Real Tung Oil

masraum · 03-29-2009, 10:34 AM

Has anyone here ever used real tung oil (not the hybrid or false stuff that they sell at HD)

Thoughts, comments?

I'd like to try it on some small projects. It's a drying oil that hardens/polymerizes when it drys. It leaves the wood with a natural finish (not shiny) but the wood is protected. It's not supposed to darken like linseed oil. It's also supposed to waterproof wood.

Gogar · 03-29-2009, 11:10 AM

I did the outside of this cedar chest with tung oil. I think it turned out pretty good. It can be shiny if you put enough (or too much) on.

Yes I staged the books, just for the Pelican crowd.

rvanderpyl · rvanderpyl's Garage

Polymerized Tung Oil is a different product than pure tung oil. It drys much faster and can be built up in thicker layers than pure tung oil. The only real issue witrh pure tung oil is that it takes some time to dry, and you need to put on many, very thin layers so get a good protective surface. Also it is produced from a nut, and some people may be allergic to it.

masraum · 03-29-2009, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvanderpyl

Polymerized Tung Oil is a different product than pure tung oil. It drys much faster and can be built up in thicker layers than pure tung oil. The only real issue witrh pure tung oil is that it takes some time to dry, and you need to put on many, very thin layers so get a good protective surface. Also it is produced from a nut, and some people may be allergic to it.

Right, I ordered some real (not polymerized) Tung from http://www.realmilkpaint.com/ today.

I'm going to give it a shot on a small project or two and see how I like it.

Porsche_monkey · 03-29-2009, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gogar

Yes I staged the books, just for the Pelican crowd

I'm on page 600 of the thick one there. It's good reading, but hard work some times.

A good source for finishing supplies, or just 'info':

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=20049&cat=1,190,42942

targa911S · 03-29-2009, 05:02 PM

I have used it on gun stocks but it takes a long time to dry, many coats for any depth, and it does not wear well. It is also water sensitive.

Gogar · 03-29-2009, 05:09 PM

I'm beginning to think that I used the "polymerized' kind of stuff that you don't want. It was "Gillespie" IIRC.

Yep, just looked, and gillespie "tung oil" is actually a 1:1 "Wiping Varnish."

afterburn 549 · 03-29-2009, 06:17 PM

If you wet sand these oils most any, Tung or Teak oil will be beautiful. It involves a few steps, but gorgeous

fintstone · fintstone's Garage

Yes, I have used it. It made a beautiful and long-lasting finish. I put it on with my bare hands, using the warmth of my hands to help rub it into the wood. It did take several coats but came out very nice. You can always go back later and rub some more on to freshen the look. It really brings out the grain of the wood. If you want a color change or just a darker piece, you can apply an appropriate wiping stain first.

masraum · 03-29-2009, 06:57 PM

Good info guys, thanks. I'm going to try it on the pot lid holder that I'm going to make and also on my kitchen knife handles.

Quote:

Originally Posted by targa911S

It is also water sensitive.

Weird, everything that I've read says that it's pretty much permanently water proof once it dries and was used on boats by the Chinese way, way back.

masraum · 03-29-2009, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gogar

I'm beginning to think that I used the "polymerized' kind of stuff that you don't want. It was "Gillespie" IIRC.

Yep, just looked, and gillespie "tung oil" is actually a 1:1 "Wiping Varnish."

Yeah, apparently most things that are advertised as tung oil aren't. Most don't even have tung oil in them but are varnish and linseed oil or some other similar mix.

I hate deceptive marketing.

look 171 · 03-30-2009, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gogar

I'm beginning to think that I used the "polymerized' kind of stuff that you don't want. It was "Gillespie" IIRC.

Yep, just looked, and gillespie "tung oil" is actually a 1:1 "Wiping Varnish."

French polish?

look 171 · 03-30-2009, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by masraum

Good info guys, thanks. I'm going to try it on the pot lid holder that I'm going to make and also on my kitchen knife handles.

Weird, everything that I've read says that it's pretty much permanently water proof once it dries and was used on boats by the Chinese way, way back.

Was it Poplar that you want to use it on? the pot holder is going in a drawer someshere? I would use Olive oil because it is edable. Who knows what in the Tung oil.

masraum · 03-30-2009, 04:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

Was it Poplar that you want to use it on? the pot holder is going in a drawer someshere? I would use Olive oil because it is edable. Who knows what in the Tung oil.

100% Tung Oil comes from Nuts. It's non-toxic unless you get the stuff that says it's tung oil but it really isn't. It's actually going to hold the lids to pots in a cabinet.

It'll function similar to this.

look 171 · 03-30-2009, 05:23 PM

I know you want to put a large cove in the bottom, but would it be easier if you make it like the pic with a couple of stick. This way, the large pot lid will not bottom out on the cove.

Zeke · 03-30-2009, 05:51 PM

Get some Japan dryer from the art supply. Use a drop or 2 in your TO.

masraum · 03-30-2009, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

I know you want to put a large cove in the bottom, but would it be easier if you make it like the pic with a couple of stick. This way, the large pot lid will not bottom out on the cove.

Basically, it's going to be a piece of wood with several dowls sticking up in two rows at regular intervals. I'm also going to add a cove to the wood so the lids don't want to roll out of the holder.

masraum · 03-30-2009, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by milt

Get some Japan dryer from the art supply. Use a drop or 2 in your TO.

Thanks Milt. I'll get some.

look 171 · 03-30-2009, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by masraum

Basically, it's going to be a piece of wood with several dowls sticking up in two rows at regular intervals. I'm also going to add a cove to the wood so the lids don't want to roll out of the holder.

If the lid is large enough, then for sure they will roll out when they bottom out. If you had a stick or wood high enough to create a open cavity, then there is no chane for the larger lids to bottom out and roll. Ask me how I know and got a yelling from my wife about what a crappy cabinet designer I am. Tell you the true, it is a PITA to get the lids out because the round handles usually get caught on the inside of the other lid sitting next the one you want. I ended up taking out a few just to get to the one I really want usually with a lot of bad language. Of course I say it silence. Wife's idea from a magazine and it doesn't really work. great spece saver that it true. Good luck and let us know how it turn out for you.

myamoto1 · myamoto1's Garage

funny this thread should come up - I'm in the process of putting tung oil on all of the interior doors in my house. of course, I'm using the cheaper Minwax version and not the real stuff. so far looks great, but stinks like crazy!