Toyota Tacoma Towing Question

[Hugh R]

I don't own a truck, we've been using my son's 06 Tacoma to tow our current camping trailer which has a tow rating of 3,000 pounds, the maximum towing according to Toyota is 3,500 pounds; the Tacoma does not have a towing package. My wife wants to look at another trailer that is about 4,500 pounds. Its a V-6 and has 79,000 miles. As near as I can tell, the ones with the tow package (rated at 6,500 pounds) have a bigger radiator and trannie cooler and a larger alternator, the suspension seems about the same. The aftermarket hitch is rated for the 6,500 pounds. Any thoughts? I'm sure I'll risk running the engine and trannie hotter, but if I keep an eye on temps, would I be OK or not?

I don't mind buying the bigger trailer, but am not really interested in buying a Tundra or other vehicle for the four times a year I use the trailer.

I see a few options:

1) tow it and see how it does (cheap) and I don't think one or two trips will hurt it,

2) Install a bigger radiator and trannie cooler, (guess of $500-$1,000)

3) Sell Tacoma and buy one with a factory towing package (guess of a few $1000).

4) Buy a big ass truck that I'll only use a few times a year (guess of $30-$40,000, plus insurance, annual license fees, etc.)

[craigster59]

I've got an '07 Tacoma 4x4 that i've towed a 6x10 loaded trailer a few times. Never had any problems with overheating and the power and acceleration have been fine. Haven't towed in the mountains though.

[Hugh R]

My big trip of the year is from Santa Clarita to Shaver Lake, CA in July. From the freeway I rise about 4,000 feet in 101 degree heat for about 30 miles or so. Did it last year with the current Tacoma, and it didn't get above normal temps.

[IROC]

I tow with my '01 Tacoma on occasion (3.4L V6 with towing package and additional transmission cooler). It pulls my 3500 lbs of car and trailer fine, but the shortcoming is more in the brakes. Even with electric trailer brakes and a good brake controller, it is scary trying to get the thing to stop sometimes. Panic stops are actually panic stops.

My truck is rated at 5000 lbs towing from the factory.

I don't think you'll hurt the truck, just take it easy and see how it goes.

[syncroid]

Hugh,
I also tow with my 01 Tacoma 4x4. My tent trailer is approx. 3500 lbs. I have had no problems except with the brakes. The rotors on the Tacomas are way too small. I'm on my third set of front brakes in 113,000 miles. The rotors keep warping.
Shaver Lake is a nice place. Near my old stomping grounds as a kid. Courtwright Reservoir is about an hour up the road from there and has some good fishing if you're into that.

[Z-man]

I dunno - if the tow rating is 5000lbs (which is more realistic than 6000 lbs)with the towing package, and you're pulling 4500 lbs and then the weight of all your gear, you aren't leaving any buffer...

-Z-man

[vash]

you guys should see what the nice folks over at Tacoma-world tow. insanity.

hugh, i guess you have a 4 cylinder tacoma? a tacoma can move my brother's 3000 lb trailer nicely. gas mileage drops to dragster levels, but it is do-able. what about a load equalizing hitch?

[chocolatelab]

the correct answer is 4.

There is nothing better than having a big asz truck that can tow or haul anything you need anytime.

Piece ( or is it peace ) of mind.

[gduke2010]

Originally Posted by Hugh R

My big trip of the year is from Santa Clarita to Shaver Lake, CA in July. From the freeway I rise about 4,000 feet in 101 degree heat for about 30 miles or so. Did it last year with the current Tacoma, and it didn't get above normal temps.

Heat kills transmissions. That would be a concern, and modern tranny's are expensive these days. If the trip is with the newer, heavier trailer, you might want at least a tranny cooler.

[t951]

another cheap option.....rent a truck those 4xa year....get something like a suburban from enterprise. everything stays the same, you just get to use the towing power when you need it. a hell of a lot cheaper, plus if you cook something, no worries!

