The biggest reason I decided the old engine was in need of replacement was the blow by. The engine had poor vacuum, and a lot of back pressure. The valve covers, PCV valve and breather vent were always leaking oil. Even the oil fill cap just oozed oil. It had oil leaks everywhere.

I should have measured to manifold vacuum before I pulled the engine. With the new engine my heater is working better, the power brakes are better and the ventilation controls all work better all due to the increased manifold vacuum. I did not find any bad hoses or connections. I did put on new vacuum hoses "while I was in there" but mostly because it would be flat out stupid to re-use a old rubber vacuum hose that costs very little.

You're gonna love it! Once you get past break-in, I mean...

I pulled the motor from my b4000 pickup with 340k for replacement and it looked amazingly clean and good, had been on synthetic oil it's whole life. My brother took out his 350 chevy and the gunk was an inch thick.

I think the gunk is a function of the quality of the oil and the oil temp while running and the residual heat after shutdown. YMMV

I finished the dis-assembly.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324300905.jpg

No major problems or "wow look at that" moments. As you can see from the picture above the crank had a small scratch on the first journal by the flywheel, but nothing major.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324301078.jpg

The cam was in remarkable shape. The lobes had a nice smooth almost polished look and the lifters were smooth enough to have a see a reflection of myself.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324301244.jpg

If you look at the surface of the bearing on the far left you can see the surface has some wear, but nothing big.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324301388.jpg

The old engine, hoist & engine stand are out of the garage. There was additional wifely pressure to get the garage back to normal. It will be after Christmas before I get a chance to power wash the floor, but I can start putting the rest of the stuff back into normal position.

I asked all my Chevy moter head friends if they wanted any parts or bolts and one friend does want the old oil pan. The rest will go to the scrap yard as soon as the weater clears up. I don't feel like standing in the rain at the scrap yard.

I declared the engine to be stage one broken in. I did hold the pedal down and got up to 4,000 RPM. It gets there pretty fast compared to the old engine, :)

I will put 1,000 miles on it before I figure it is really for the full WOT run. I have been driving with a heavy foot just to make it shift at 3,000 RPM or above. My gas mileage will really suck on this tankful.

Welp, the old 305 went across the scales and brought me $26.25.

Fortunately the scrap yard is just a mile from my office so it was not a long expensive drive. Every one of the employees came over and complimented me on my El Camino. Two of them asked it I wanted to sell it.

I had to drive up on a BIG scale and they weighed my El Camino, the trailer and then we unloaded everything and they weighed it again. Simple subtraction give the weight of the scrap, and they pay cash. :cool:

The biggest challenge of the entire thing was getting out of there. I had to back up with the trailer attached. :eek: For those of you that do that on a regular basis that is not very difficult. For me it was a challenge. I managed to get out of there without hitting anything and not look like a total dweeb. It was a long straight shot with a 8 foot concrete pit just one foot to the left and a wall of metal bins and junk stacked on the other side.

The next step is to get the trailer, engine stand & hoist back to my buddy that owns them.

$26.25 More scrap value than we'll be worth. Backing a trailer takes practice. After a spell, steering backwards becomes instinctive. Still, just sitting by a boat ramp on a warm summer day can indeed be a source of amusement. ;)

Backing up a trailer is certainly not easy, best to take it slow. I got some practice (first ever, I think) back in Jan, Feb of this year. What's amazing to me is watching folks that do it regularly. It's like parking a boat. I had a friend that could drift a boat into a parallel parking spot. It was impressive. Of course, he had spend several years working at a place than rented boats in Sarasota, FL, so he had LOTS of practice.

When I pulled the 305 from my Dad's 87 Monte, it was my personal delight to roll it out of the truck and into the scrap yard.

A most satisfying thump when it hit the ground!

You did a great job on this Elky, Glen. Lot of years left in that now.

angela

Oil leaks!
 

I am at 900 miles on the new engine. I started looking around the engine carefully with a flashlight looking for any leaks. I found some oil leaks. :(

Both valve covers were leaking a little. I had to pull the valve covers and break that factory seal to put on the intake manifold. When I put them back on I chunked the factory cork gaskets and put in the Felpro good gaskets that are rubber with a metal plate in the middle. I have had good luck with them in the past.

The Felpro gasket set came with some little braces to spread the load on the valve covers. The old engine had these real wide curved thick braces but I had not cleaned them up during the rebuild due to lack of time.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324913233.jpg

I finally got these cleaned up and painted so I just replaced the little Felpro ones with these. I think these are the ones that came on my 305 from the factory. Each one has a curve or bend and is stamped with a TOP and a BOTTOM and has a little logo.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324913427.jpg

The logo is a MP and even has a copyright symbol.

