Help with Craftsman Riding Mower

[arbita1]

I bought a riding mower a few weeks ago. (Model 247.28885). Yesterday in the middle of using it, it stalled out and I could not get it to start up again.

It has fuel that is only a week old.
I took the spark plug out and it wasn't wet. It was brownish and dry. Then I grounded it and checked for spark which there was a strong blue spark. I disconnected the fuel line that goes to the carburetor and fuel was coming out. And no air blockages that I found. I opened the intake pipe to the carburetor and sprayed cleaner in it. But it's brand new so it clean.

I don't know what else to check. It's under warrenty but my appt is not until 11/2. I need to cut the grass before than.

What else can I check???

[gr8fl4porsche]

There is most likely an electronic fuel cutoff switch at the bottom of the carb. It is attached to a safety switch under the seat. Cuts off fuel if you fall off. With the key on, you should be able to hear the switch at the carb click when the button under the seat is depressed.

[Chocaholic]

You have to make an "appointment" to take your lawn mower in for warranty service? And three weeks out? Is this common in NY?

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by Chocaholic

You have to make an "appointment" to take your lawn mower in for warranty service? And three weeks out? Is this common in NY?

The warranry gives you two years of Sears Home Service. So the appointment is for a technician to come to your house. Yeah... 3 1/2 weeks is the first available opening they have to come out. Sucks.

I stopped buying Craftsman power tools a long time ago and just stick to their hand tools. However, I figured the gas powered stuff would still be okay since they have B&S engines and the one I have is made by MTD. Maybe not.

[944Larry]

I always think "Honda". Hate not buying US made but I learned about reliability of small engines years ago. B&S may not be US made anymore either.

[cstreit]

Cutoff switch under the seat or possibly the overrun selenoid under the float bowl.

[oldE]

It is probably one of the 'safety switches'.

Make sure the mower drive is disengaged, the seat switch is functioning and the brake switch is doing its thing.

As mentioned above, you should be able to hear these things clicking. You may also be able to bypass some of them or check for continuity.

I am amazed at the number of safety cut-outs on these things, but my 30 hp New Holland is no different.

Best of luck.
Les

[arbita1]

Things to check tonight.

1. Double check to make sure spark plug isn't wet - per Sears tech on phone.
2. Compression Test to make sure there is good compression - per B&S website
3. Check fuel cut-off solenoid.

[9dreizig]

does it have CIS ? have you measured the fuel pressures ? consider yanking it all out and putting in an EFI system...
oops wrong forum

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by gr8fl4porsche

There is most likely an electronic fuel cutoff switch at the bottom of the carb. It is attached to a safety switch under the seat. Cuts off fuel if you fall off. With the key on, you should be able to hear the switch at the carb click when the button under the seat is depressed.

+1
Something in the circuit that energizes the cutoff isn't letting it open. The safety system usually shuts off the ignition but doesn't affect this switch. Put a tablespoon of gas down the carb. If it fires, this is definitely your problem.

[arbita1]

So last night I did some more testing with no luck.

I check the fuel solenoid. It was clicking when I turned the key to the on position. So I ruled that out. All the other sensors (like the blade engagement lever) cut off ignition so when you turn the key it won't crank. So I don't think those are a factor since the engine will crank.

I pulled the spark plug after each time I tried to start it. And it was wet with fuel. I think that would mean I'm getting fuel to the cylinder if that is the case. Correct?

I did a compression test and got 70psi. I'm not sure what it should be but at least it confirms compression.

After thinking some more could my problem possibly be the battery. After 1-2 tries it dies and I have to keep it on the charger. Maybe it's not strong enough to turn the engine. The date on the battery is almost a year old. This mower was a floor model that I picked up. Could this be the issue? I'm out of ideas.

[oldE]

Originally Posted by arbita1

So last night I did some more testing with no luck.

I check the fuel solenoid. It was clicking when I turned the key to the on position. So I ruled that out. All the other sensors (like the blade engagement lever) cut off ignition so when you turn the key it won't crank. So I don't think those are a factor since the engine will crank.

I pulled the spark plug after each time I tried to start it. And it was wet with fuel. I think that would mean I'm getting fuel to the cylinder if that is the case. Correct?

I did a compression test and got 70psi. I'm not sure what it should be but at least it confirms compression.

After thinking some more could my problem possibly be the battery. After 1-2 tries it dies and I have to keep it on the charger. Maybe it's not strong enough to turn the engine. The date on the battery is almost a year old. This mower was a floor model that I picked up. Could this be the issue? I'm out of ideas.

Did you happen to hit a rock/some other debris just before the mower quit?

I have heard of the flywheel key shearing from a sudden shock to the crank, which will throw off the timing and although it is getting fuel and spark, the spark doesn't come at the right time.

Good luck.

Les

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by oldE

Did you happen to hit a rock/some other debris just before the mower quit?

I have heard of the flywheel key shearing from a sudden shock to the crank, which will throw off the timing and although it is getting fuel and spark, the spark doesn't come at the right time.

Good luck.

Les

No. I was mowing and all of a sudden it just started to lose power. I shut off the blade and then it eventually stalled out.

[dhoward]

Does it seem hard to spin over? This sounds like a new mower, but with a B&S overhead valve engine, valve clearances are critical.

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by dhoward

Does it seem hard to spin over? This sounds like a new mower, but with a B&S overhead valve engine, valve clearances are critical.

I'm not sure what you mean by "hard to spin over". It is a new mower.

[dhoward]

You mentioned that it seemed as though the battery was weak. Does the engine turn over smoothly and quickly? Turn over. Spin. crank.

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by dhoward

You mentioned that it seemed as though the battery was weak. Does the engine turn over smoothly and quickly? Turn over. Spin. crank.

No. I feel like it is cranking slower than it should. But I'm not that familiar with these engines.

[jpk]

So you seem to indicate that you have fuel (wet plug) but did you check for spark?
Hold the plug against the cylinder head while cranking and see if you get a good strong spark. If not, you need to investigate the ignition system. The coil/magneto is under the engine cover. I wouldn't expect a sudden failure without any kind of evidence; look for chaffed wires and such.

[dhoward]

As I stated earlier, the valve clearances on those engines provide a type of compression release. as the clearance opens up, the engine looses power, eventaully stops, and becomes hard to start. I had replaced two batteries and a starter before finding this out. It's just a suggestion, but there are youtube videos explaining the adjustment procedure.
Lawn Mower Repair Valve Adjustment - YouTube

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by dhoward

As I stated earlier, the valve clearances on those engines provide a type of compression release. as the clearance opens up, the engine looses power, eventaully stops, and becomes hard to start. I had replaced two batteries and a starter before finding this out. It's just a suggestion, but there are youtube videos explaining the adjustment procedure.
Lawn Mower Repair Valve Adjustment - YouTube

Thanks. Worth a check. Seems pretty straight foward...actually not too different than the 911 valve adjust. Maybe easier. I watched it without sound. Do I need to drain the oil before I remove the valve cover?

Originally Posted by jpk

So you seem to indicate that you have fuel (wet plug) but did you check for spark?
Hold the plug against the cylinder head while cranking and see if you get a good strong spark. If not, you need to investigate the ignition system. The coil/magneto is under the engine cover. I wouldn't expect a sudden failure without any kind of evidence; look for chaffed wires and such.

Yes. I confirmed I have spark.