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Not sure about the minwax stuff

I'll take a closer look at the can when I get home tonight. I'm assuming it's a hybrid/poly based, since I do remember it warned to use only in a well ventilated area. it also seems to dry in about a day.

I think I found something online that said that the minwax is one of the "wiping varnishes" but that the oil additive is tung oil. So you have some tung oil in your "Tung Oil".

Thanks Steve. I checked the can and the Minwax website, and neither lends any clues as to what I'm wiping on. There's a VOC "rating" on the can of 5lb per gallon. I tried calling Minwax, but they closed before I got home. Will try again tomorrow.

OK - so this has now become an obsession, but I've found the following on a woodworking BBS:

"If you want someting easy to apply, and strong, choose one of the oil/varnish blends, but don't expect to just wipe it off with mineral spirits. Watco, Deftoil, Minwax Tung Oil finish, etc, are examples."

So it sounds like the Minwax has some tung oil in it, but is definitely not the pure stuff.

Here's something I found

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=262442&postcount=11

Quote:

Troy, even more flagrent example of marketing is Minwax Tung Oil Finish. It contains absolutely no real tung oil. It's a mixture of varnish and linseed oil.

Here is something I put together for a woodworking club newsletter a few years ago. It is still relevent and may help getting through the "marketing" hype.

True tung oil comes from the nuts of a tree in China--and some other parts of the world. A product that is a true tung oil will have a label that says either "pure" or "100%". If it doesn't say that on the label, IT ISN'T TRUE TUNG OIL. Forget about all the other baloney and look for one of those two words if you want to use a true tung oil. If the label contains any other chemicals, except a thinner, you are not getting a true tung oil.

"Tung Oil Finish" is a marketing expression for products that the manufacturer thinks will give you a finish like the finish you get from a true tung oil. These "Tung Oil Finishes" may or may not contain some true tung oil, but most do not contain any true tung oil. Their only claim to the use of the word "tung" is that it claims to give you the appearence of finish that results from tung oil. You're buying a "faux tung oil finish".

There are two types of "tung oil finishes". One is mixture of varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits (called an oil/varnish). The exact mixtures are proprietary but 1/3, 1/3, and 1/3 will get you real close. Some manufacturers add a dollop of drier to speed up the drying. This same mixture is frequently also called "Danish Oil" because it gives a finish that resembles the finish used on much of the "danish style" teak furniture imported in the 50's and 60's. It closely mimics a true oil finish but the addition of the varnish resins gives it more durability and protection.

Here are some oil/varnish mixtures*)
Deft Danish Oil
General Finishes' Sealacell
Behlen Danish Oil
Maloof Finish
Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish
Minwax Tung Oil Finish
Minwax Antique Oil Finish
Velvit Oil
Watco Danish Oil
McCloskey Tung Oil Finish (contains pure tung oil, not linseed oil)

The second "tung oil finish" is one made from varnish and mineral spirits. The approximate ratio is 1:1. This is really just a thinned varnish just like the stuff sold as "wiping varnish". When one two or three coats are applied, it also mimics the finish produced by a true oil but it is harder than the oil/varnish above because it does not have as much oil. It is slightly more protective than the oil/varnish type or tung oil finish. For all intents and purposes it is a varnish finish.

Here are some thinned varnishes*)
Minway Wiping Varnish
Watco Wiping Varnish
Formby's Tung Oil Finish
Zar Wipe-on Tung Oil
Val-Oil
Hope's Tung Oil Varnish
Gillespie Tung Oil
Waterlox
General Finishes' Arm R Seal
Jasco Tung Oil

One way to tell whether the product is an oil/varnish or a wiping varnish is to read the application instuctions. Oil/varnishes are applied, then given some time to set, then wiped dry. Wiping varnish products are wiped on an left to dry (no wiping off).

For either of the above, you can mix your own using your own proportions, can it and sell it as "My Greatest Tung Oil Finish". Then announce a new product with slightly different proportion and call it "My Greatest Danish Oil Finish". We're not talking rocket science here.

Finally, I'm not saying that any of these products are not good. In fact, they are a more protective and durable finish than any pure oil finish. They are what they are and can give you a good finish when properly applied.

(*) Thanks to Bob Flexner "Understanding Wood Finishes"

How about just some olive oil. We all eat gallons of those. It jsut have to serve its purpose to protect the wood from moisture. What little is left on the lid. Try Boos ( I think that's the name) cutting board sealent. that's stuff works wonders.

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171 (Post 4580203)

I've got some 100% tung oil in the mail on the way to my house. Tung Oil dries and gets hard. It soaks into the wood and seals it making the wood essentially water-proof.

Olive oil does not dry.

Knew a guy that built log homes. Said that tung oil is the absolute best finish. The real stuff - cut with turpentine as I remember.

He also said the US Army uses loads of it. Keeps cannon barrels and other things from rusting apparently.

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Gaijin (Post 4580409)

Yeah, I've seen sites say that it can be used to seal concrete, coat tool steel, etc....

Quote:

Originally Posted by masraum (Post 4580434)

Yeah, I've seen sites say that it can be used to seal concrete, ....

Isn't it linseed oil they use on concrete?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Porsche_monkey (Post 4580449)

Isn't it linseed oil they use on concrete?

They may, but I've read that Tung oil can be used on concrete.

OK - just got off the phone w/ Minwax. Their Tung Oil Finish is:

Tung Oil (48%), Lemon Oil, Mineral Sprits & Varnish

They wouldn't give me all of the ratios, but I didn't press it either, as I was mostly curious about the tung oil content.

Quote:

Originally Posted by myamoto1 (Post 4580717)

Cool, that jives with what I'd heard a couple of years ago, that it's got some tung oil.

I was hoping it had a decent amount considering the price was in line with the pure stuff on the realmilkpaint site.

