1300 square feet in total. I live in Portland and we are just starting the spring growing season. The soil is not rocky, it is a bit clay-ey but not too bad.

I got some estimates to redo the lawn and they are a bit more than I want to spend. So I am thinking about doing it myself.

Here is what I was going to do. I'd appreciate any comments.

(1) Get a load of mulch and a load of topsoil delivered and dumped on the driveway.
(2) Rent a roto-tiller and till the whole yard - grass, weeds and all.
(3) Spread the mulch and topsoil on the yard, evening out the low spots, and till again to mix it in.
(4) Dig trenches and install a sprinkler system (I've done that before).
(5) Rent a roller and compact/flatten the yard.
(6) Broadcast seed on the yard, put down a thin layer of mulch, and roll lightly. I'd use a mix of sun and shade grass seeds.
(7) Water and watch my new grass come in, along with weeds.
(8) Weed by hand until the grass is established (4 months?). Then add spray weedkiller to the hand weeding.

Does this sound good? It is pretty much what most of the landscape services were proposing to do. None of them suggested using sod, they said because we needed shade grass in much of the yard. None of them suggested stripping off the old grass/weeds/soil. One of them proposed first spraying the yard with something to kill everything - grass and weeds alike - before they'd come in and till/level/seed. Should I do that?

I've never used a roto-tiller.

[Por_sha911]

Use a roto-tiller for any length of time on hard ground and you'll understand why they charge what they do.

[jyl]

My yard soil is not hard, but I see your point . . . I guess another option is to hire a laborer and have him use the roto-tiller.

[Dan in Pasadena]

With the size area you're talking about I would not recommend what you propose. You'll do a lot of work to prep and then end up with a lot of weeds.

I would get advise getting an excellent kill with the full strength Roundup - It is about $35 a quart, but that should be more than enough for your area.

Then you can rent a "sod cutter" to remove the dead grass/weeds, do your trench/sprinkler install, lightly scarify and level your existing top soil and put down sod. Instant lawn and the sod acts to kill as a light barrier any possible remaining weed/grass (though I doubt you'd have any). No weeds, no weeding, no waiting for seed.

An option would be to rototill after you get a good kill but leveling and rolling - even a smaller area - is a LOT of work if done properly. When you consider the work you'll be saving and the much better quality of the finished product I would never use seed again unless I were doing a huge area.

[turbo6bar]

I would use the Roundup to kill off what you have.

Next, I'd get a soil sample and take to a garden center. Have it analyzed to determine what it really needs. Add product to get the right base for grass.

The ground will determine whether you can use a front-tine tiller. It beats you up no matter what. Better would be a rear-tine tiller. Ideal would be to hire a guy with a tractor and tiller. He could till the ground and spread the new topsoil and additives.

Are you certain you can dig a trench is newly tilled ground? Even with a mostly clay soil here, I couldn't do it.

I would also go with seed. Around here, you can't get sod in anything other than zoysia or hybrid bermuda. Be prepared to overseed in the future to fill in bare spots.

If the landscapers bid was not ridiculous, I think you'll find his price is actually not too bad.

[Moneyguy1]

Weeds proliferate in soil which is under fertilized. Grass grows poorly in full shade and perhaps another ground cover might be more appropriate. For the main part of the lawn, mow it higher to further discourage weeds.

[azasadny]

Use the Ringer's Lawn Restore natural fertilizer I recommended in the other thread. It will help develop the lawn's roots to fight the infiltration of weeds and reduce results of drought. I'm not a sales guy, just a very satisfied customer.

[madmmac]

You live in the Northwest....you need to lime/sweeten your soil prior to seeding.

[RickM]

IMO, doing a soil sample is good advice. You likely have a agricultural extension in your region (typically associated with a university) that will analyze your soil for little cost. A google search should get you there.

I've done two large sections of yard the way you describe and the result were excellent. If you rent a tiller get a rear tine type. Lots easier.
Consider using treated "Pennington" grass seed. This seed has a coating that encourages growth and inhibits bird consumption.

Rake the seed into the newly grated soil and roll.
Then lay a moderate layer of sanitized/bleached straw (No hay!).

When the grass has developed a decent root structure rake the excess straw and compost.

FWIW, read the seed package carefully and look for weed seed content.

Also, moss shows a shady condition and late weeds show a low moisture condition. I prevent weeds buy keeping on top of reseeding and choking weeds out without the use of herbicides.