CAT 6 DIY - punchdown tool needed?

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

do I need to buy a punchdown tool to install the connectors onto CAT-6 cable?

if not, any suggestions for the best way to do it for a secure install?

the connectors are RJ-45 IIRC...

Joe Bob · Joe Bob's Garage

Platinum Tools, 706BR-1, EZ-SnapJack Cat 6, Brown, 10 PC, Bulk Bag

This implies, no.....

id10t · 04-09-2011, 11:44 AM

The jacks come w/ a little tool... if you have a few to do, skip buying - if you have lots to do, buy the tool. You may want a crimper for making patch cables.

slodave · slodave's Garage

You can always think outside of the box too. I've come up with many little punch tools in a pinch.

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

ok, solved - UNFORTUNATELY.... question #2

when do I use T568A vs. B ???

the wire pinouts differ for green and orange

from some stuff I searched up, I just need to be consistent (on the ends of each cable) but using "A" is best - true?

MysticLlama · 04-09-2011, 12:25 PM

For Data, always use B.

Shouldn't need a tool if you buy a 10 pack of jacks.

Always use machine made cables, and only punch down jacks, don't get a crimper and make your own cables.

TheMentat · TheMentat's Garage

An old credit card will work in a pinch.

968rz · 968rz's Garage

I've used a one sided razor blade to punch down Cat 6 into a phone box, worked good.

gr8fl4porsche · gr8fl4porsche's Garage

I make all my own cables, patch cords - everything in my home and work network. I use the B standard but have always heard it really doesn't matter - ends just have to match.

I found the 3 piece ends with the little slip on collar work well. I use a stripping tool and crimping tool from the Depot that works very well. For punching down into a phone jack I also use a cheap tool from HD that works great.

Just finished installing about 14 cat-6 ends last couple of weeks.

Best tip I found is to strip about 2.5 inches of casing as it makes the unwinding and straightening of the wires much easier. Get them in the right order and perfectly straight and flat and your connections will work great the first time.

Wish I could report that I never cut off a freshly installed end but we all make mistakes.

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

here is one thing I found re A vs B

T568A and T568B Wiring Schemes -- What's the Difference? - Control Cable, Inc.

nobody sez why...

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

some sources say A cables can be connected to B cables; but others say you need a crossover cable to do it...

MysticLlama · 04-09-2011, 03:14 PM

As long as the jacks are the same on both ends and the cables are the same on both ends, then yeah, it'll work. The way the pairs are set up on B is theoretically slightly better at high speed, but it's nothing tangible enough to matter in a home network.

But since 99% of all pre-made cables you buy are 568B, why not just be consistent.

Radioactive · 04-09-2011, 03:48 PM

Why would you make patch cords? It's cheaper to buy them. (machine made and tested)

You only punch down jacks and patch panels, 110 tool is all you need.

Don't untwist to much, just enough to punch it down.

If you are stuck and have to put a connector on a cable. There are two types of connectors one for stranded cable and one for solid cable.

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

B it is - thx

gr8fl4porsche · gr8fl4porsche's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Radioactive

Why would you make patch cords? It's cheaper to buy them.

When you are pulling cables for a network, I can't imagine trying to do it with a connector on the end. Now for a standard 3-6' patch cord - pre-made are great. But when you have a box of wire and ends - you make your own.

MysticLlama · 04-09-2011, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gr8fl4porsche

When you are pulling cables for a network, I can't imagine trying to do it with a connector on the end. Now for a standard 3-6' patch cord - pre-made are great. But when you have a box of wire and ends - you make your own.

Yep, and you keep doing that until the 3rd or 4th time one of your employees does a couple with slightly crossed pins that mess up a whole network and take forever to troubleshoot.

After that, everytime you see a homemade cable you cut it in half and chuck it. Same for any pre-made cable that's even remotely questionable.

Jacks/ Patch Panels are different, they go together different mechanically and are much harder to screw up.

If you want it to work reliably, the first time, and over time, you pull the fixed wiring (often solid), to patch panels or keystone jacks on the ends, and use pre-made cables (stranded) for the final 3-10', or more if that's what it takes.

So not saying *you* can't do them successfully.

But that's why I never recommend it.

911pcars · 04-09-2011, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Radioactive

Why would you make patch cords? It's cheaper to buy them. (machine made and tested)

You only punch down jacks and patch panels, 110 tool is all you need.

Don't untwist to much, just enough to punch it down.

If you are stuck and have to put a connector on a cable. There are two types of connectors one for stranded cable and one for solid cable.

And the suppliers say there's less signal loss using solid cable (for interior wall connections) compared to stranded cable which is usually used for patch cables. That right? How critical? I need a total length of about 100 feet, about 25' of which runs through wall cavities. Can I run stranded patch cables all the way through with shielded Cat6 inline keystone connectors or is that 25' length critical enough to warrant solid cable for that stretch?

Sorry for the high jack, but I thought perhaps related.

Sherwood