watch experts - Q about service

[ramonesfreak]

Ive got a question about servicing a watch. I have an Omega Speedmaster I bought new in 1999. Well finally about 2 years ago it stopped keeping time. Was actually running a bit fast every hour,even if reset throughout the day.

Im aware that such watches need routine maintenance. So, I took it to the dealer who sell's Omega locally. They told me they would have to send it to an authorized repair place in NYC. So, fine. It was free for the estimate so I had them send it.

When I got it back, I was told the watch needs a tune-up consisting of a clean and lube job and that the cost is $800 to perform this task

Well, thats 1/3 the cost of the watch brand new. I refuse to do this because I do not see how taking the back off, cleaning out the dust and squirting some oil in there can possibly cost $800. So, the watch sits in the drawer for 2 years and i rely on my cell phone for time and now I wish I never bought the dumb watch

What Im wondering is, can I just take it to a decent local watch repair place for a tune-up or is this job so specialized that the risk is not worth it?

Obviously skills will vary amongst jewelers, but have you been in this situation and just taken your watch to a local jeweler with good results or am I being stupid?

The reason I ask is, I think I can get someone local to do it for about $200, which I still think is ridiculous but better than $800

[vash]

i just had my TUDOR submariner done. it cost my $500, at one of the six factory blessed rolex repair shop worldwide. i am lucky to have one in san francisco. the man told me my watch has 2000 parts that need to be taken out, cleaned, lubed and reassembled. i dont think they just crack the back and blow a dust cleaner back there. it took 2 months, and now it keeps perfect time.

[VincentVega]

I found a local shop with a repair guy, so far so good. I had a similar estimate from 'the factory' to repair my Heuer. Ouch.

[ramonesfreak]

yea im quite sure they dont use a can of compressed air on it, but couldnt understand how a tune-up could amount to such a price given that a valve adjustment on my car costs half that

thanks

[rouxroux]

Scott, PM sent with info of a great Rolex/Tudor repairman.

[Danny_Ocean]

There are plenty of good watchmakers out there who can fix your Speedy (not the guy at the mall kiosk, though). Just have to ask around and find one who is good with Omega (you may have to send it out-of-area).

That being said, I'll gladly give you $800 for your Speedy as-is!

Post your question in the Omega Forum at www.timezone.com. You'll get a dozen suggestions within minutes.

[osidak]

I have a local guy (charlotte nc) - does excellent work and is very quick.

Last clean and oil service + remove any scratches from case and band on my Sub (16800) was 4 days and cost me $280. If you want kick me an email and I can send you his information.

You will pay more for yours though since it is a chronograph but no where near $800

[Porsche-O-Phile]

Does a 911 even have 2000 moving parts?

[javadog]

Originally Posted by Porsche-O-Phile

Does a 911 even have 2000 moving parts?

Easily, if you count all the little ones.

A chronograph has less than that, though. Still, a watch service is very time consuming, if done right. I'll offer two pieces of advice, having been a watch collector for 25 years.

1. I have yet to see an independent that was as good as a factory service center. I've tried everything from the local jewelers, the local independent watchmakers and the largest independent service facilities in the US. You may get lucky but I'll never waste my money again on anything that isn't factory, including those brands that I have to send overseas.

2. By going through a dealer, you are likely paying a markup. Contact the factory service center directly and see what price you get.

I probably average $500 per service on a watch, including refinishing of the case and band. If this is too much money for you to swallow, I suggest you sell the watch as-is.

JR

PS. One more thing. You'll likely find that Omega's US service facility will take a long time to service the watch. I've waited 4 months just to recieve pins for a bracelet. You may wish to ship it to Omega in Switzerland.

[Danny_Ocean]

Originally Posted by javadog

PS. One more thing. You'll likely find that Omega's US service facility will take a long time to service the watch. I've waited 4 months just to recieve pins for a bracelet. You may wish to ship it to Omega in Switzerland.

I've heard that too.

One more thing is, the factory will typically re-finish the watch to new condition, including polishing scratches out of the case/band. If you take your watch to a watchmaker, he'll typically only fix what's broken. So, you do get more value from your factory service. However, if the watch looks good and it's a "DD", a good watchmaker can get it running again.

[RPKESQ]

Proper servicing of a watch like an Omega is not a cheap " how taking the back off, cleaning out the dust and squirting some oil in there" operation.

let's look at what it entails:

