installing new stair treads, procedure question/poll

[masraum]

This is more of a procedure question.

We've removed the carpet from our stairs. The stair treads are just crappy 2x12 or however wide they are. We are planning to replace the treads with new treads because we'd like to get the stained tread, painted riser look similar to this


My wife was planning to stain and then clear coat the new treads and then let me put them down because that would be easiest for her.

I don't think that'll be a good idea because I'll be nailing the new treads in. Then the finish will have to be fixed.

I figure we have 4 options. Which do you think is best and why?

1 Stain and clear coat treads. Nail them down, repair countersunk holes, restain and clear coat spots where nails live. Paint risers whenever

2 Stain treads. nail them down and use a stainable wood putty on recessed nail heads, restain, then clear, then paint risers.

3 Install new stair treads. fix nail heads, stain and then clear treads. Later paint risers

4 Other, you tell me.

Thanks

[look 171]

#3. You might have to scribe both ends to fit then putty, sand, stain and finish. The following would be my second choice. You can pre fit it first then pre-stain and finish. Fill hole, spot stain (make sure you wipe off stain completely on the finish) and refinish the whole thing.

[Mr.Puff]

It's much easier to do the finishing once! Plus you are guaranteed that the stain will match.

[Rot 911]

Originally Posted by look 171

#3. You might have to scribe both ends to fit then putty, sand, stain and finish. The following would be my second choice. You can pre fit it first then pre-stain and finish. Fill hole, spot stain (make sure you wipe off stain completely on the finish) and refinish the whole thing.

This.

[masraum]

My personal vote is for option 3. It'll probably be the biggest pain as far as the staining and clear coat phase, but I don't think it would be good to finish them first, then try to put them down without screwing up the finish, and finally try to match the finish after the fact.

[look 171]

the finish will never match. You can't except the putty to match the actual wood. It just not going to happen. #3 is the way the pro's do it. The biggest pain in the rear is to not get stain on the finish walls. Painting should be last, bacause that can be wipe off quickly assuming it is water based paint.

Jeff

[Zeke]

Whichever method you do, always stain and put sealer on before puttying nail holes. If you get the right color putty, you will never see it. Puttying after the first coat keeps the putty from smearing into the grain and leaving a light spot.

Depending on the choice of wood, I sometimes use 2-3 colors of putty. The darker goes in the soft grain where the stain is darker and so on. I've even been known to "streak" my putty when a hole is on the edge of light and dark grain. I will do this at eye level.

Do what is easy for your wife. I'd have t agree that staining the overhang on the treads over paint would be tedious.

[turbo6bar]

Just brainstorming here, but can you get under the stairs? Could you remove the drywall and fasten the treads from beneath? Fabricate brackets from angle iron, predrill, and fasten to the stringers. Then, cut treads to template, prefinish, fasten treads from beneath, and then refinish drywall. A decent drywall guy could rehang and finish drywall faster than you could finish the treads in place. Sucks to be the future guy who has to rip out the treads that are screwed down, though.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by look 171

the finish will never match. You can't except the putty to match the actual wood. It just not going to happen. Painting should be last, bacause that can be wipe off quickly assuming it is water based paint.

Jeff

Right, putty sucks, but what are you gonna do.

Originally Posted by turbo6bar

Just brainstorming here, but can you get under the stairs? Could you remove the drywall and fasten the treads from beneath? Fabricate brackets from angle iron, predrill, and fasten to the stringers. Then, cut treads to template, prefinish, fasten treads from beneath, and then refinish drywall. A decent drywall guy could rehang and finish drywall faster than you could finish the treads in place. Sucks to be the future guy who has to rip out the treads that are screwed down, though.

I just put a closet under the stairs, all new drywall. I hate drywall. Hahah. I could probably manage most of them, but the bottom 1 or 2 treads would be impossible to get at from underneath (no clearance). I'd thought of that. It would be nice if there was nothing through the top. Yes, I wouldn't want to be the guy to have to take them out later.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by milt

Whichever method you do, always stain and put sealer on before puttying nail holes. If you get the right color putty, you will never see it. Puttying after the first coat keeps the putty from smearing into the grain and leaving a light spot.

Depending on the choice of wood, I sometimes use 2-3 colors of putty. The darker goes in the soft grain where the stain is darker and so on. I've even been known to "streak" my putty when a hole is on the edge of light and dark grain. I will do this at eye level.

Do what is easy for your wife. I'd have t agree that staining the overhang on the treads over paint would be tedious.

Interesting. Good point about staining the bottom of the overhangs! We are using solid white pine treads with a pine veneer. The stain that she's using is quite dark. This seems like good info. The plan was to stain, then cover with a polyurethane or polycrylic clear coat. I'm basically a woodworking idiot compared to you, so are you saying that I should use a stain, then a sealer (sanding sealer or something like that) and then a clear coat? Or am I misunderstanding? Thanks for chiming in.

[look 171]

Then reason for the sealer is to prevent the putty to get onto the flat area of the lumber. Ideally, the putty should be apply only into the nail hole, most people just smear the putty on with a putty knife and that will cause it to get over into the grain of the wood. That will stain lighter and it will read. You can see the difference.

How about screw and plug. Match grain and a little putty,and you would have to get close to see the plug.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by look 171

Then reason for the sealer is to prevent the putty to get onto the flat area of the lumber. Ideally, the putty should be apply only into the nail hole, most people just smear the putty on with a putty knife and that will cause it to get over into the grain of the wood. That will stain lighter and it will read. You can see the difference.

Right, I've made that mistake once, never again. I'll be painting that piece before too long.

How about screw and plug. Match grain and a little putty,and you would have to get close to see the plug.[/QUOTE]

I've thought about that. I think I even have the bit to drill the plugs. I've never tried it though. I do prefer screws to nails for just about anything but drywall.

[tharbert]

I vote #1 - BTDT

Fit each tread and complete final sand
stain and finish - I prefer hard wearing satin polyurethane...
Cut your filler with some of your stain...goal is to get it close to the right color
--You can also get colored filler too
Predrill for your nails
Hammer nails down to the head and use punch to sink below flush
Apply filler and stain to match - I used a Q-tip
Lightly sand flush with ~400 grit
Put on final full coat of polyurethane

Personally, I would use a hardword. White pine is, IMHO, too soft for treads. Veneers may not hold up to the daily pounding. +1 hard maple or oak. I like alder.

BTW, in the staircase picture, the finished wood looks like maple...

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by masraum

.........................so are you saying that I should use a stain, then a sealer (sanding sealer or something like that) and then a clear coat? Or am I misunderstanding? Thanks for chiming in.

Yes. You can't sand after staining, only before and only after it's sealed. And then, you don't want to sand to th point that you remove color. Sanding after the sealer and using a finish coat over uber vacuumed and tack rag preparation should yield a glass like finish, even if it's semi-gloss.