Single stage reloading presses - educate me

[aigel]

Ok, so I shoot every now and then, no heavy use, but I was wondering what it would take to get into reloading. Not to save money but to experiment with different loads and to be able to load up non lead "Condor" ammo. I would like to reload anything from a large magnum rifle caliber down to a pistol round. I did a bit of reading but would like to hear your much valued input:

- Single stage should be okay for me. Not interested in loading more than a few hundred rounds a year. Right?
- What dies do I get? The cheaper ones or the harder ones that don't require lube?
- Is there a good kit out there that you recommend for the starter?
- Where do I buy? Used equipment okay? I.e. those presses look like they last a lifetime and should be avaliable used?

Thanks!

George

[Rick Lee]

I wouldn't go with a single stage, but then I shoot a lot. I had a single stage press and like reloading. But I would do it now more for the economy of scale and not for the hobby. RCBS makes just about everything you need. Get a good primer tool, powder measure, scale, press, dies, lube and you're good to go. Only think I really miss about it is making super cheap SWC loads, which punch perfectly round holes in paper.

[aigel]

Is RCBS a good company to go with? How about the hornady line of tooling?

I shoot more rifles than pistols, so I don't need thousands of rounds like a semi-auto guy.

Thanks,

George

[legion]

I reload with a single-stage press. (And a turret press, and two progressive presses.)

I think it's fine for occasional use. Be careful, a single-stage press is like a gateway drug to a progressive press.

Lee dies and a Lee press are a good place to start. Single-stages are pretty rock solid. You can be out the door for around $100 with a press and one set of dies.

Be careful with older presses. They may still work fine, but the die sizes were not standardized. They need to be 10 years old or newer. Dies work between all brands of modern presses (unless you get into stuff bigger than .50), but the shell plates do not. Lee shell plates work with Lee presses, RCBS shell plates work with RCBS presses, etc. To make things simplest, just buy the same brand of dies and press.

You will also need a scale. I have a nice Lyman automatic dispensing digital scale (paid around $300 for it). It's nice for this kind of reloading. You can get a decent digital (without the automatic dispenser) for under $100.

Good brands: Lee, Dillon, Lyman, RCBS, Hornady.

Bad Brands: Smart Reloader. DO NOT BUY THIS CRAP!

Oh, and you MUST use case lube of rifle cases, but not on handguns cases.

[vash]

i think single stage is perfect for rifle. maybe not .223 or something high volume. but if you are tinkering with making your own special bullets, angling for accuracy. single stage is key. i did it for years, and i measured each powder load, and funneled it into each case one by one.

i had a cheap LEE press with decent RCBS dies. you really dont want to use a progressive press when making your voodoo ammo. not precise enough.

[Jeff Higgins]

If I were just starting today, I would peruse the Midway catalog or web site for one of the complete reloading kits from RCBS, Hornady, Lyman, or Lee. In that order. As a matter of fact, that is exactly how I started reloading 30 years ago. I got the complete RCBS kit that included the press, scale, priming tool, powder measure. and other doo-dads. I still use every bit of it today. While I have since purchased a myriad of other measures, scales, and other such equipment, that single stage press is still the only press I have ever owned. It has now loaded over a quarter million rounds of various (actually, quite varied) rounds of ammunition. I don't think a guy can wear one out...

The single stage press is by far the most versatile, and the only way, really, to load magnum rifle rounds. A Lee "turret" press might be o.k., but certainly none of the progressive presses. The progressives really do excel at the pistol and revolver rounds, so maybe someday you will find yourself using one, but you will still need that single stage for the larger rifle rounds, and the stick powders typically used in them.

For straight wall pistol and revolver reloading, absolutely get carbide dies. The time and mess they save are well worth the little premium when purchasing. And don't worry about mixing and matching presses / dies / shell holders between brands - all modern stuff is standardized. Dies are about the only area where I will buy Lee equipment - their dies are on a par with the more expensive ones from the other manufacturers. I stay away from their other stuff, though.

Used presses are certainly o.k., and a lot of guys make the mistake of selling theirs off when they "upgrade" to a progressive, so they can be found for next to nothing. That said, buying one of the complete set-ups will still be cheaper than buying a used press and piecing everything else together. You get that good of a break when buying the kits. Don't buy used dies. Cared for, they last forever, but if they are not, they can be the "wear item" in this operation. Best to be safe and buy new.

So, in a nutshell, if it were me, I would buy a complete RCBS kit from Midway and be off to the races. Get the dies you need for the calibers you shoot, and you're in business.

[aigel]

Thanks guys. Looks like the hornady kits are similar in price to the RCBS.

How about this:
RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Single Stage Press Master Kit - MidwayUSA

There is a $50 mail in rebate.

Let me know what you think. Maybe you can help me complete my shopping list including the dies and holders! I'd actually start with .223 that I'd like to set up for Pb free bullets for hunting.

G

[emcon5]

Excellent choice. I started out with a cheap Lee kit, and ended up buying essentially that whole kit, piece by piece over the next few years, and a much higher price.

As to how RCBS is as a company, I had to call them about 2 weeks ago because I couldn't find a small part for my 10 year old hand primer.

Originally Posted by Nice RCBS Customer Servie Lady

That will be no charge sir, we will get that out to you early next week

RCBS Rocks.