Clean outer surface.
Using the correct tools and technique (to prevent scratches and damage) open the back (or front on some watches). Do not damage any part. That means no sign that you were ever in it!
Remove the stem (s).
Remove the movement spacer if present.
Remove the movement.
Remove the hands (so you can remove the dial face).
Remove dial face (these scracth and mar if you just look at them with out extreme care).
Release all spring tension from main spring (include minute repeater spring if required).
Remove chronograph funtion controls.
Remove 1st, 2nd, 3rd and in some cases 4th gear train and bridges.
Remove balance cock and spring.
Remove all remaining parts.
Use ultrasonic cleaning with a correct solution.
Dry and inspect parts with correct gauges and tooling.
Replace all worn parts or parts that are visible but faded (like dial).
Begin reassembly with extreme care not to lose or damage parts. "Fit" new parts.
During assembly lubbricate all required areas with the correct lubrication. (most watches of the Omega quality use up to 7 different types of lubrication, some of which cost up to $300 per 'cc".) Most lubrication points in a watch require a drop smaller than this (.). Too much and the watch will soon run too slow.
When movement is fully assembled test run on a timing device (most are over $2000).
Adjust as per manufactures specification (your Omega is tested and adjusted in 5 different positions and is temperture compensated).
Remove all case seals.
Ultrasonic case and braclet.
Refinish all external parts to new condition.
Replace all seals with new seals and lubricate.
Assemble watch completely.
Test for water resistance as per manufacturers specification with a pressure chamber (got on of those right?).
If it passed, congradulations! Now you only need to suffer customers hissy fit to finalize service.
Most of this work is carried out with 10x magnification, but often I use up to 40x to inpect bearings (jewels), pinions and pallets.

A fine mechanical watch is sort of like having a DiVinci masterpiece in a very small wearable package. Do not slight the maintainence requirements. That said there are some independant watch repairmen capable of this work (not many, but some, most highlevel watch factories end up training their own, due to the short supply).

Most high end mechanical watches have 300 to 500 parts. There are some (extremely few) with up to 2000 parts. I don't know of any production watches with more than 2000 parts (give or take 10%).

[jhynesrockmtn]

Beware the local guys, I know there are good ones out there, just get a good recommendation.

I had an atlantic mariner which is a smaller brand chronograph, valjoux 7750 movement. I bought it used in 2001 and it kept better time than my newer sub for several years. It started slowing down so I took it to a local certified watchmaker for service. $250 and it's never been right. I've taken it back several times only to be told over and over, keeps good time on our bench. It has no reserve and will periodically just lose minutes per day when fully wound.

Watch isn't worth more than $500 in good running shape, so I'm stuck with it in my drawer.

[ramonesfreak]

ok. thanks for all the good information.

do you think that an authorized dealer would take it upon themselves to touch up the face or at least clean the blue flake of paint that came of the face and is floating around? i hope so

[RPKESQ]

Originally Posted by srandallf

ok. thanks for all the good information.

do you think that an authorized dealer would take it upon themselves to touch up the face or at least clean the blue flake of paint that came of the face and is floating around? i hope so

No touch up is possible without it looking like a pimple the size of your fist on your nose. Yes the local yokels can clean out the paint flake.

[Rick Lee]

Just go on Timezone.com and find a reputable service place. My last Breitling overhaul ran $280 and I thought it was a pretty good deal, though a little irritated that it was necessary almost as soon as the warranty ran out.

[stuartj]

This is really a vexed question.

Skills with mechanical watches are scarce, hence the price to work on them is high. See RPKESQ’s list. A service is a disassembly and replace parts, all hand work by a watchmaker. If you don’t like it, buy a Casio, drive a Toyota -it’s the cost of ownership thing. I paid MORE for a repair to a vintage 1951 Seamaster than I paid for the watch because it was, IMO, worth saving. There are good local watchmakers- the problem is finding them, and then what recourse you have. I’ve had very a very bad experience with a small watchmaker who irreparably damaged a case. Ive also had a very expensive watch go missing in transit- that is another benefit of using authorised service. Much as I was annoyed to lose the watch, it was their problem. So obviously, keep shipping to a minimum.

Some people say watches should be serviced regularly. I service them when they stop. I’ve just had an IWC chronograph come back from factory service at the type of price you mention. When I got it back, it went straight back to them because it wasn’t right, which was disappointing. I suggest you go to Timezone, and see if anyone can recommend a service other than factory which is convenient for you. Otherwise, send it to the Auth Agent and suck it up…..

[Rick Lee]

FWIW, I had a Breitling Hercules that went back to Breitling 3-4 times in 6 mos. I was so irate with them, but it was under warranty, so I had go to them. My Sinn U2 took something like 8 wks. to get to Germany via registered air mail. I was chapped about that too. But again, under warranty, so I had to use them. I hear Sinn will soon be able to do argon capsule refills on their diving watches in the U.S.

[vash]

my watch came back blinging! new crystal, and full service tuneup. all the seals were replaced. paying the $500 made me learn to take care of my stuff. i treated it like crap up till now. now i pause to take it off before sticking my arm into any engine compartment. i used to sleep with it. one bad dream and a headboard, and the crystal is scratched.

[Sunroof]

I have a Tag Heuer Aquaracer automatic and its always 3 to 4 minutes slow each month. The watch shops claim that its inherent in automatic watches; in fact your lucky as they normally run 5 minutes slow on average! They all claim I should have it serviced as my warranty ran out several months ago, but its pricey through the dealer ($500.00).

Heck for that amount of money, I can live my life five minutes slower each month or invest in a Seiko Quartz for life and be just as happy!

Bob

[ramonesfreak]

4 minutes slow per month sounds normal

mine runs several minutes FAST every hour.