The Dillon 650 performance evaluation - Page 8

snowman · 10:18 PM

Next I will skip to the Caliber Conversion Section, page 35. Dillons manual is very poorly set up in my opinion, but all I can do is attempt to follow it. The Caliber conversion should be followed before use of the machine, and in my case it was. The first step, case resizing and de capping presented no problems, so I will concede that this step is without issue and works as advertised and works well (as long as the Die is within spec). I will document all the steps in the caliber conversion, as well as the steps outlined by Dillon during numerous phone calls.

I will jump ahead to step 8, page 37, changing the primer punch. All the in between steps only involve removing stuff that will be replaced in detail in the following steps. Since all those steps will be fully documented there is no issue with omitting the removal steps. UNLESS one of you morons insist, and then I will include these steps.

speeder · speeder's Garage

******* loser.

Milu · 07-14-2008, 12:39 AM

Ah yes

The old hotrodders adage, "when all else fails, read the instructions", still holds good

Joeaksa · 07-14-2008, 04:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snowman

Again this is not a deal killer for me. Its after all, an inexpensive, reloading machine, and a few glitches are expected.

Ahhh, how does this "not a deal killer for me" relate to our agreement?

Now that you are changing calibers, just how many thousands of rounds are you going to load before you honor your agreement to sell it to me? First comment by you was "500 to 1000 rounds" yet now we are moving on to another caliber.

Something tells me that this is not like Shaun's "social experiment" (which had an ending in a timely manner) but a never ending fairy tale...

Mo_Gearhead · 07-14-2008, 05:03 AM

Joe ...just ******* drop it.

We ALL know YOU were willing to purchase the machine; we ALL know he is apparently unwilling to sell it.

Let this fool wander off into the desert, posting his endless drivel. One can only be an attention whore if others contribute to his ramblings.

I don't have the power to close a thread, but if ANYONE posts here again (besides the resident fool) ...I'm gonna lose a lot of respect for that individual.

Joeaksa · 07-14-2008, 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mo_Gearhead

Joe ...just ******* drop it.

We ALL know YOU were willing to purchase the machine; we ALL know he is apparently unwilling to sell it.

Let this fool wander off into the desert, posting his endless drivel. One can only be an attention whore if others contribute to his ramblings.

I don't have the power to close a thread, but if ANYONE posts here again (besides the resident fool) ...I'm gonna lose a lot of respect for that individual.

I was actually thinking the same thing this morning. If no one responds to the thread that finally he might realize that no one cares for the status on the press and has stopped giving him attention.

Until some progress is made on the situation (and reloading more ammo is not progress) then this will be my last post on this thread.

snowman · 08:22 PM

I am only reloading the ammo to show that there may be a serious primer problem. I do not expect to get past 100 reloads before it blows up again and I quit, I give it more in case it miraculously starts working like it should. I upped the number to satisfy those that will end up stating it was a fluke. I have seen it screw up 10/50 so far. It may get to 1000 without blowing up, with as many as 200 screw ups and no explosion. The number would be nice to know. If you see 200 primers set in sideways and upside down, squished in half, you know you were just plain lucky none of them blew up. In any case if it blows up I quit. Based on past performance that should not take a whole lot longer. I have a large stock of identical brass, all the same lot, all high quality, once fired. All sized and trimmed and cleaned. Any comments about the brass before I start the next step, the primer step? Anything anyone wants to see before I start? Be specific.

So far all I have heard from you all is a bunch of crap totally unrelated to the 650. Most of you have no direct experience with this machine and offer worthless comment about something that you have no fking clue. I really don't understand your rabid defense of a machine like this unless you work for Dillon. What the fk do you care how it works? I am doing this so that someone who is really interested in buying a 650 will have good info to base their decision on. My evaluation will be limited to 0.308 and 45-70. I will base my conclusion on the 0.308 only. If it screws up I can safely assume that my previous experience with the 45-70 is valid and I have no reason to repeat it. Other ammo may result in differen't performance.

If you don't own a 650 or have a lot of actual experience using and maintaining one, shut the F up, you have no clue.

So far only 2 of you claim to have actual experience with the 650, one admitting to primer issues, the others are just BS artists.

snowman · 07-14-2008, 08:40 PM

Here is the primer feed, pre assembled by Dillon for large rifle. I will remove the shell plate and install it per the manual. adjustments follow.

snowman · 07-14-2008, 08:55 PM

The primer punch is installed.

A second check is performed after the shell plate is installed. The primer punch is observed to be centered in the slot for each shell plate position. That check passes easily.

snowman · 07-14-2008, 09:19 PM

The next adjustment is the primer locator tab, pn 13242 page 41 figures 194, 195

I used a folded piece of paper for a feeler gauge. It measured 0.009" on my caliper, close enough to the suggested clearance of 0.010" According to Dillon its ok as it dosen't touch the shell, and it dosen't.

snowman · 07-14-2008, 09:36 PM

Next is the shell plate final adjustment. The screw in the center is tightened until it is tight, nothing can move. Then it is loosened just enough so that the shell plate can rotate freely, without binding, about 1/8 turn. Finally and very importantly the set screw for the shell plate is tightened. If it isn't the shell plate will eventually bind up and not turn.

Both steps are shown here.. The shell plate is checked for free rotation, ok. Then it is checked for rocking, ie how much up and down movement it has, about 0.015" according to a dial indicator. Dillon states that this is ok and not critical. Any tighter the shell plate binds up.

KFC911 · 07-16-2008, 04:04 AM

Snowflake was absolutely right and the bad news is that Joe isn't going to get the 650 that was promised several months ago:

Sorry, I just had too

t951 · t951's Garage

snowman banned, i doubt he will honor this sale now......as if he ever would have.

Joeaksa · 07-16-2008, 06:53 AM

Hey Jack,

Now that it appears that this thread is about to be closed, how are we going to work out the sale of the press as you agreed to?

Let me know and am sure that you will honor your word to do so once you get finished with this experiment!

Joe

Joeaksa · 10-26-2008, 03:50 PM

Just to close out the thread properly...

Well gents, the Snowman is back at his old tricks. He finally emailed a couple of days ago.

He offered to sell me the reloading press a long time ago. I offered him $300 and he accepted. Now he finally gets back to me months after wards (and after its blown up several more times due to his ineptness) telling me that he is now going to be selling the press in pieces. For $300 I would get the main part of the press but not the case feeder!!! He wants an extra $150 for the case feeder now. First it was the whole press but now its a "piece by piece" deal. How am I supposed to feed shell casings into the press?

What an idiot...

Joe A

Joeaksa · 11-05-2008, 05:06 AM

Just heard from this idiot again and now he is putting the reloading press on Ebay. I refused to buy it from him in pieces at a higher price.

He is going to sell the thing there and let someone else try to kill themselves with it. Cannot wait to see the lawsuit's fly...