I have a "Auto-Xray" hand held device that reads the fuel injection information. It says the O2 sensor is doing its job and the rich/lean flag is toggling back and forth and is being adjusted as needed.

One of the changes I did was to go with a new fuel injector pod. The company I bought my original fuel injection conversion kit from sent a new injector pod and chip. When I pulled the computer box I saw the original fuel injection chip was dated 11/24/2004

It does not seem possible I converted it 7 yeears ago. That was still the best upgrade I have ever done to any car, ever. Even better than the engine swap! My Elky starts and runs like a modern car. The factory original carb was a total POS.

I will keep boring you guys with details. :)

I was at approximatly 100 miles on the new engine yesterday. As mentioned I did the 20 minutes at 2,000 RPM initial cam break in. After 100 miles of careful driving I figured it was time for a oil change and filter. I am glad I changed the oil & filter. There is a layer of gray "stuff" floating in the oil. :eek:

I will cut open the oil filter tonight and take a look at what is in there.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323266935.jpg

One other reason for the oil change is the break in oil I was using is the Joe Gibbs break in oil and it was a straight 30 weight. When the engine was cold just driving around the oil pressure was up at 55, and when it was hot at idle is was down to 10. With the multi-viscosity Swepco 301 oil in there cold pressure never goes above 40 or below 25.

One other puzzle is the oil level on the dip stick. I just reused to old dip stick from the 305. The bracket bolted right up. With 5 quarts of fresh oil right after the oil change the dip stick shows the level as one quart low. I put in 5 quarts so the dip stick is wrong. I will likely replace the dip stick since it is very easy to do. All I can guess is there is some difference in oil pans.

I expect the dipstick is correct and the new pan is slightly larger. The stick measures the level as a distance down from the same mounting point on the pan rail. The grey stuff floating on your oil is probably the assembly lube used in the motor. It,s not an indication of something wrong.

That moly lube in the oil helps establish a proper wear pattern- that stuff is exactly the reason you don't take it out for 500 miles.

Go to the auto parts store and drop in a bottle of "cam break in lube"- seriously.

rjp

I should have known you'd already have that handled! I just have to be the worry-wart Mom - LOL!

angela

One sign that I had a lot of cuts and nicks on my arms and hands during the work of the engine swap was seeing this on the floor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323291306.jpg


Yep that is blood, my blood. There were several other spots as well. I did not know I was bleeding until I saw the spot on the floor. I had so many spots that were already hurting that this little scratch went un-noticed. Until I saw blood. :eek:

I spent some time in the garage cleaning up. One thing that amazed me about the swap was how much anti freeze I needed. Every 24 months I drain my anti freeze and put in new. The radiator was nice and clean and amazed me how new it looked inside. When I drained the system for the swap I took out two gallons and put it in bottles to go to the recycling center. I had less than a quart left in my drain pan.

The point of this is that when I went to do the initial fill of anti freeze I had a fresh gallon of the concentrate that I mixed 50/50 with water. Without even using a calculator I can tell that is two gallons. In the past that most of what I needed. The system just sucked it up so I figured the new hoses and the empty engine needed more so I grabbed another gallon of concentrate and made up some more 50/50 and added a gallon. The system just sucked it up. The engine had not yet been started and I was starting to worry. Where is all that anti freeze going? I was freaking out trying to figure out if it could be going into the oil system. It was not leaking on the floor. I added a fourth gallon and it was looking full at that point so I put on the cap. I had to add a pint of just water to the overfill tank to get it up to the normal cold level.

After I started the engine and did the cam break in I was happy to see nothing leaking and as the system cooled off it sucked the overflow bottle empty. I had to add more water to the overfill bottle. Right now there is over four gallons in there! I would have bet money that three gallons would have it overfull. After a week of driving the system has stabilized and stays at normal level now.

16 qts of coolant and 6 qts of oil isn,t unusual for a V8 .My 1966 Mustang holds about 13 + 6 oil and it has a very small rad.. My 911 holds no antifreeze but cools with about 12 qts of oil.

Yea, my 911 has never leaked any antifreeze. :)

I saw this today. No wonder small blocks are cheap, 100 million of them!

GM Builds a Corvette ZR1′s LS9 as its 100-Millionth Small Block Engine

That's impressive...long live the small block! Most importantly, long live your small block!

Yea, if it goes another 20 years I will have to convert it hydrogen or maybe the flux capacitor will be perfected and I can use banana peels and coffee grounds.

Back To The Future Flux Capacitor Unlimited Edition - Movie Replicas Direct

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323371405.jpg

Wow! Even Ford doesn't have one of those!

:)

It is likely being used in secret on a well set-up 944! :D

The LS series doesn,t share any parts with the old small block except the name and approx. displacment.
The old ones were made in many millions though.

The cylinder bore spacing remained the same...thus the "small block" designation.

Yes I knew the bore spacing was the same .Still no parts in common and only a small block if they also make a big block at the same time.
It's an advertizing thing like Chrysler and the Hemi. Three different generations of hemi and no parts in common.
Famous history with Hemi and mighty mouse smallblock helps sales.

Just an update for the few that care. ;)

I have about 350 miles on the new engine right now. I still have not stomped on the gas. I will wait until at least 600 miles before I start to explore the power.

One of the smartest things I did was to take a LOT of pictures. If you are thinking of doing any major work I would recommend getting a cheap digital camera and a old used laptop for the garage. I shot lots of pictures at maximum resolution with my 12 mega pixel camera. I had some views of some things that only showed up in the wide shots like this one.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323790261.jpg

When it was time to reassemble the brackets for the air conditioner compressor and the power steering pump it is a real puzzle of parts. Fortumnatly I had the picure from above. I loaded the Picassa on my laptop. It is a free photo viewing program from Google. It is real easy to zoom in on a part of the photo.

I could zoom in and see this detail of the same image.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323790599.jpg

The ability to zoom in to the top image and see the detail of the brackets saved me a lot of time.

Great to hear that things are still working so well.

One other thing.

I did a lot of parts cleaning for this project. In the past I have used brake cleaner or carb cleaner which is some bad pookie stuff. Since most of this project was done in my heated garage I did not want to use a product that was so stinky and toxic. I switched to a product in a purple jug, Super Clean. It is pretty amazing stuff. It is a no brainier to use rubber gloves with any parts cleaner and I certainly did with Super Clean. It just dissolves the grease and grime. If the part is made of aluminum you can't leave it in too long as Super Clean will eat aluminum. For all the brackets and parts made of steel I just diluted the Super Clean 50% with water and let em soak. Just some brushing on the heavy deposits and they were clean enough to paint. It is some good stuff.