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MIG Welding. Any tips?
I was given a small Miller 135 wire feed welder by the material handling guys at work for use in my shop/classroom.
I have been experimenting with it for a few hours when I can spare some time and the thing I have the most trouble with is seeing the puddle. I have done a fair amount of stick welding in the past, but seeing by that large tip on the MIG handle is tough to do. Any tips on this?
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Bill K. "I started out with nothin and I still got most of it left...." 83 911 SC Guards Red (now gone) And I sold a bunch of parts I hadn't installed yet. |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: N. Phoenix AZ USA
Posts: 28,943
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Push the wire out a bit and make sure that you have the gas coming out of the tip enough to flood the weld area.
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2013 Jag XF, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB |
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MAGA
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 10,776
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If you can't see, maybe you need a lighter welding mask glass.
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UnRegistered User
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It is not so much seeing through the tint as being obstructed by the tip itself. I did install a 1.5 magnifying lens inside the helmet. That might help a bit too, I haven't tried it yet.
It is very possible that it is just positioning, but where (except on a bench or fab table) do you actually get to easily see your work without some sort of body contortionist exercise? I tried a bit of angle iron, did a few lap joints and some sheet metal. with the low setting for the sheet metal and the slow wire feed maybe I am too close in.
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Bill K. "I started out with nothin and I still got most of it left...." 83 911 SC Guards Red (now gone) And I sold a bunch of parts I hadn't installed yet. |
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Formerly reformed
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Rutherfordton NC
Posts: 2,424
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Your angle may be off. I usually hold it around 45 degrees depending on what type of joint I'm looking for and what direction I'm moving in.
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,179
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Theres an easy solution-
scrap the MIG, get a TIG. ![]()
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Formerly reformed
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Rutherfordton NC
Posts: 2,424
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I neglected to mention that the helmet does play a major part here, especially for people who haven't been doing this for a decade. I'm using a Speedglas auto-darkening helmet- it's the best one I have used to date and has really improved my welding in terms of both effectiveness and efficiency.
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Nanny State
Posts: 3,132
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In a way it sounds as if you're trying to weld material thinner than in intended (although it is a 135), or most likely your wire speed is too slow and you're feeling the need to keep the tip really close to the workpiece. Try experimenting with upping the speed a bit so you can hold the torch back from the work 1/2". Also check the feed rollers in the unit to make sure the wire is not slipping or anything is obstructing the feed.
When I weld material say 3/16"-1/4" thick, I drop my left index finger under the torch towards the back of the tip using the outside edge of my left hand to steady the torch, run the torch with my right hand and push the weld, seeing above it clear as day. Hope that makes sense... When you have a good weld bead going- 2 things: 1) you should see the heat on the back side of the part when you flip it over, 2) it should sound like sizzling bacon when you weld.
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1980 911 SC
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Not trying to be a smart a$$, but this reminds me of an interesting moment. I couldn't see worth a hoot when I got my Miller 140. Turns out my helmet was filthy, after cleaning the lense all was better.
Instead of looking over the top of the tip, IIRC, I look at it from the side.
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
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Chief has got it. Keep the angle of the torch at optimum, about 30 degrees from vertical, and look in from the side. Most welders "push" the puddle while MIG welding, so if you can lean over to the front and side, you should see all you need to see.
The motion, or weave pattern you use will also help. There may be instants that the puddle is obscured by the gas nozzle on the torch, but you should see the tip of the wire as it deposits in the puddle most of the time. I like a short stick out and I have a couple of nozzles that have been modified with the band saw so I can get in there and still see. You may want to shorten your nozzle a bit and see if it still surrounds the puddle with gas. If there is much air movement near the weld, it gets harder to run a good bead. Or, you can switch over to wire feed with no gas and flux core to practice. More splatter, but same principles. The wire feed nozzle is much smaller; it's just a protector. |
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UnRegistered User
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I was able to burn a bit more wire this morning.
The magnifying lens and moving to the side seemed to help a bit. I think getting wire speed and voltage settings correct for the material being worked is an experience thing that will get better with time. They have a free seat program for instructors so I will have to make contact with the weldors here and see if I can sit in for a few sessions.
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Bill K. "I started out with nothin and I still got most of it left...." 83 911 SC Guards Red (now gone) And I sold a bunch of parts I hadn't installed yet. |
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Cogito Ergo Sum
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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I've 4 years experience TIG welding thin wall (.032") alloy steel upright structures and space frames...
I can't stand not having that sort of control over the welding process. And for thin tube and sheet structures there is no alternative.
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Novice welders tend to go too fast. That was my problem for sure when I was doing stick. Fusion is a balance between not enough penetration and burning through. At least AFA sheet goods go. If you have a tendency to burn through, don't speed up, turn the current down, poke the wire in closer and/or use a bit more angle.
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