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Waves
Living in south Florida we only have decent waves a few times a year ....a swell..during the winter...rest of the time we get small blown out chop...past 3 days though...hurricane Irene turned the wind off shore and Thursday nite before dark was 8-10 and yesterday was 5-6 as good as it gets
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All right Mike5876, got to love those hurricane swells, usually the best surf of the year.
Got to pull out that 7'6". Hope you got some good ones. I grew up surfing Brevard county, and lifeguarding in Satellight Bch. Always looked forward to the surf potential of hurricane season. (Don't let Vinman or skytrooper hear ya). The surfers stoked and getting the waves of the year, every one else is worrying and hating life, funny! Cheers Richard |
Woot!!!
Photos of me at my home break in Florida. Warm water and good times..... http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photo...25585_2097.jpg http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photo...25586_2318.jpg http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photo...25587_2523.jpg http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photo...25588_2719.jpg http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photo...25589_2917.jpg http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3441782_n.jpg Surfing is a way of life - truly. Best advice on improving your skills - get a surfin' buddy and make a pact to go out every day no matter what. Also - find a board maker who knows what he's doing and get your boards from him. In fact - try to buy his old boards when he's done with them. Still stoked ~ Baz |
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Actually, a guy a few doors along who is much older than 37 and VERY unfit said he wanted to take up surfing. I didn't want to be a killjoy and tell him it's not going to happen. BUT, I have to eat my words (thoughts) in one year he has got to be quite good. And he goes out a lot so he is one step ahead of me. |
Very active surfer and snowboarder here from long beach ca. Ive been surfing off and on for 20 years and snowboarding every season for the last 15.
Huntington is great for a beginner when its smaller and on the right tides its not a heavy break at all, in fact tomorrow looks really fun, i'll be out! If it gets too big in huntington head north to seal beach, lots of longboarders flock here as its way more mellow. During the summer big south swells make the river jetties on the north side break and its so much fun, winter time north side pier is fun on the better nw swells. Just be aware that there are lots of stingrays here because of the warm water from the power plant, maybe beware of radiocactive water, haha! Just got back from a trip to indonesia, all i can say is wow! Go here if you can, epic surf everyday!!! For me snowboarding in socal is just alright, bear and mt high are just so crowded all the time, mt baldy is cool and has a more big mountain feel but lift lines can be killer. I prefer to go to tahoe or mammoth, and i usually get up to the pnw at least once a year. Im always looking for new people to ride with, we should get a pelicans surf or snowboard day going sometime! |
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This thread was instrumental in getting me out in the water yesterday for a late afternoon session. Our new house is about a 5 min drive to a reasonable beach break at the border of Santa Monica and Venice. Nothing special but at least some sets that were 2-3'. No bad days...
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MORE PICS, PEOPLE!!! And where are the snowboarding pictures? I don't have any of me going down the mountain... have some sitting on my butt! LOL! |
I used to slide down the slag piles in my old neighborhood when I was a kid, does that count?:D
University of Michigan | Museum of Art (UMMA) http://www.umma.umich.edu/images/vie...2002_2.257.jpg |
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Anyone hauling their surfboard on their P-car? Yakima/Thule?
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Heads up, The Billabong Pro Tahiti is on today with really good conditions, a bit inconsistant but the sets are grinding barrels. This place is off the charts as far as powerful tubes go. Its streaming live.
Baz, You are ripping with that fish. the day with the boats in the back ground looks sweet. Nice pics. Nostatic, good on you. fun to hit it again, yes? Did your son go out with you? Cheers Richard |
Hey Tweez, don't be hard on yourself as a beginner. We are all kooks a first. but the magic and rush of being in the wave zone and feeling the slide for the first times is new and freshest at the beginning. Just enjoy the grins. The form and performance come in time, but those first impressions only come in the beginning.
Thanks for starting this thread. Looking for some good snow pics. Cheers Richard |
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You tend to sink into it fast unless you keep moving, at some point you have to jump out of it, and then you just slide down at incredible speeds. No boards needed, just flat bottom Chuck Taylor Converse basketball shoes. It's sort of like sand surfing. It's more dangerous than that, urban legend (a mother's worries) says children have been buried alive by the falling slag. Moving to New Zealand--Sandfly Bay http://www.movingtonz.com/images/San...nd_surfing.jpg I have tried a little body surfing in the Great lakes, best tried between the ages of 13-16. |
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Yep Nostatic it could be way worse, back to back days in the water with your son. That is a good kind of worn out!! Its cool that your new place is walking distance to the Bch.
I have been mentioning the coverage of the Billabong pro in Tahiti. It was fantastic. Did anyone watch? There was a day off from competition due to the swell being too big for paddle surfing. They showed the most unbelievable footage of massive waves being towed into by some of the best guys and woman in the world, Many flew in just for this swell. It was mind blowing!! Saw what looked to be unsurvivable wipe outs, and guys getting pitted so deep in these monsters and making it out. And there was Keala Kennelly going off! I'll look for a link. This was epic, historic action. I hope some of you got to see. Cheers Richard |
Been at it over 35 yrs...prefer sandbars and beach breaks to reefs.