[onewhippedpuppy]

You'd PROBABLY be ok, but it could be an expensive risk. Before you even consider it make sure your truck is in tip top shape, i.e. new fluids (especially transmission and coolant), properly tuned up per Toyota recommendations, etc. Does your have a transmission fluid gauge? Overheating and cooking the transmission would be my biggest concern.

If you don't want to risk your truck, t951 has a good suggestion above about renting a truck. I know you travel a lot for work Hugh, do you have a rewards club that earns you free rentals?

[VincentVega]

Trans cooler should be cheap to add, doesnt have to be Toyota as long as it's sized plumbed correctly. Same for radiator.

Brakes are going to be the weekness but there are several aftermarket pads available that give better performance. Again, not expensive.

Biggest decision is if you want to tow at 70+ or you're willing to take it easy. Drive within the limits of the truck and it'll work just fine.

[Tobra]

Renting a tow vehicle is a pretty good idea.

You can pick up a used Suburban or V8 pickup truck pretty reasonably, registration is cheaper for older vehicle. If you don't need 4WD, insurance is cheaper for 2 WD, though for pulling a boat out of a lake with a steep boat ramp, a 4X4 is handy.

Otherwise I would get a trans cooler and just take my time, don't use overdrive and plan ahead on your braking, maybe even upgrade those.

[kaisen]

Hugh-

Your son's V6 Tacoma will be FINE for towing your 4500 pound trailer a half dozen times a year.

My advice echos what has been said here, but I'll repeat and put it all in one place:

1) Run high-quality synthetics for engine oil, rear differential, and transmission .... this will lower temps a few degrees under load, and provide a small margin of safety if you do overheat. Have the transmission inspected, and fully flushed with new filter.

2) Add Redline Water Wetter or some other coolant conditioner/lubricant. Consider running one step cooler thermostat when you tow. Hose out your coolers and make sure they're free from debris in the cooling fins.

3) ADD A TRANSMISSION COOLER. It's very easy to do, and soooooo many of those Toyotas had them (incl 4Runner) that you should be able to find a nice clean set-up at any SoCal pick a part for dirt cheap. Otherwise a cheap, large aftermarket plate-and-fin-style cooler kit from B&M, Hayden, Trans Go, or Four Seasons should run $100-200.

4) Get a high-quality PROGRESSIVE electric trailer brake controller and know how to use it

5) Consider running an adjustable weight-distributing hitch. You can "tune" them for the best sway control and tongue weight for your particular trailer. They're usually used on much heavier trailers, but they can help. A 4500 pound trailer should only have 400-500 pounds on the tongue, but that might be enough to feel like the tail is wagging the dog. The bars will help.

6) Make sure you're running a LIGHT TRUCK TIRE versus a passenger car tire. The sidewall should say LT245/75-16 and not P245/75-16. Further, it could be a standard load, XL extra load, Load C, D, or E. The heavier the load range, the better it will handle heat and weight. The extra sidewall stiffness will really help with sway....squishy tires don't help.

7) Run in Drive rather than Overdrive. This may mean running a little slower, but you'll pump a lot less heat into the transmission and it won't hunt as much.

8) Go to a higher temp range brake pad in front. Consider adding cooling ducts (what? you thought they were only for track cars?) directing air from under the bumper to the front brakes. They can be simple flexible corrugated plastic hose held with zip ties and removed when you're not towing.

[Groesbeck Hurricane]

Transmissions can heat very quickly. Engines can run ino heat and other issues under load. How many people in the vehicle, what gear? You are probably already at the 4,500 pounds of cargo on the old trailer with all the gear and the people in the vehicle.

Towing packages add beefier springs, suspension parts, etc. Is the tow bar hooked onto the frame or the bumper? Do you have electric brakes? Can your vehicles brakes stop it plus 6,000 pounds additional? Is your towing vehicle long enough wheel base that the trailer will not wag the vehicle? Will the towed vehicle now substantially outweight the towing vehicle?