Genuine tung oil is made from a highly toxic seed nut that resembles a Brazil Nut. The trees have the seed pods that are almost round, about the size of a tennis ball. There used to be a decent market for the seeds, but with the products made from them is so toxic, there is no real market for them anymore. I used to have a tung nut tree orchard on an 80 acre section of land, and towards the end of market for the nuts, you had to go further and further to sell them, because so many companies that did make tung oil products, just about totally quit marketing them do to liability issues, because the products were so toxic. :eek:

The tung nut tree is fast growing and bears a lot of the ball like seed pods. There used to be a lot of those trees growing along the side of I-59 going through Mississippi. The "nut" looks almost like a Brazil Nut, and for many years, just about every year, there would be a handful of poisonings of tourist that thought that is what they were eating.:confused: This is a highly toxic neuro-poison, with no known antidote. I, personally would NEVER use any type of tung nut product, and I also destroyed all of the trees that used to be in that orchard. Cut down, bulldozed, and removed all traces of them that I could find. There is still some scattered around the 160 acres, but not an orchard with row after row of them.

I would certainly recommend to anyone, to choose a different product, due to the toxicity of the tung nut and the products made from them. I know what I am speaking about, because of commercial harvest, and have first hand knowledge of poisonings that have been due to them being eaten mistakenly for Brazil Nuts. If you really are dead set on using it, just make sure that it is on something that will not come in contact with anything that could possibly get ingested. Tony. SmileWavy

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3.2 CAB (Post 4581516)

Genuine tung oil is made from a highly toxic seed nut that resembles a Brazil Nut.

Castor Beans are also highly toxic, but castor oil was taken probably by millions of folks without dying. Just because the nut or tree is toxic doesn't mean that the oil from the nut is.

The Tung nut is toxic and can cause death, but the oil is not.

http://jpet.aspetjournals.org/cgi/content/abstract/74/2/114

Quote:

A STUDY OF THE TOXIC PROPERTIES OF TUNG NUTS
J. L. E. ERICKSON 1 and J. H. BROWN JR. 1

1 From the Department of Chemistry, Louisiana State University, Baton Rouge

The toxic principle of tung nuts is not present in tung oil, but is found in tung meal. A method by which this principle may be destroyed is described. An attempt to isolate the toxic material was unsuccessful.

FDA: Pure Tung Oil is approved for food contact by the FDA.
http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?FR=175.300

The MSDS

Quote:

Distributed by:
The Real Milk Paint Co.
11 West Pumping Station Road
Quakertown, PA 18951
Phone: 215-538-3886
Fax: 215-538-5435

24 Hour Emergency Phone: Chem-Tel Inc. 800-255-3924

Date of Prep: 02/23/05

Section 1. - Identification:
MANUFACTURER:
COOPERATIVA AGRICOLA LTDA
DE PICADA LIBERTAD
CHINA NATIONAL CEREALS
COOPERATIVEA COLONIAS UNIDAS
AGROPEC IND LTDA

TRADE NAME: TUNG OIL (also Chinawood Oil)
CAS NUMBER: 8001-20-5
HMIS/NEPA HAZARD IDENTIFICATION SYSTEM: H-O F-2 R-0 P-B

Section 2. – Hazardous Ingredients:
Raw tung oil is not a hazardous material under current dept of labor definitions.

Section 3. – Physical Data:
Boiling Range: N/A
Vapor Density Heavier than Air
Percent Volatile by Volume: N/A
Weight per Gallon: Approximately 7.5 lbs.
Appearance: Clear, Transparent Liquid - Amber to Light Brown
Specific Gravity @25°C: 0.933 – 0.938

Section 4. – Fire and Explosion Hazard Data:
Flammability Classifications: DOT - Not Regulated
Flash Point: ABOVE 250 DEG F
Extinguishing Media: Sand
Unusual Fire & Explosion Hazards: Keep containers tightly closed, Isolate from heat, electrical equipment, sparks and open flame. As with all vegetable oils, rags, steel wool or waste soaked with oil, may spontaneously catch fire if improperty discarded. Immediatley after use, place the oil soaked material in a sealed water-filled metal container.

Section 5. – Health Hazard Data
Effects of Overexposure:
A mild dermatitis may occur with prolonged contact if individual is sensitive; possible nausea upon injestion.

Emergency and First Aid Procedures:
Wash thoroughly with soap and water.

Section 6. – Reactivity Data
Stability: Stable
Conditions to Avoid: Caustic Amines, Alkanolamines, Inorganic Acids
Hazardous Decomposition Products: Unknown if any
Hazardous Polymerization: Will not occur

Section 7. – Spill or Leak Procedures
Steps to be taken in case material is released or spilled:
Confine with sand or other insert media. Return to containers. Dispose in accordance with local, state, & federal regulations.

Waste Disposal Method:
Call National Response Center 800-424-8802

Section 8. – Special Protection Information
Respiratory Protection: Not normally needed.

Ventilation: Normal plant ventillation.

Protective Gloves: Rubber or neoprene.

Other Protective Equipment: Not normally needed.

Eye Protection: Goggles as guard against splashing.

Section 9. – Disclaimer and/or Comments
The information in this MSDS was obtained from sources which we believe are reliable. However, the information is provided without any representation or warranty, expressed or implied, regarding its accuracy or corrections.

The conditions of handling, storage, use and disposal of the product are beyond our control and may be beyond our knowledge. For this and other reason, we do not assume responsibility and expressly disclaim liability for loss, damage, or expense arising out of or in any way connected with the handling, storage, use of disposal of the product.

© All rights reserved by "The Real Milk Paint Co." and Dwayne Siever.
Duplication and reprinting permitted for personal use only. No reprinting, copying all or part for publication or any other use without written permission.