As to dies, not sure what you are shooting, but for a semi auto rifle, it is hard to go wrong with the standard set from RCBS.

If you are loading for a bolt rifle, and only one rifle per caliber, I am actually partial to the Lee Collet dies. They just size the neck, so your brass lasts longer, and the cases are fire-formed to your chamber. The problem is, chambers are not always exactly the same, so if it is fired in/neck sized in one rifle, they may not work in another.

Most dies come with the shell holder. The only thing to be aware of is the RCBS priming tool uses the shell holder, and there is a chance it won't work with holders from other manufacturers. Mine has been fine so far, with the exception of the Lee 40 S&W shell holder. Every other Lee holder has worked so far, so it may not be that common a problem. If it is, a RCBS shell holder is only another $9.

[aigel]

Great info emcon5. Semi auto on the .223 and only a single rifle, so I'll stay with the RCBS. For the bolt action rifles I'll look into the Lee Collet dies!

G

[aigel]

One more question: How important is it to polish cases? Is a case tumbler necessary?

G

[mossguy]

G,
I have heard both yes and no on the case tumbling. I reload .45 APC, 38 special, .380 APC, and soon .40 S&W and 9mm. I have a Harbor Freight Tumbler that I was using for car parts with walnut shells and it works just fine on brass cases. Besides, I like the way they look. I am attracted to shiny things.

Best,
Tom

[lm6y]

I've heard Dillon's are junk, and will get you killed.

[azasadny]

I have a Lyman Spar-T turret press that I've used to reload approx. 35,000 rounds (rifle and pistol) over the past 2 1/2 years. Actually, i have 3 of these presses installed on my reloading bench and I'm very happy with them. I use Lee Precision dies, Lyman Turbo Tumbler, Lyman digital scale, etc... and an old powder measurer that I bought at a gun show. for about $500-$1000, you can buy everything you need to start reloading. Reloading is my "winter hobby" and it keeps me busy and makes the cold, winter nights fly by as I'm always working on something. Lee has kits that included everything you need to reload, except the "consumables" (brass, bullets, primer and powder).

My next step will be to buy a Dillon progressive press to increase my volume. but the single stage, turret-style press is a good, safe way to start and really learn the process.

[legion]

Case tumbling?

It's a personal preference. The vibratory tumblers really only clean the outside of the cases, so it's mostly an aesthetic thing.

Now for the microscopically anal, get yourself an ultrasonic cleaner. It will clean the whole case (with the right cleaning solution). I always deprime before cleaning--primer pockets get dirty too. Hornady has a decent one for around $80, but you can find it for cheaper on Amazon (without the Hornady brand on it).

If you are shooting bottle-necked rifle cases, they will stretch every time you fire them. You will need to invest in case trimming equipment. I recommend the Hornady Cam-Lock unit for precision trimming, and the Lee zip trimmer for "good enough" plinking ammo.

Oh, and some other miscellaneous things...

You might consider a flash hole deburring tool (I use one from Lyman) for precision loads. It creates a little cone around the flash hole so that any metal burrs don't block/retard ignition from the primer. Gives more consistent ignition to your brass. I skip this for plinking loads.

And finally, consider getting a crimp remover if you want to shoot military brass.

[emcon5]

If all you are going to be shooting is .223 from an auto loader, I wouldn't screw with brass prep at all.

Go here: Products

Buy yourself 500 or 1000 rounds of fully processed once fired military brass, and call it good.

You don't have to screw with case lube. You don't have to screw with crawling around on the ground scrounging cases, you don't have to screw with uniforming, trimming, primer crimp removing, etc.

Just run them though a neck sizer to uniform the mouths from any shipping dings, prime, charge and load.

And when you shoot them, leave them where they fall, because you have plenty.

As to polishing, I will say no, that is not necessary. Cleaning is absolutely necessary, as any grit on the case can get in the dies, and you don't want that. A tumbler is a good way to do that from a simplicity standpoint, throw the cases in, turn it on and walk away. There are other ways to clean brass, a web search will turn up a bunch of opinions.

Also, how much prep you do, largely depends on the application. If I am loading long range ammo, I will do prep the cases pretty extensively, clean the primer pockets, inside/outside chamfer and all that.

If I am loading some blasting ammo for a milsurp Mauser, I don't bother.

One of these days I need to do a blind test, load up 20 rounds with all the anal case prep, and 20 rounds without and have my wife box them up without telling me which is which. See if I can tell the difference.

[vash]

i polish all my brass. it cleans the inside as well as the outside.

[Rednine11]

I am also looking for a press for my 50 BMG
I have only found single stage presses. It takes a special press because the cases are so much bigger.

[azasadny]

Dillon makes a nice .50BMG press. The largest cartridge I've reloaded was a 7mm Remington Magnum. The complete cartridge was 4 inches tall!

[emcon5]

Originally Posted by Rednine11

It takes a special press because the cases are so much bigger.

Thanks for clearing that up.

[legion]

I have the Lee .50 BMG press. It was around $180 with dies.

The Dillon "Big 50" will run you around $1000, plus more for accessories. Of course, the Dillon is a progressive 50 BMG. Unless you have a Ma Deuce, it's probably overkill.