Soooo very many questions. You might be able to pull it off but you might run into issues just as easily.


We tow 10,000 pounds all the time and our 3/4 ton Ford is set-up for it. There are many times when people do stupid things and we have almost hit them. Last time I drove a woman ran a red light right in front of me in slow motion. I almost hit her, good thing I have electric trailer brakes! Wife had two "sporty cars" weaving in and out of traffic almost sideswipe her. The a girl in a nissan cut between her and an 18 wheeleer she was passing, Wife does not know how the girl did it without getting hit as the distances were closing fast.

Those are just the last two times we were pulling trailers in a rural area.

Will your vehicle be able to react to idiot drivers?

[Hugh R]

Wow, thanks guys, its a V6, and has progressive electric brakes and the hitch is attached to the frame, not the bumper. The disks are slightly warpped now, so I'll redo them, with upgraded disks and pads before I go to Shaver Lake. Synthetic fluids and water wetter sound like a great idea. I need to check to see if it has a trannie cooler, if not yeah, I'll get a new or used one.

I don't think most rental trucks come with an electric brake setup.

[Jared at Pelican Parts]

Will be fine. I've towed more then that with my brother Tacoma and had NO problems. I've even towed 4000lbs with a 22-RE and had no trouble. Toyotas are TOUGH.

[craigster59]

Just a heads up. The later Tacomas have a habit of making a 'thump" or "clunk" in the driveshaft on stop and startup (not real noticable, but after towing a trailer for 1000 miles I was worried I might have done some tranny damage).

It's a common problem and was explained to me this way:
"The thump you are experiencing is probable axle wrap. The springs are light so they ensure a smooth ride when unloaded. Try putting your truck in Neutral and coast to a stop. Once stopped, release the brake and you will probably not experience the bump from behind. The drive shaft is connected to the rear-end via an articulating spline shaft that slides in and out when you accelerate and brake. The problem is caused when the transmission has a load on the drive shaft caused by the high idle of the Tacoma, the leaf springs are under load. Not until you come to a stop and let off of the brake does the truck sit down causing the spline gear in the rear end to line back up and slide all the way back in the rear end causing the bump. Toyota is well aware of the issue, however it is a design flaw of the truck. Go and take a look at the Fore Runner. It has traction bars that prevent any axle forward or rear articulation.

the FIX is to add to progressive leaf springs or aftermarket traction bars such as BudBuilt - Traction Bars."

[IROC]

Originally Posted by craigster59

"Toyota is well aware of the issue, however it is a design flaw of the truck. Go and take a look at the Fore Runner. It has traction bars that prevent any axle forward or rear articulation."

Just for information, a 4Runner has a completely different rear suspension than a truck (coil springs) which necessitates the "traction bars". They are not there for leaf spring axle-wrap.

Also, FWIW, I installed adjustable coil-overs in the front and rear add-a-leafs on my Tacoma and it was the best thing I ever did to it. Suspension is slightly stiffer and more controlled, body lean is less and the ride quality is actually better. My wife even talks about how well it rides now.

I've looked into the Tundra brake upgrade, but have never pulled the trigger. Supposedly it is essentially "bolt on".

[Vipergrün]

Originally Posted by Hugh R

Wow, thanks guys, its a V6, and has progressive electric brakes and the hitch is attached to the frame, not the bumper. The disks are slightly warpped now, so I'll redo them, with upgraded disks and pads before I go to Shaver Lake. Synthetic fluids and water wetter sound like a great idea. I need to check to see if it has a trannie cooler, if not yeah, I'll get a new or used one.

I don't think most rental trucks come with an electric brake setup.

I buy the slotted/dimpled rotors with pads from Brake Rotors Brake Discs Drilled Slotted Rotors. My Tundra had issues with front rotors until I got these. Lifetime guarantee against warping. Just a happy customer.