1969 912 Value - Page 2

speeder · speeder's Garage

For early cars in general, and particularly 912s. I sold this 1969 912 about 5 years ago for my cousin. I put it on eBay and it sold to a guy in Spain for $7500. It was a fair price at the time, I researched it pretty well in advance. It was a true collector quality 912.

speeder · speeder's Garage

I could have bought it for $6k, IIRC.

Any valuation experts want to tell me what it's worth today?

Jrboulder · 09-03-2012, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speeder

I could have bought it for $6k, IIRC.

Any valuation experts want to tell me what it's worth today?

More than you'd like to know about

I passed up a 68 912 in pretty good shape a few years ago for $4400. An SC targa came up for 5k so I wasted a couple days with that guy and by the time I decided I didn't want the SC the 912 was sold. Ah, the good ol' days...

speeder · speeder's Garage

Well, I bought a really rusty '67 912 for fifty dollars in 1977. It was complete.

Baz · Baz's Garage

There's a 912 Registry - if you haven't contacted them yet - in case you want more opinions.

I still stand by my opinion that you should buy it for asking price (or if he will bend a little - your call).

And as I said before - if still worried....you could always provide a refundable deposit and have a PPI done at a local Porsche shop.

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

bubbles mean rust

can you DIY a full repaint?

Baz · Baz's Garage

Also FWIW my '73 911T that I sold (Tangerine) had some rust spots at the bottom front corner of one door and the bottom rear corner of a front fender but the rest of the car was solid.

I know because the buyer had a local expert go over it with a fine tooth comb before agreeing to purchase it.

The buyer soon after purchase replaced one door and one fender had the paint work done to blend everything and walla......it was essentially a rust free coupe again.

The spots on Tangerine were not really bad - small like the size of a silver dollar. But the buyer wanted to flip it and he had his eye on the high-end market so wanted a car with no rust repairs on file.

Anyway...I should have never sold her. You have a nice collectable there. Go for it!

Deschodt · 10:13 AM

Good grief...

Fixing that rust is not trivial, and if it's there, you probably got it in all the expensive places. It'll take money and parts ($$$$ for fenders), or lots of cutting/welding. Then it needs a paint job bad ($5000 minimum?). It is very likely as others said that the front pan will need work, but you can look closely I guess...($1500 -> 3000 depending on extent)

Other things are non original, mirror on passenger door is too far forwards (common, but it leaves holes), the interior seems incorrect or butchered in places, the engine compartment is full of modern ignition and fuel crap (the value of these cars is in originality), the engine mounting bar is missing 2 bolts, blah blah.... It doesn't look like something that was taken care of, nor a good start to me honestly, at any price... Once you figure a paint job, fenders, welding, deturkeyfying the engine bay, you will have more $$ into it than it's worth.

IMO with 912s, you really gotta shoot for as nice a car as you can get. Fixing them up is not cheap (911 money) and they are worth less than 911s, so it makes sense to buy the best you can afford, even more so that with 911s. Check out my sig, I know because I made that mistake twice... I just spend $3000 on the 68's front pan and various stuff, and that one showed 10x better than the one you are looking at.

Deschodt · 03:49 AM

Also if this helps, in the spirit of full disclosure, here are mine, pricing, issues etc...

1) 69 - bought about 7y ago for $8500

Looks good but paint is incorrect, both doors full of bondo, rear lid too, fromt suspension pan was replaced "artfully" but it's solid so it'll stay. Interior door panels are wrong, mirror on pas door is wrong, PO cut an RS vent in the front bumper (sigh) which I cleverly hid with that plate. I also redid the carbs and the engine + tranny mounts + correct bar, retrofitted a period fuel pump, correct steering wheel.... Worth today in good running condition - possibly 15K ? I've got doors, will look for a lid, and have it repainted correctly along with a new interior... Ouch, but it'll be nice...

2) 68 - very original inside

Sold to me last year long distance, as a nice car... Except not really... It needed a front pan and battery support etc... $3000 in metal work. Another $1000 in paint matching fender edges and cleaning up some paint boo-boos around the front trunk, Misaligned engine lid chipped the paint, will have to spend $500 on that too... Paid $19000 + $1800 shipping + tax + the above bills... Guess who's unsellable now ? ;-)

So like I said, buy the nicest you can afford, the less rust the better... Call me crazy but I'd gladly pay $20-25K for a totally original unmolested well running zero rust coupé.