Postcard From Venice

[jyl]

Another quickie update on the jyl family summer vaca, for the Europhiles among us.

Left Paris, took train to Venice where we've been for last 4 days. In a great, and I mean great, apartment in the Canareggio sestiere (sorry for spelling goofs). A quiet area, not overrun with tourists. I like going out in the mornings, watching the neighborhood wake up, people walking to work, taking the kids to school, starting up their boats, bringing out the power tools, resuming work on - err, on the building next to ours. Fortunately these buildings gave thick walls, we don't hear it.

I'm not really sure how to best visit Venice. The city is so densely packed with fantastic architecture, art museums, vibrant color, beautiful campos and palazzos - and even more densely packed with tourists. Went to Piazza San Macro, I think there was a Basilica there somewhere, under all the pigeons, people, and Prada shops. We veered off and spent the rest of the trip at the less central sights. Maybe we'll return some year in the winter, I'd trade fewer tourists for some rain and a bit of flooding.

Speaking of pigeons. And of my son. He loves Europe. At home in the US, he is merely a small boy. In Europe, he is the Pigeon Lord. His reign started last year. During an epic battle in front of Notre Dame in Paris, he routed hundred of French pigeons, chased them around and around until they bowed to his dominion. He became the Emperor Pigeon. On this return trip, some of the younger pigeons had forgotten his rule, so he had to do battle again until the French rebellion was subdued. Then he took his might south, to Venice, where the pigeons of the Piazza San Marco resisted his conquest. But not for long. With his secret weapon - a push scooter - he crushed them and established his southern empire. Now he styles himself the Pigeon Lord. I do believe that, of all the things he's seeing during this trip, when he's back in Portland and again just a small boy in short pants, he'll most remember his bird conquests in Europe. And the daily gelato.

Well, back to Venice. We spent most of our time in, basically, the periphery of the central city. I went back to St Maria della Salute several times. This church was built in the 1600s to celebrate the city's deliverance from the Plague which had killed a third of the population. The requirements for the architect Longhena, who became the pre-eminent Venetian builder of his day, including that as the procession entered ths church, with each step a new glory would be revealed. And so as you enter this church, come in through the main door, proceed slowly through the nave, and watch the church unfold around you. It is glorious.

I suppose a gondola or water-taxi ride is obligatory in Venice, but I'm just too cheap. I can think of so many better ways to spend 60 euros that lasts more than 30 minutes. Instead, we took the vaporetto (public boat buses) everywhere, up and down the Grand Canal, out to the Lido and the Murano and Burona islands. Its a fun way to get around, especially if you're not quite as young as you used to be and 6 hours of walking is murder on the ankles.

Youth is all around in Venice. There are so many young people here, starry-eyed with their backpacks, headed for the hot nightspots and then back to the hostel with new friends. Brought back memories of Eurail passes, my twenties, more hair and 30 fewer pounds. Sigh. Well, I'll make sure my kids get that experience.

I do recall that in the youth hostel days, I saw a lot more sights in the rose light of dawn. Guess that back then I didn't have to log on to watch the US market and deal with companies who had the nerve to pre-announce, merge, and report quarters during my vacation. I ended up working until 2AM half the time. Kind of puts a damper on the early morning photography walks.

Well, signing off. Tuscany next.

[techweenie]

I did the same tour a little over two years ago: train from Paris to Venice... You will want to see the Guggenheim, for sure, and there's another great museum just off the grand canal. The great thing about Venice is that you can walk everywhere, and not much of the place is tourist-polluted. It's much less crowded in the early Spring than now, though.

Skip Murano, but Burano is interesting.

I'm sure none of this is really new news for you.

How's the big hotel progressing on Giudecca?

[jyl]

Visited the Accademia, it is under restoration but the gallery is open. Also visited the Guggenheim. Liked them both. Would have liked to see the Ca' d'Oro and Doges Palace exhibits but couldn't deal w/ the crowds.

Didn't know about the hotel.

Murano and Burano were both nice for a combined daytrip, along with the Lido.

The wife and kids found the studios where they make genuine Venetian masks, did a little shopping there, if we get them home uncrushed they'll be fascinating wall art. Not sure exactly how to get them home, might end up buying a cheap hard-shell suitcase just for the masks. Otherwise we've resisted the shopping temptation.

I've become pretty fascinated with the water taxis. Have taken numerous photos, and am thinking about scratch-building a RC Venetian water taxi when I get home. They are hard-chine powerboats, so think I can mock up the hull from bent cardboard, then use that as templates to cut wood, soak, bend, wire, glue, etc a hull.

The real ones are wood or, if newer, fiberglass. But the hulls all look the same, ditto the basic cabin layout. Pics here
http://www.venetianwoodenboat.com/venetian_taxi_grp.htm

I've heard Apr-May is a good time to come.

Now I want to find some books by Donna Leon. Apparently murder mysteries, set in Venice.

[techweenie]

Do they still have the signs in the windows of the shop (near Toiletta) that boast that "their masks were used in "Eyes Wide Shut?"

Take lots of pix. I put some of my Venice pix over in 'random pix you have taken' thread.

Curious about the Lido. I didn't make it there. what was it like?

[jyl]

Yes, the sign is still there. That's where we bought masks.

Lido is a long narrow island w/ central road running down the spine. Basically a summer resort town, used to be quite the place to be seen apparently. They have cars and buses there, is served by car ferry in addition to vaporetto. Some beautiful houses, cafes, restaurants, bicycle rental, shops selling beach toys, etc. And a magazine stand that sells all sorts of titles in many languages. We didn't see the whole island, being on foot. But it was a pleasant day trip, only about 30 min from San Marco.

[Joeaksa]

John,

If you get near Nice France, we are here for the weekend! Then back to London next week and back to Cannes next weekend.

If you are close let me know.

Joe