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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,134
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A/C schraeder valve question...
On the suction line from the compressor to evaporator, the schraeder valve seems to be low in the port making it hard to hook up the gauges or charge. I've installed two new valves, but with no results. I did solder on a small dot to raise it up, but the results were marginal. It just doesn't seem to get depressed enough to charge the system.
Any ideas, short of replacing the line? EDIT: I've tried 90* adapters, etc. but they hit the hood. 
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07-24-2011, 10:28 AM
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Just thinking out loud
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Close by
Posts: 6,884
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Take the valve out, install a 134a (SNAP) fitting and get a can tap that punctures the side of the can. There are adjustable can taps that have plastic spacers you use depending on the size of the can.
It'll cause some consternation for anyone that has intentions of hooking up to your system, but I like it that way. If they jack with my system(s) I'll know and they will contaminate their refrigerant. IIRC, your thread size is 7/16th, but it might be 5/16ths.
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83 944 91 FJ80 84 Ram Charger (now gone) Last edited by mattdavis11; 07-24-2011 at 11:17 AM.. |
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07-24-2011, 11:04 AM
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Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
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I've tried that, but all types of fittings hit the bottom of the hood (S) or hood hinge (D).
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07-24-2011, 12:11 PM
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Just thinking out loud
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Close by
Posts: 6,884
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Couldn't tell if you had a 134 fitting on there or not.
If it was mine, and it's been a pain in the arse to charge, I'd remove the line, fix the leak, cut off the R12 fitting and braise in a snap if no other options work. Any a/c shop can do it, you probably can, given the right equipment. Make sure to check the weld in a vat before you put it back on. As a given, flush out the residuals in the line too, add a bit of oil when charging. Looking at it again, is the line rubbing on the strut tower? If so, you might have a missing grommet that ties it to the unibody. The line is flexible at the compressor, but I can't remember if the low side line had a union, or if it's one piece. You could put a different manifold plate on your 10PA17C if you want to read the pressures at the compressor, but I d be willing to bet you'd have to rework the S and D lines.
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83 944 91 FJ80 84 Ram Charger (now gone) Last edited by mattdavis11; 07-24-2011 at 06:38 PM.. |
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07-24-2011, 05:32 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
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Good thoughts. Thanks.
The line has a flex hose at the compressor and then is a hardline to a union near the firewall. Not sure how much flex there is, but I can check tomorrow. I'll look into an AC shop to see what they can do. I gave a mig welder, but I'm just learning. Push comes to shove, I can go for the new line from Pelican for $100. Cheap me just wants to save a buck. |
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07-24-2011, 05:48 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
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seems like i was having that problem not long ago. i went and bought new parts that go in the end of the hose.
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07-25-2011, 03:55 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,134
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Went to a shop today. They can make me new one with the port relocated for $40 using some of my old hardline and fittings.
I'm going to look at the manifold gauge hoses again, just to rule them out. |
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07-25-2011, 04:00 PM
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