Is there an affordable torch that will cut off bolts?

[SpeedracerIndy]

I am tired of working on exhaust bolts. I am tired of skinning knuckles, and bruising my fingers. Is there a cheap torch kit that will work for cutting off bolts? I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars for something I'll only use a few times a year at the most. I just need a cutoff torch that I can use to cut off muffler bolts that you can't get to with a cutoff wheel or dremel, etc.

At present I have the rear bumper and wheel off of a 911 and was planning on swapping out the cat with a premuffler. Of course, the bolts have not been off ever, and have 22 years of corrosion. They don't even resemble bolts anymore, so I cannot get a wrench on them and of course vice grips won't fit in there (they'd probably just round the bolts anyway).

These are the times that I ask myself why the heck I do this as a hobby...

[VINMAN]

I have used this Bernzo-matic setup to burn off bolts. Not the most efficient or quickest, but its is cheap.

[SpeedracerIndy]

Really, that gets hot enough to burn them off? That look like it's worth a try. Where do you get it?

[legion]

Why not use an angle grinder? Less collateral heat...

[Zeke]

Cut them with a saw, grinder or cut off tool like a Dremel. Heat them with plumber's MAPP gas to break loose. Not much money invested there.

If you use an oxy/gas set up to cut nuts and bolts, you may very well cut into what they are holding.

[URY914]

4" Electric angle grinder with a 1/16" cutoff wheel is the cheapest and safest way to go.

[porsche4life]

There is very little that a cutoff wheel won't do.

[SpeedracerIndy]

I don't really care what happens to the metal surrounding the bolts because I'm replacing the cat. I've tried the MAPP gas. Problem is, the bolts do not resemble bolts anymore. They are almost completely round from years of corrosion and heat cycles. A wrench will just strip them because there is nothing to bite onto.

I have a 4" angle grinder, and there ain't no way that thing is fitting in the areas to get to all the bolts. Believe me, that was the first thing I tried after I skinned my knuckles the first time. I've exhausted (no pun intended!) my spacial geometry, and it cannot fit in there. I'm talking about the bolts that connect the cat to the heat exchangers and the ones that connect the cat to the muffler.

I guess I'll try the Dremmel, but it's such a pain in the A$$ changing those cutoff wheels every 2 minutes. I was hoping there was some cheap oxy acetylene torch I could buy to melt them off in a few minutes and save my knuckles.

I just need to sleep on it. I'm so damn frustrated because this was supposed to be a 2 hour job, which ended up taking my entire evening and I'm not even half way yet. And it's not even my car!!!

[legion]

I've used oxy-acetylene for cutting. It will still cut material a foot behind what you are cutting, and still damage metal three feet behind.

[Tishabet]

Originally Posted by milt

If you use an oxy/gas set up to cut nuts and bolts, you may very well cut into what they are holding.

+1

I own the full-on oxy/acetylene rig, and the technique/style of torch you use for cutting metal does not really discriminate... everything within about a 3 inch radius of what you are cutting is going to receive an impressive amount of heat, even if the actual cutting flame is relatively small. I have been in the same position as you on more than one occasion, and I have always gone with the drilling/dremel method.

If you're just looking for some "blue hammer" I would stick to a propane torch and a good pair of vice grips.

[legion]

Just use a phased plasma rifle in the 40-watt range.

[SpeedracerIndy]

Dremmel it is, along with a good night of sleep to ease the frustration and let the wounds heal. I think I'll pick up one of those flexible extended shafts for my Dremmel too. Thanks for all the advice folks.

[sailchef]

Originally Posted by porsche4life

There is very little that a cutoff wheel won't do.

I agree. Those little dremmel cutting disc are not hefty enough to last the duration.
I've had to do the same thing in the past and remembered that I was working from under the car to reach the tight areas. You need to get comfortable while your under there and have patience.

[VINMAN]

A pneumatic die grinder with a cutoff wheel works wonders too. Small enough to get into some tight spots. Matter of fact, just used it this weekend to knock of a frozen nut on my Mercury.

One like this, although i use the angle die grinder mostly

.



That Bernzomatic setup has a real pinpoint flame on it, so it is pretty easy to concentrate the heat in one spot. Its not the best setup and wont work on anything real thick or hefty but it has helped me in a pinch.

[Tishabet]

I have used a battery powered drill to "hollow out" and crush the studs on exhaust systems with some success... you need the room to get the drill in there, though. I have replaced my 944 exhaust twice with this method.

[rick-l]

Originally Posted by milt

If you use an oxy/gas set up to cut nuts and bolts, you may very well cut into what they are holding.

I watched the guy at the muffler shop burn off nuts without damaging the threads on the bolt with a torch. Once the cutting starts the Acetylene flame is not necessary.

[widebody911]

Originally Posted by SpeedracerIndy

Dremmel it is, along with a good night of sleep to ease the frustration and let the wounds heal. I think I'll pick up one of those flexible extended shafts for my Dremmel too. Thanks for all the advice folks.

Dremel has a new reinforced cutting wheel with a quick-release mandrel - these are the shiz. http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ406-Cut-Off-Mandrel-Cutting/dp/B000FBLRVA

The diamond wheels are pricey, but work well
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Y4ZTFS/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=304485901&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00004UDI9&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=05HT60SXJS1PFS3RHHZP

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by porsche4life

There is very little that a cutoff wheel won't do.

It does not do assembly

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by rick-l

Once the cutting starts the Acetylene flame is not necessary.

Really? Well how 'bout that?!

I too have successfully cut away a nut or 2 thousand without damaging a flange, etc. But the OP wanted out cheap and I thought pointing out that the flame feather of an oxy/gas torch was almost as tough to angle in tight places as an angle grinder and not heat and melt something you don't want to.


Frankly, at $300 or so for a small set up, I think all weekend mechanics should have a torch. As has been posted a hundred times before, once you have one, you will find dozens of uses for it.

Still, it may not be the best tool in the hands of an amateur under a car in a tight spot.

[porsche4life]

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera

It does not do assembly

Hey I am into demolition. Not assembly.