Home advice.

Arizona_928 · 08:53 PM

i've been getting outlets that are going out, and today it finally got to me..
been putting it off but now it's worrying me because i'm done to like every other outlet. i also rent soooo it's a PITA to get them to fix it..
i'm kinda werry about testing them because i hate to get shocked, but am unable to get any Volts form em.....

sorry for the weird post but it posted it when i hit enter.....

Danny_Ocean · 07-31-2008, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZ_porschekid

electrissity

Yes. To test a receptacle, take a paper clip and bend it in a "U" shape. Insert the paper clip into the receptacle. If it welds itself to your fingers, that socket is good. Move on to the next and repeat.

crustychief · crustychief's Garage

actually if the outlets are going out the installer ( probably the homeowner ) probably used the push connectors on the back of the outlet vice the screws. These push lock connectors come loose after a while. you need to find the breaker of the outlet and remove the outlet from the wall and use the screw terminals.

rick-l · 08-01-2008, 05:29 AM

does your rental insurance cover fires?

Jim Richards · 08-01-2008, 05:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danny_Ocean

Yes. To test a receptacle, take a paper clip and bend it in a "U" shape. Insert the paper clip into the receptacle. If it welds itself to your fingers, that socket is good. Move on to the next and repeat.

Danny forgot to use the GREEN FONT for his sarcastic response. Electrictiy kills, so play it safe!

onewhippedpuppy · 08-01-2008, 05:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rick-l

does your rental insurance cover fires?

+1 Not something to screw around with. Find the breaker and kill it. If you don't know which breaker, shut off the entire house. Pull the outlet, and see WHY it's losing power. Worst case, it's some sort or aluminum of older sub-par wiring that's corroded and breaking. In which case, the entire house should be rewired. Is the house newer, or old?

john70t · 08-01-2008, 06:24 AM

Don't do anything-except contact the landlord by email (for proof).
-If he doesn't fix them quickly (this is a fire-saftey issue), then put your next check into escrow and let him know why.
-If the LL still doesn't respond, use the $$ to move, or hire a licenced/bonded electrician against your rent and/or contact the city housing department.

Legally, it's not your house to modify. As per the lease agreement, you only "temporarely own" the property with conditions to maintain it in at the same standards.

3.2 CAB · 08-01-2008, 06:38 AM

I don't think that I would go the "email route" because the person that was supposed to receive it can just say it never came through. I would use certified, registered mail, signature required, then you will have a hard copy, that they indeed did receive your complaint. Emails are too easy to say they never got there.

Danny_Ocean · 08-01-2008, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crustychief

actually if the outlets are going out, the installer ( probably the homeowner ) probably used the push connectors on the back of the outlet vice the screws.

I just re-did every switch & receptacle in a new house. A "licensed" electrician wired the place and used the push-lock devices at every location.

Danny_Ocean · 08-01-2008, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZ_porschekid

i also rent soooo it's a PITA to get them to fix it..

You're 16. How do you rent anything?

Porsche_monkey · 08-01-2008, 07:54 AM

Properly installed 'push-lock' connections are 100% safe. Provided the strip gage is used and the wire is seated to the right depth they are fine. UL doesn't approve unsafe concepts.

I would buy the $5.00 circuit tester shown here, test your outlets for polarity, power and ground, then notify your landlord of deficiencies in writing. Perhaps with your next rent cheque. He cashes the cheque, you know he got the letter.

john70t · 08-01-2008, 08:01 AM

The push locks have a smaller contact area, effectively making them the smallest link on the chain. That may be ok for regular use (if the connections are correct), but why risk it?

Danny_Ocean · 08-01-2008, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Porsche_monkey

Properly installed 'push-lock' connections are 100% safe. Provided the strip gage is used and the wire is seated to the right depth they are fine. UL doesn't approve unsafe concepts.

They may be approved, but they have a high failure rate over time. There's also the possibility of arc'ing. The switches/receptacles that were installed in my home were the cheapest available (didn't even have screw terminals) and many did not work.

Want to see a UL approved electrical device that failed on me big-time? (I carry a melted one in my work truck to show other electricians who use them)

Although rated for 240v, I will only use these on low-voltage circuits now.

Porsche_monkey · 08:15 AM

I suppose I should have stated that quality name brand outlets were assumed. I wouldn't use low cost outlets, some risk is assumed, and very little money is saved.

As an electrical engineer I have zero concern with a properly installed push-lock on a quality outlet.

But, I can see that if you are prone to worrying about this sort of thing, that a screwed on wire is superior. That's a given. On a protected 15 Amp cct the push-lock is fine.

As far as arcing goes, eventually arc detection will be required on all circuit breakers. But your concern, for an improper installation, is valid. Arc detection is now mandatory here on bedroom circuits. A very good idea.

Danny_Ocean · 08-01-2008, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Porsche_monkey

As an electrical engineer I have zero concern with a properly installed push-lock on a quality outlet.

Even the "cheapies" are UL approved...

I dated an electrical engineer...she didn't know squat about home wiring! I fixed a lot of stuff in her house that she attempted herself...

Porsche_monkey · 08-01-2008, 08:41 AM

But the side benefits? Were they okay?

Danny_Ocean · 08-01-2008, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Porsche_monkey

But the side benefits? Were they okay?

Oh yeah. Although she didn't know much about electric, she could suck the paint off a cue ball!

Arizona_928 · 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crustychief

actually if the outlets are going out the installer ( probably the homeowner ) probably used the push connectors on the back of the outlet vice the screws. These push lock connectors come loose after a while. you need to find the breaker of the outlet and remove the outlet from the wall and use the screw terminals.

that's more likely.

the house isn't that old either, it was an add-on to another house but that's another story its self

Arizona_928 · 08-01-2008, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rick-l

does your rental insurance cover fires?

rentals insurance what's that?

dad911 · 08-01-2008, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danny_Ocean

They may be approved, but they have a high failure rate over time. There's also the possibility of arc'ing. The switches/receptacles that were installed in my home were the cheapest available (didn't even have screw terminals) and many did not work.

Want to see a UL approved electrical device that failed on me big-time? (I carry a melted one in my work truck to show other electricians who use them)

Although rated for 240v, I will only use these on low-voltage circuits now.

It's not the voltage, but the current that would cause this to fail. Voltage rating pertains to the insulation. I would bet it was improperly used.

I have seen many screws loosen over the years also. Open any panel 5 years later, and the screws can be tightened on the breakers. I trust the push-ins.