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Quote:
Originally Posted by rnln View Post
... and I have to do the same when reinstalling to tight it up to the similar torque?
No, you crank on it as hard as you can and call it good. The the bolt will tighten as the engine spins, not loosen.

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1980 911SC sunroof coupe, silver/black
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Old 04-24-2009, 12:37 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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Pazuzu,
Do you have to replace the cam's gaskets? I heard someone said I should. If I do, I have to pull the cam shaft. If I pull camshaft, I can't keep the position anymore, but have to know how to stuff the valve and rocker arms one by one.

Also, I found some kit but they are not OEM. All of them said "doesn't contain Hydrolic Tensioner". Do I need to replace hydrolic tensioner? Do you think the kit below is enough, beside the water pump?

W0133-1607693
Belt:13568-09050/29015; Idler:13503-62030; Tensioner/brng:13505-20010 This kit does NOT contain the hydraulic tensioner, 13540-20021. We do carry this separately.
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Old 04-25-2009, 12:55 AM
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On tensioner, do I have to replace the tnsioner or just the tensioner-bearing? I ask because I saw a kit come with the bearing only.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pazuzu View Post
Yes.


You need a new belt, new waterpump, new idler pulley, new tensioner, new seals, new gaskets. Yes, there should be a single standard kit for all of that. You won't need new pulleys unless you've been in an accident or something.

You'll WANT the spanner wrench to remove the cam pulleys, but it can be done without one. To remove the crankshaft bolt, get a 3/4 inch breaker bar and socket (22mm I think?). Pull the coil wire. Put socket on bolt, breaker bar pinned against the ground/frame. Crank engine for a second, it'll break the bolt loose (otherwise, you're looking at a 600+ ft/lb impact gun crammed in there)
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Old 04-27-2009, 09:30 PM
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If the tensioner fails it's just as bad as the timing belt breaking. When I do a timing belt I replace all of the idler pulleys, the tensioner, and water pump. Mitsubishi 4g63s are especially painful in this respect because all of that stuff adds up.
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Old 04-27-2009, 10:29 PM
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You can check the pulleys and tensioner for wear while your in there. Thing is, the parts are pretty cheap and if you need them and dont have them you are waiting on parts.

I usually only replace cam seals if they are leaking. Water pumps are 50/50, no reason to replace if its working and there is no place. But, if it fails in 3 months you get to do the job again. Thing is, you'll do it in half the time the 2nd time.
Old 04-28-2009, 05:19 AM
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Thanks for all info. I bought a kit with all parts and decided to do it myself, but changed my mind 2 seconds after getting on the floor. Well, one car is too much to DIY. I don't want to DIY all of my family cars. So I headed to the mechanic shop

Now time to do tranny/differential fluid/filter. Has anyone done these on 2000 Es300? I searched internet but it get confused around the years.

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Last edited by rnln; 06-28-2009 at 02:05 AM..
Old 06-27-2009, 07:56 PM
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