Very nice, nothing like a garage project to hide from the family over Thanksgiving!:D

Trust me I know, I'm repainting the bumpers on my Disco as well as rebuilding the differential lock linkage.

1) prelube when the engine is still out of the car, 2nd prelube when you have it installed before you start.

2) don't forget the 7/16 (?) short bolt in front of the block in front of the fuel pump mounting boss. Makes a mess when you forget that ;)

rjp

Tonight the first step will begin. I have to rearrange my garage some. I will need maximum room in the main work bay. It is a 3 car garage so a lot of the stuff like old tool boxes with carpentry & plumbing tools will get moved to the other side of the garage. It is a simple wooden tool box that my grandfather had. My dad remembers digging into it when he was a kid, and my dad is 82. It is built with hand made nails.

I will have to drive my 911 as a daily driver for the two weeks (I hope) it takes for the swap. It will be a tight fit to get that very long El Camino in the garage and still have room for a engine stand and hoist.

The wheelbase is 117 inches and with the front & rear overhang the vehicle is over 16.5 feet bumper to bumper.

OK, please explain #2. There is a piece of tape over the place where the mechanical pump would go. I will use a block off plate to cover that. Are you talking about this bolt hole? What is special about it?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1321365350.jpg

If that hole is tapped all the way through into the fuel pump push-rod cavity you'll need to use a short bolt to seal it. If it is tapped all the way through - it was used to hold the fuel pump push rod to hold it up in place while R&Ring the fuel pump.

The rod is @45 degree angle and will slip down as soon as you remove the pump - almost impossible to reach in and hold up while installing the fuel pump

I assume with FI, you won't be using a mechanical fuel pump so you'll block all of that off

Yea, I converted to FI back in 2004. Electric pump in the gas tank is the way to go.

(2) things that really befuddle me ...................


1) fuel pump in the gas tank? WTF???? why in hells name are YOU putting one in there? a KNOWN PROBLEM FOR YEARS from the factory! ask me how i know???

mount the damn electric fuel pump on the frame rail for easy access/roadside repair and never have to drop the "FULL" fuel tank. once again ask me how i know how damn much fun it is to drop a "FULL" fuel tank. carry a spare filter and if yer really worried...........mount (2) electric fuel pumps and (2) inline fuel filters, on the frame rail.

2) headers. have you ever dropped the big bucks(aka crowbar on yer wallet) on a "QUALITY" set of headers from a "QUALITY" header mfg? say maybe DOUG THORLEY!
HEADERS?

only umpteen gazzillion miles of pounding the living hell out of them in BAJA and not NARY A PROBLEM EVAR with them coming loose. and we're talking a good 4-6 ft of hang time AIR underneath the class 8. which you will never replicate with that el camino,unless yer doing a remake of bullit or chasing general lee.


p.s. dont fergit a QUALITY fuel pressure regulator and then TEST IT!


too much fuel NO BUENO.............too little fuel NO BUENO!

and.............dump the bucks on some QUALITY valve cover gaskets and DONT OVER TORQUE THEM!


with PROPER BREAK IN and 3000 mile anal oil changes, you should have NO PROBLEM getting 400,000 miles out of that engine.


i know how much they cost, i KNOW what a giant PITA it is to drop and install them.

and..................i cant stand anything rubber. poo can the rubber engine mounts/tranny mount and get some QUALITY POLY MOUNTS and NEVAR LOOK BACK!



another while "YER IN DER" public service announcement.

Odd job, that was hard to read but I put the pump in the tank like most cars on the road for a reason. The constant noise of a external pump is annoying. Been there done that. I fixed it.

I live in a city with paved roads and avoid jumping my cars at all cost. The tires work better when they are in contact with paved roads. The stock engine mounts had zero problems after 300k miles.

Quality headers may not have the leak problems but they have the ting ting noise problem.

This is my daily driver not a Baha off road buggy.

Iffn you change the oil every 3000 miles you must love throwing money away. Send it to me instead, I like money.

Know who came up with that 3000 mile oil change scam? Shell oil company's marketting department, the owner of JIFFY LUBE.

Back in the olden days cars ran rich and dirty, the fuel had high sulfur content, the ignitions weren't that good, they ended up with lots of soot and crap in the oil and the PH had a tendency to fall over time so changing the oil on them every 6000 miles was a good idea.

But cars run so clean nowadays and don't dirty up the oil like they used to so changing the oil more often is just evidence that the big bad corporation's attempt to brainwash us actually worked.

Follow the owner's manual (which is already conservative) and you'll be fine. Changing it every 3000 miles will not make the engine last longer than if you change it every 6000.
There are actual scientific tests to prove just that.

On modern cars changing the oil filter at every oil change is also a big waste of money. Oil filters don't get dirty on new cars unless the engine has grenaded and if that's the case your oil filter is the least of your worries.

