I worked on the throttle position and it definitely opens up more now. The old seat of the pants seems to notice the difference. Of course that could be because I had time to detail the Elky this weekend. ;) Every car seems to run better when clean. It is all cleaned up, fresh wax vacuumed and windows washed inside and out.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325599389.jpg

With my fingers just pushing on the throttle the throttle plates never go truly vertical, but they are much closer to vertical than before.

I will do another data capture with my laptop and see what the throttle position sensor is seeing. If it thinks it is WOT I will go get another dyno run.

are dyno runs only 35 bucks? I'd love to see how my my mixtures show over the entire rev range.

That is how much the company here in town charges. Just 25 bucks more for a second run in you want to make an adjustment and go again. It does make me want to run my 911 on the dyno to see the mixture over the range of RPMs.

I would think for dialing in jets on webers it would be great for that final tweek

Actually getting WOT should help your power numbers a bit. That should help you feel a bit better about the swap.

re: A/F ratios on dyno runs:

I bought an LM-1 with wideband O2 sensor and I can record my actual on-road A/F ratios and download them to a lap top while driving.
It requires ruinning a signal from either a throttle position sensor or tach to the LM-1 to make the ratios meaingful but it's very useful.

I actually used it to turn my CIS into a programmable system.
I send an analog signal to the frequency valve and adjust system pressure based on what the wideband O2 sensor is telling me.

I could have it run really clean at all settings, and still have it go to 12.4 to 1 under boost :)

Update!
 

On Sunday Jan. 15th I spent several hours in the garage and the old manifolds are on the floor and the new manifolds are installed. I had to remove the fender liner on the passenger side because the heater core & AC evaporator are in the way. With the fender liner off I had access to get to the bolts and R&R the manifold. On the driver's side I had to remove the AC compressor & power steering pump to get to the manifold.

Yesterday I spent some time at my local muffler shop. I watched them build my new dual exhaust. The new manifolds don't exit in the exact same place so the muffler had to be modified. So "while I was in there" I figured now was the time for a dual exhaust.:D

The stock factory exhaust was just a single 2 inch system. The new system is a dual 2 inch and then up to 2.25 inch at the x-pipe. There is not much room up front for a bigger pipe without modifying the frame. I wanted to be able to change the oil filter and 4 inches of exhaust is plenty for my stock Goodwrench 350.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326809115.jpg
Out to the crossmember.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326809221.jpg
Mufflers go here.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326809271.jpg
Looking to the rear.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326809327.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326809386.jpg
Final exit.

The car sounds a LOT different. I sounds a lot meaner with a throaty idle. It has a slight drone at certain speeds but not bad. It does sound nice when the go pedal is pressed.

Next step is back to the dyno.

sweet!

Those muffler guys did some nice work!

Yea the guy is an artist with his welds. Most of the welds look like something from a robot. I wish I could tig weld like that. He spent a LOT of time making sure things were even on each side. It was obvoius he took pride in his work.

Wow tig welded exhaust. Thats F1 of you! Looks good. Is that a factory crossmember?

No the cross member was changed when I changed the transmission to a 200R4. I figured if I was changing the crossmember I should get a double hump. I had it powder coated. That was all done many years ago.

Such a treat to the eyes...an exhaust with no Cats! :)

No kidding. I think I just violated California emissions law just by looking at a non-cat exhaust.

Yesterday on the drive home I noticed a tapping sound under acceleration. After the engine cooled of I checked the manifold bolts and ever single one was loose. :eek:

I carefully torqued them when I put the manifolds on. I even double checked them before I put the torque wrench away. Now I am on a quest to find some sort of manifold bolt that is locking. Every system I have found is for headers. I guess if the bolt length is correct that should work.

Any ideas on how to get the bolts to stay tight? I don't want to use something like Lock-tight red.

Lock washers?

Lock washers helped, but I always had that issue with my last small block.

they shouldnt come loose..

On the old 305 the two bolts nearest the firewall would need a 1/2 turn every 3,000 miles. I used fresh clean manifolds and some old bolts and some new bolts. They all backed out.

One friend said I can cut a thin slot down the threads and that seems to help lock them in place in the block. That does not sound like the best choice. There has to be a proper way to keep them in place.

Blue locktite? Temps may be too high? Just guessing...