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http://www.smallspiralnotebook.com/interviews/2007/02/cara_seitchek_interviews_annie.shtml
http://www.smallspiralnotebook.com/images/anniechoi.jpg Quote:
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185571181.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185571655.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185571582.jpg |
If you want to see real world shops for us mere mortals, here is mine,
3000 square feet, left hand low bay is 30 x 30, mid bay is 30 x 30, high bay is 34 x 36 with 14' x 14' doors. It's an old picture, I have almond color metal roll up doors installed now with full poured slabs in all bays. I'm spoiled with 5 acres, but who has ever built a shop "that is too big"? always maximize your building site! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185573857.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185573882.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185573927.jpg |
What's all that white crap all over the ground - is that the stuff that goes on garage floors to soak up all the oil leaking from 911s?
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one of my architect friends designed 'funktion auto'
http://www.funktionauto.com/images/about_lounge.jpg http://www.funktionauto.com/images/about_showroom.jpg http://www.funktionauto.com/images/about_shop.jpg http://www.funktionauto.com/images/services_lounge.jpg http://www.funktionauto.com/images/Pic_Gallery/PCA_Party_Feb_2007/PCA_1024_2.jpg |
Just finished framing this on Saturday. I think it's going to work out pretty well.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185821073.jpg
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Will there be a center garage door which has extra panels in it for RV's and sailboats? |
I lightened it up, the whole front was a dark shadow without detail on my screen.
I'm guessing a commercial O.H. rolling metal garage door for security reasons, right? Sectionals are great but the metal grille stuff is tough. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185822070.jpg |
Interior shot before all the framing was complete. 2nd story loft will be half the building with the front half open to the http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185821999.jpgceiling. 30'x50'.
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BB - that is sweet.
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Sweet shops guys!! |
Will there be a paint booth/ shop in the back right hand corner?
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That corner will house my woodworking equipment in a 16'x20' space. Those windows are almost 8' above grade.
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Is that a 4" slab with #4 rebar each way 12" o.c., or a 6" slab with #5 rebar each way 12" o.c.?
That's a lot of engineered fill and or compacted sand either way. I'd like to know what those column footings look like. I trust there is lots of rebar in the foundation and knee walls to keep them from spreading apart. A pre-mold control joint just inside of the wall will keep the concrete ground slab from exterting horizontal force on the wall (thermal expansion). Control joints diamond pattern around the columns; looks like the column plates are ready to be covered with concrete after the inspection. Did you hire an architect or at least a structural engineer to review or draw up the drawings? |
Column pads are 5'x5' 1' thick with #6 rebar 1' o.c. Column pads are independant of the slab. 240 yards of compacted class 5 inside of the knee walls. Knee walls have the cores filled and rebarred every 32 inches. Slab is 4" with #5 rebar 24" o.c. The rebar comes out of the top of the walls and then bends 90 degrees and is tied to the slab rebar. There is 1" control joint between the slab and walls. The columns are designed to carry a 30,500 lb load. The column pads are engineered for more than that using a soil condition inferior to what I have. Most of the interior soil was undisturbed. I have a 6 mil vapor barrier, 2 inch insulation, 1800' of tubing covered by 8" of washed sand then the 4" slab. I had to build this heat sink to qualify for off peak electric rates. Footings are 1'x2' and go 60" below grade. I came up with the design but left the engneering to the experts.
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2. Are you going to install solar "hot-air" panels or sheath/clad the south wall in glass to make an active system for the thermal mass? 3. Be careful of mold growing in the circulation tubes underground, I'm not sure what the prevention standards are these days. 4. REBAR: I typically go 12" o.c. for the garages and 24" oc. for residential slab on grade additions. I'm sure if there are any limits on what you should be pulling in there your professionals will be able to tell you. I don't trust "fill" the same way I do "undisturbed soil". 5.Rebar at 24” o.c. each way just really accounts for thermal expansion and contraction of the concrete, and does not typically get used for higher structural applications. The 1” expansion gap at the sides is a nice measure of prevention, the footings are also 18” deeper than what my zone uses. You must get quite a temperature variation in your area (hot to cold yearly). |
I like the 6" studs on the exterior walls.
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I shopped and shopped and shopped for getting good doors for my garage.
Lots of choices if you want white in a small grid, but I wanted longer ranch style raised panels in an sandstone color. Insulation is also key using expanding foam instead of just styrofoam block. My big 14' x 14' doors are very rigid and don't rattle at all. They weren't cheap at $2500 each either! These guys at Thermocraft (made in canada I believe) were one of the only mfr's of sandstone color, and I wanted a baked on finish and not just paint it at the job site only to have it peel a year or two later. http://www.door-house.com/prod01T-16.htm http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185893061.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185893112.jpg |
What type of siding are you going with?
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