You could change the oil filter every 25k and the engine would never know the difference.
In fact Honda recommends oil changes every 7500 miles and filter changes every 15,000 miles for at least one of their vehicles.

I've done lots of research and testing on this, my main responsibility at work is to figure out ways to make machines last longer between overhauls.
I spend over $1000 a month on oil sample testing by a place called Herguth laboratories.
Been doing that for a long time.
Oil analysis, Grease Analysis,Diesel Fuel testing
If changing the oil more frequently helped we would be doing it, but it doesn't.

The 3,000 Mile Myth of Oil Changes
September 25 2007
By MoneyBlueBook

What do you think about this statement - true or false? To prolong the life of your vehicle, experts recommend that you change your vehicle's engine oil every 3000 miles.

The answer? False! Modern engines today are much more advanced and don't require oil changes every 3000 miles, and research has shown that frequent oil changes have no appreciable benefits. The only experts that push for this are those from the oil industry.

The 3,000 Mile Myth

The long handed down concept of the 3000 miles oil change was the brain child of Jiffy Lube and propagated by oil industry officials. While it's not exactly a scam per-se, it's quite a lucrative myth for the engine oil maintenance industry. The average American drives 12,000 miles in a year, and with an oil change every 3,000 miles costing in excess of $25 each, that's $100 annually for each customer. Every visit to the auto mechanic or oil change facility gives them yet another opportunity to push for other pricey maintenance services such as air filter replacement and transmission flush.

Although oil companies and quick engine lube shops like to promote this idea, it's usually not necessary. Instead, drivers should consult their vehicle owner's manual oil change schedule for more credible guidance. Most vehicles driven under normal conditions can reliably go 7,500 miles or more between oil changes. Some models now even come with monitoring systems that alert the driver when the oil needs changing. Depending on driving conditions, they can help extend oil change intervals further - to 10,000 or 15,000 miles.

If you want some test trial and research backing, just take a look at what Consumer Reports discovered. They performed an experiment to test engine oil performance in 1996 using New York City taxi cabs. After examining the results, they concluded that:

Even in the severe driving conditions that a New York City taxi endures, we noted no benefit from changing the oil every 3,000 miles rather than every 6,000. If your driving falls into the "normal" service category, changing the oil every 7,500 miles (or at the automaker's suggested intervals) should certainly provide adequate protection. (We recommend changing the oil filter with each oil change.)

My Vehicle's Correct Oil Change Interval

I checked out my Honda Accord's driver's manual and lo and behold, the car manufacturer recommends oil changes every 5,000 miles for severe driving and every 10,000 miles for normal driving. Every car model's different, but in my case, my manual indicates that severe driving is characterized as mainly operating the vehicle under the following conditions:

•Driving less than 5 miles per trip, or in freezing temperatures, driving less than 10 miles per trip,
•Driving in extremely hot (over 90 degree) conditions,
•Used primarily as a delivery vehicle or taxi that is driven mostly in stop and go traffic and/or parked with the engine idling,
•Trailer towing, driving with a roof top carrier, or driving in mountainous conditions, or
•Driving on muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads.
My owner's manual also notes that if you only occasionally drive under the above severe condition, than you should follow the normal driving conditions maintenance schedule. With this in mind, I would consider my driving to be fairly normal with more highway driving than local since I commute to work mostly via public subway transportation. Thus, I now get an oil change every 6,000 miles (a compromise between severe and normal), which comes out to twice a year, and I find it to be very sufficient.

Oil Changes | Oil Change Frequency | Money Blue Book | Money Blue Book

Jiffy Lube changes 3,000-mile rule for oil changes
By Chris Woodyard, USA TODAYUpdated 6/14/2011 9:18 PM

Motorists caught between quick-lube chains' and automakers' guidelines on when to get an oil change may finally catch a break.

The largest chain, Jiffy Lube, is ditching the long-held one-size-fits-all mantra that oil should be changed every 3,000 miles. Instead, it says, franchisees will combine customer information on driving habits and the recommendations from their car's owner's manual for types of driving, from light to "severe," to come up with a specific schedule for that customer.

The system, which uses a kiosk with a computer to access a database of manufacturer guidelines, has been in testing for several months.

"We're showing them on a screen (what) a manufacturer recommends," says Jiffy Lube CEO Stu Crum. He says 47% of the customers at participating locations opted for the severe-driving schedule, with plans to get oil changed an average of every 3,502 miles. "Customers are choosing oil-change schedules that indicate they will return regularly."

Regular oil changes are a key way to prolong the life of an engine, but automakers have lengthened recommended intervals in recent years to as many as 10,000 miles. "Oil-change intervals are determined by operating conditions and driver habits, not by miles driven — busting the 3,000-mile oil-change myth," says GM spokeswoman Pam Flores.