Anyway the old valve cover bolts were not very tight so I swapped in these wide braces and torqued them all to 90 inch/lbs. The only torque wrench I have that is good for that range is a deflection bar type. It was a pain to see the scale on some of the bolts but I got them all torqued down. We made a 200 mile road trip for Christmas and the leaks seem to have stopped. :D

I can remember building SBC's back in the day and using Corvair valve cover hold downs on the valve covers to keep the sheet metal covers from leaking.
I've enjoyed watching this thread as it reminded me of when I did a motor swap on my '85 Mustang GT convertible. Bought it with a blown motor. Put a factory rebuilt long block in it. Easiest engine 'rebuild' I'd ever done.
This motor should last you a good long time if you take care of it like you did the 305. Personally I'd be taking it to redline now if on a level road without any load in it. All the parts have to start getting to know each other at the higher engine speeds otherwise they won't want to go there when you do.
Good job and let us know how the oil looks after 1k miles.

I have 1,0000 miles on the engine and I have run it up to 4,000 RPM several times. It gets there fast. :D

The oil leaks seem to have stopped. I still get a slight smell of anti-freeze briefly as the engine starts to warm up. It is coming from the heater. I don't see any sign of anti-freeze leaking so I am hoping it is the residue from the leak I had when I first started the engine.

I have a dyno run scheduled for noon tomorrow. It only costs $35 for one pull and $25 for additional pulls. I will likely only do one run. I will put on the different exhaust manifolds and get the dual exhaust system installed some time next week. Then have one more dyno run done just to see how much difference the exhaust system really makes. No guessing or seat of the pants feelings, real science.

I will post the dyno sheet tomorrow.

Rev the snot out of it and really break that motor in before you do any dyno runs. You should have been hard on that motor from the get go.

4,500 is were the valves are about float with stock valve springs. The redline is 5,000 RPM and I bet the valves would be floating. I almost never get much above 3,500 RPM in regular driving even when passing. This is not a high performance engine, it is the base Goodwrench 350 engine. I am only doing a dyno run to see how much different is was to the dyno sheet on page one of this thread, and to see how much the bigger exhaust will change things. I am guessing the bigger exhaust will add less than 10 HP and 15 lb/ft of torque.

So much for double the HP!
 

One of the things I have heard is to never have you car on the dyno because you will be disappointed. That is one reason I have never done my 911. :D

I just had to spend $35 and find out just how much power I have with the same old 305 exhaust manifolds and single exhaust system. Here is the dyno sheet:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325193534.jpg

Not exactly spectacular results. The operator was rolling on the throttle to keep it from downshifting so it has a very slow uptake. The max power is just 151 HP so a 30% increase and the torque is now 215 so just 12% increase from the 305.

I will replace the 305 manifolds with the 350 manifolds I have and have the dual exhaust with a crossover pipe and then re-test. I don't expect much more than 10 or 15 hp and little if any torque increase.

I will send this to my fuel injection guy and he can modify the chip to not be so rich in the WOT mode. I guess rich is way better than lean.

It will be a couple of weeks before I have the new dyno run done. I will post those results as well.

Is that corrected HP or actual? iffn yer measuring at the rear wheels uncorrected, that translates into about 180 or so at the flywheel.

The torque curve is very flat which is good but she's running out of breath the higher she spins, the A/F is VERY flat and smooth which is also good, altho a tad rich under WOT.
All of which makes the ve-hickle very driveable and useable.
I'd be interested in seeing what the A/F is at partial throttle. It might be spot on.
Regardless it looks like it's controlling well. you'd never get that smooth of a ratio with carbs.Nuther thing to ponder, how often do you put yer foot all the way into it and how long do you keep it buried?
If yer like me you doan do it that often so max power don't mean squat. Response and smoothness and torque mean a whole bunch more.

Take a minute to look at the silver linings and you'll feel better, there are a couple of em there.

Is that information that was provided with this motor?

I guess it's not terribly surprising. My dad had a ZZ4 put in his old '82 Corvette and that with 350hp had a redline of 5800 or 6000.

Still, 30% more hp and 12% more torque isn't bad. You increased the engine size by 15% so the torque increase is pretty well inline with the engine size increase. Another few hp and lbft from the exhaust would be nice.

It also wouldn't surprise me if you see a small increase in fuel economy if you keep track of it.

Sammy, that is uncorrected rear wheel hp. I almost never put my foot in it except recently to break it in. I almost never get over 3,000 RPM. In my driving. That does not apply to my driving in the 911.

That's good, it means the real numbers are higher than what you see by at least 15% or 20%.
I'm betting that is darn near the perfect motor for that camino and for you.

A little better breathing won't hurt though, the torque slopes down starting at 3500. Iffn you let her breath that should continue out flat a ways and make the hp curve continue up farther at a steady incline instead of flatten out.

Next time you get it dyno'd, put about 45 psi in the rear tires. That's usually good for extra 3 or 4 hp on a dynojet ;)

The man that programs my chip for the fuel injection looked at the data capture from my laptop. He said I need to adjust my throttle cable because the throttle position sensor is not showing WOT. He also suggested the timing might be a little off. I will get that fixed this weekend and do another dyno run.