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Nice interview by PT with a long time friend of mine........
https://www.facebook.com/ECSHOF/videos/1292886322151218 |
Owl Chapman - matador stance at Pipe, 1983.....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758577543.jpg |
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I did get some surf sessions in.....but for reals.....not at Teahupo'o! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761840649.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761840649.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761840649.jpg |
I'm not a surfer but my family is from Portugal.
My memories of my first visit there as a kid are watching them pull fish nets in with oxen and the number of fishing widows. To see it transform into a surfing mecca is fascinating. |
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"Big Wednesday" was on (of all networks) TCM a couple weeks ago late at night. I have the DVD but watched anyway. I've gone back and forth in my mind as to what the best surf movie is of all time, and many a time I thought this was it. Not necessarily because of the surfing footage, which isn't anything compared to others, but because of the story and the actors in it. Directed by John Milius ("Conan the Barbarian") it speaks to the fellowship of the wave slider community. A lot of life philosophy there. The late Bill Delaney's "Free Ride" is also up there in my rankings. This clip with some of the best soundtrack ever for surfing footage...... <iframe width="606" height="404" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/E5rNvQtLGQo" title="フリーライド ZERO TO SIXTY IN FIVE" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
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