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Real Tung Oil
Has anyone here ever used real tung oil (not the hybrid or false stuff that they sell at HD)
Thoughts, comments? I'd like to try it on some small projects. It's a drying oil that hardens/polymerizes when it drys. It leaves the wood with a natural finish (not shiny) but the wood is protected. It's not supposed to darken like linseed oil. It's also supposed to waterproof wood. |
I did the outside of this cedar chest with tung oil. I think it turned out pretty good. It can be shiny if you put enough (or too much) on.
Yes I staged the books, just for the Pelican crowd. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1238353816.jpg |
Polymerized Tung Oil is a different product than pure tung oil. It drys much faster and can be built up in thicker layers than pure tung oil. The only real issue witrh pure tung oil is that it takes some time to dry, and you need to put on many, very thin layers so get a good protective surface. Also it is produced from a nut, and some people may be allergic to it.
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I'm going to give it a shot on a small project or two and see how I like it. |
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A good source for finishing supplies, or just 'info': http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=20049&cat=1,190,42942 |
I have used it on gun stocks but it takes a long time to dry, many coats for any depth, and it does not wear well. It is also water sensitive.
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I'm beginning to think that I used the "polymerized' kind of stuff that you don't want. It was "Gillespie" IIRC.
Yep, just looked, and gillespie "tung oil" is actually a 1:1 "Wiping Varnish." |
If you wet sand these oils most any, Tung or Teak oil will be beautiful. It involves a few steps, but gorgeous
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Yes, I have used it. It made a beautiful and long-lasting finish. I put it on with my bare hands, using the warmth of my hands to help rub it into the wood. It did take several coats but came out very nice. You can always go back later and rub some more on to freshen the look. It really brings out the grain of the wood. If you want a color change or just a darker piece, you can apply an appropriate wiping stain first.
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Good info guys, thanks. I'm going to try it on the pot lid holder that I'm going to make and also on my kitchen knife handles.
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I hate deceptive marketing. |
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French polish? |
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Was it Poplar that you want to use it on? the pot holder is going in a drawer someshere? I would use Olive oil because it is edable. Who knows what in the Tung oil. |
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It'll function similar to this. http://www.organizeit.com/images/multiusewh.jpg |
I know you want to put a large cove in the bottom, but would it be easier if you make it like the pic with a couple of stick. This way, the large pot lid will not bottom out on the cove.
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Get some Japan dryer from the art supply. Use a drop or 2 in your TO.
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If the lid is large enough, then for sure they will roll out when they bottom out. If you had a stick or wood high enough to create a open cavity, then there is no chane for the larger lids to bottom out and roll. Ask me how I know and got a yelling from my wife about what a crappy cabinet designer I am. Tell you the true, it is a PITA to get the lids out because the round handles usually get caught on the inside of the other lid sitting next the one you want. I ended up taking out a few just to get to the one I really want usually with a lot of bad language. Of course I say it silence. Wife's idea from a magazine and it doesn't really work. great spece saver that it true. Good luck and let us know how it turn out for you. |
funny this thread should come up - I'm in the process of putting tung oil on all of the interior doors in my house. of course, I'm using the cheaper Minwax version and not the real stuff. so far looks great, but stinks like crazy!
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