Son and I on a boat trip to Witch's and Ollie's in Costa Rica in 07. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314730958.jpg Bryce at Tea Trees in Australia 09. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314731041.jpg Going back to CR at the end of the year. |
tevake - this language you speak...is not of this place...far too cool n collect'd bro. You must thrash and flame!
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I've tried body surfing on PNW beaches. First, the water is COLD. Second thing I learned is that body surfing is a great way to get scratches on your belly and your pockets filled with sand.
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Thanks Lubie! Age and injury have all but relegated me to the spectator gallery these days, but it's amazing to see what is going down in the biggest of surf these days. I am trying to open a portal for a glimse into the world of todays surfing
for my fellow pelicans. Not having luck posting links for ya. On Youtube Tow Session Highlights, Billabong Pro Tahiti Event Recap Just google billabong tahiti pro and look for tow surfing and slow motion high lights, sit back and hold on. Any one help me with a link? Cheers Richard |
closest I ever came to surfing was in Newport RI back in the early 80's - was have'n 'relations' with a young lass in the surf when a breaker the size of a bus broke down on top of us. I felt like I tunmbled for 10 minutes. Took awhile to find my trunks and even longer to find her! Needless to say it spoiled the moment for an hour or so.
I have sense stayed away from waves of any size or dimension! When the surf speaks you best listen... |
I started boarding while still skiing in my mid 30's. I went full time boarding around 13 years ago. I haven't been skiing since.
The first few times can be discouraging however once you get it it's a rush. |
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In massive Tahitian waves, the most incredible day of surfing ever? |
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SICK!!!! I don't know how those guys can even survive a wipeout like that. That's gotta hurt! Motion, I'm with you on this. some of those wipeouts seemed not survivable. And if not for the Tahitian water patrol on their jet skis, there would undoubtedly have been more injuries. Probably worse. I'm hoping others here will look into more of this amazing footage, its the best. Cheers Richard |
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LA county has been going off today. Solid 4-7' with double overhead at some breaks. According to surfline.com the Wedge was 12-15' with some triple overhead sets. Supposed to stay that way for the next few days. I predict many rescues at the beach this weekend...
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Heading to Old Mans tomorrow at dawn. Cant wait.
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Kevin that is so cool with the flairs. fun idea.
Nostatic, that swell is the same one that went thru Tahiti for the contest over the last week, Its been being tracked for almost two weeks. From a storm to the south of New Zealand. It just came here as a large swell also. Neat how this long range forecasting works. |
Ah ha, New Zealand. I've heard of that place - lots of sheep or something.
Actually that storm was so bad, and cold, I couldn't type straight. It was the biggest, and only, time I've ever been amongst snow. A huge low pressure that got held in place for a week by a couple of high pressures and gave us a jetstream of arctic cold air. I'm 52 and had never seem anything like it and yes we had huge swells for a week. |
Tax man in the water...at Swami's from a couple nites ago. There have been 2-3 sightings further down the coast, and a 1/2 eaten seal carcass gaffed and brought up on the OB pier. We should be trunking it right now, but it's comfortable in a 4/3 :rolleyes:
My son snapped his board yesterday... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314972312.jpg |
big this morning
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Bill don't tell us that you had to change out of your shorts and knee sox.
You do see some weather in the wellington area, cold wind blowing thru the straight. This storm sounds like a gnarly one (someone had to use that word) bet it rearranged the sand bars out front. Do you see much windsurfing and kiting there in the bay where you live? Cheers Richard |
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I used to windsurf and liked the big days. I remmember one day was a metre above mast hight and that was lots of fun but I stopped after about 10 years as my body was getting too knocked around and it was expensive - six sails, three boards... And then putting my foot through a six hundred dollar sail :eek: But yes, lots of windsurfers and even more kiteboards. The sand bars are really nice right now, and I'm ashamed of myself not being out there. That's why I'm thinking of getting a standup paddleboard (SUP) to get me out there a bit more. Haha knee sox, we haven't worn those since the '70s Even then I thought it was pretty weird. I think we must have been the only country in the world where grown men wore beige shorts and white knee sox. |
Didn't have time to surf... work keeps getting in the way. Besides, lowyder993s's little picture creeps me out a bit...
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Neil |
I saw the mention that La Jolla reefs were closed yesterday due to a shark sighting in the kiddie pool. When I surfed Ocean Beach up in San Francisco seeing anything in the water would freak me out. Something about the great white breeding ground that is up there...
Too big for me at the moment, though I'm judging off video feeds. I'm not in good enough shape at the moment to charge big waves. It'll taper off later this weekend I think. We just need some Santa Anas to clean up the faces. It's remained overcast here a lot. |
Even Doheney had nice waves yesterday and today.
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