In a further blow to the quick-lube business, many vehicles now let drivers know electronically when it's time for an oil change.

Parts in modern engines fit more tightly, and gasoline quality is generally higher, prolonging oil life, says David Champion, auto editor for Consumer Reports. He says he suspects that as customers have visited less often, chains may be coming up with the consultation idea or coaching motorists toward the severe-driving schedule as "a way to drum up more business."

Some quick-lube operators argue, however, that if car owners haven't changed their oil for 5,000 miles or more, despite what a manual might say, they are asking for trouble. "We know what we see," says Pat Wirth, president of the 1,200-member Automotive Oil Change Association.

She says most people drive in city traffic and temperature extremes that should put them on the more-frequent severe-driving schedule. And she says dashboard warning lights can provide "a false sense of security," because they aren't necessarily accurate.

Jiffy Lube changes 3,000-mile rule for oil changes - USATODAY.com

Very nice El Camino & good choice of engines. On of the guys in the local PCA is doing the same crate engine install into a VERY clean 86 944 that suffered a valve/piston collision. He purchased the blown up 944 for 1200.00 another 1700.00 for engine. It's gonna be a very nice ride for the bucks. If my 944 schlit itself, I might be tempted to do the same thing. Good luck & keep us posted.

3000 miles is overkill, but don't go too far the other direction. In the early 2000s many makes embraced extended oil change intervals that led to eventual issues with engine sludge and failure. Toyota, Audi, and Saab all come to mind.

what he said. that is tapped all the way through and will blow oil when you crank it unless it's blocked.

Look at your old block, nab that one.

I use vaseline to hold the pushrod in place while i affix the fuel pump

rjp

I have had two Benzs that indicate when the oil should be changed based on (i think) a measurement of viscosity and driving habits. They usually go between 10 and 13K miles - with over 350K miles between them.

They also carry 9-10 qts - don't know if that is germane to this discussion tho...

I read the actual article many years ago - this is a recap.

"Consumer Reports, with one of the most widely respected product testing laboratories in the world has just released the results of an extensive test on oil brands and oil changes, as well as other issues regarding car care. In the process, the test demolished much of the conventional wisdom regarding car lubrication. The two most surprising results: the frequency with which oil is changed doesn't matter after the first few oil changes on a new engine, and the type or brand of oil used can not be shown to make any difference.

The testers placed freshly rebuilt engines in 75 New York taxis and then ran them for nearly two years, with each cab racking up 60,000 miles, placing different brands and weights in different cars and changing the oil at 3,000 miles in half the cars and 6,000 in the other half. At the conclusion of the test period, the engines were torn down, measured and inspected. The conclusions: Regardless of brand of oil or weight, no measurable differences could be observed in engine wear. Furthermore, there was no difference among cars which had oil changed at the shorter or longer interval.

Does this have any bearing on the enthusiast's car, which is given almost the opposite usage stored for long periods of time then started and driven for short distances? The tests suggested that our type of usage would build up sludge and varnish, indicating that an annual or semi-annual oil change is a good idea regardless of how much mileage the car is driven. But there is little indication that the brand or weight needs to be given serious consideration, and synthetic oil has no discernible advantage over the old stand-bys. More information on the tests and results can be obtained from Consumers Union or the July issue of Consumer Reports available at most libraries.

Source: British Car Magazine, October-November 1996"

EFI and super tight fuel regulation and roller cams are what put machine shops out of business.

rjp

I can remember the days when we carried a matchbook in the glove compartment to set the gap on points every few months, and spark plugs got changed every couple years and were trashed by then.

Cars run so well nowadays that plugs last 100k or more, a modern tune-up isn't much more than changing an air filter.

Of course back then a new camaro or moose-tang cost $3500, now they're $50,000.

One of my buddies has a complete machine shop in the corner of his barn at his ranch. I took him the used manifolds I bought from a local salvage yard. The salvage guy lists them as "large style 350 manifolds" that are from some early 70s vintage vehicle. They are much larger than my old 305's manifolds. One of the bolts was broken off, and they were rusty. He measured them to be sure they were not warped and lightly milled off a new face and bead blasted them and removed the broken off bolt. He wanted 10 bucks for all that work. I will send him a gift certificate for a nice meal with his wife at a local restaurant that he mentioned his wife really likes as a thank you.

I think I will use the POR 15 product on the manifolds that is designed for manifolds. It makes them a pretty black like the rest of the crate engine. Another buddy did his manifolds years ago and they still look new.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1321450696.jpg

That O2 sensor is in place only to keep the threads clean. It is the one that was in place when I bought the manifolds. It will be replaced with a good O2 sensor.