Dry lube recommendation for speed loaders?

[Joe Bob]

I have two "go packs" with semi open to the air, Uncle Mike's pouches.

Total of five loaders with frangible and hollow points. The rounds are in need of a long lasting, dry lube to facilitate sliding into a cylinder w/o binding.

Any suggestions? Prefer a low odor topical application.

[Jim Bremner]

What would Elmer Kieth use? Tears of liberals? Car wax?

[Jeff Higgins]

Very, very bad idea. You don't ever want to lube cartridges to facilitate loading into the firearm. Brass cases are meant to expand upon firing and grip the chamber walls, reducing back thrust against the recoil shield (in revolvers), or the bolt (in bolt action and semi auto rifles), or the breech block (in single shots), etc.

There is absolutely no good reason to do this anyway. Cartridges should drop right into any chamber for which they are meant, under their own weight, without ever binding.

[Jeff Higgins]

Any oil or solvent left in a chamber may someday migrate to the primer and deactivate it. That, and liquids left in a chamber can sometimes ring the chamber when the gun is fired. On top of those two issues, we still have the back thrust as well.

Like many things in life, there are plenty of "firearms instructors" out there who really shouldn't be.

I wouldn't worry about old ammo. Keep it clean and dry and it will outlast both of us. If it does start to turn green or something, just clean it with some scotchbrite. Or shoot it up - that's way more fun.

[ODDJOB UNO]

to answer the question in a correct manner, NO LUBE EVAR!


but back to reality...............if a speed loader doesnt work................



than YOU have to take chamfer TOOL and CHAMFER the CYLINDER.............AS IN ALL (6) HOLES!


that way speedloaders drop shells in effortlessly and CORRECTLY with no fiddle fooking around with them.


any wheel gun i own gets the cylinder chamfered without fail. .38/.357/.44 special/.44mags.


many moons ago it was done during mfg. and then along came the bean counters and they realized it was another OP and to save money and increase bottomline.............they did away with OP.


now ya take it to gunsmith /do it yerself/or send back to mfg custom shop to do.

[weseeeee]

I agree with Jeff.

[GWN7]

Learn to shoot better..... you won't need more than 6.

[M.D. Holloway]

If you want I'll send you some dry moly - plates nicely on metal, even does a great job at corrosion protection. It will be in an aerosol can, dries in a minute - solvent is IPA and flashes off. The moly makes the metal a cool dark gray and it can be polished to a really shiny surface.

Its slippery business

[John Rogers]

Shoot um. If that is not possible due to ammo shortages up your way, cycle and swap the rounds weekly and remember just to NOT pull the trigger during the swap. If after shooting the next rounds are tight, you might need a cleaning reamer as made by Dave Manson which cleans out the cylinder bores but does not enlarge them. I always liked moon clips better than speed loaders......

[id10t]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

Hmmm, My firearms instructor used to recommend a light coating of Hopps oil inside the cylinders to keep rounds from corroding when they stayed in a revolver for long periods.

My frangibles are starting to turn into Barney Fife relics. These are for use in my short barrel .357s.

I may just blow them off and replace them. They are getting a bit long in the tooth.

I don't shoot my 45 1911 much - its costs over the years (even at wally when in stock) and I have a GSG 1911-22 for cheap fun w/ 1911. But I shoot 2 mags of ball ammo every other range trip or so, and all my "bedside ammo" every 6 months.

[Jim Bremner]

only buy nickle coated cases for speed loaders?

[Joe Bob]

Well, they needed the semi annual cleanup and lube anyways. Used Hopps #9 solvent, lubed the ejector shaft and buffed the casing on the Glaser rounds that I keep as my bedside ammo. Glasers don't come in nickel but the back up are hollow points are now nickel.

Anyways, the S/S/Model 66-1 and Titanium 340PD now load and eject smoothly. With a 1.87" barrel the 340 is more of a belly gun....the 66 is surprisingly accurate at even 50 yards.

Anyways. Lube, you have a PM.

The Smith and W twins are happy.

BTW, when looking for my cleaning supplies, I found some dies, primers and powder. If anyone wants to make a cheap purchase or trade....contact me offline.

[E38Driver]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

Well, they needed the semi annual cleanup and lube anyways. Used Hopps #9 solvent, lubed the ejector shaft and buffed the casing on the Glaser rounds that I keep as my bedside ammo. Glasers don't come in nickel but the back up are hollow points are now nickel.

Anyways, the S/S/Model 66-1 and Titanium 340PD now load and eject smoothly. With a 1.87" barrel the 340 is more of a belly gun....the 66 is surprisingly accurate at even 50 yards.

Anyways. Lube, you have a PM.

The Smith and W twins are happy.

BTW, when looking for my cleaning supplies, I found some dies, primers and powder. If anyone wants to make a cheap purchase or trade....contact me offline.

PM sent.

Dave

[Jeff Higgins]

Originally Posted by LubeMaster77

If you want I'll send you some dry moly - plates nicely on metal, even does a great job at corrosion protection. It will be in an aerosol can, dries in a minute - solvent is IPA and flashes off. The moly makes the metal a cool dark gray and it can be polished to a really shiny surface.

Its slippery business

Another very, very bad idea. Just because it's a dry lube and won't harm primers does not mean it has any place in the chamber of a firearm. Period. Lubricated chambers or cases are very dangerous.

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

.38/.357 3 piece dies, about 150 primers, some black powder and some Bullseye.

That's not black powder. It's a modern substitute. It won't give the performance of real black powder.

[Jeff Higgins]

Gotcha - sorry to be picking nits. Seems there are quite a few companies producing black powder substitutes today, where there is nothing wrong with the real deal.I have yet to see a substitute that works as well for actual shooting. Just making smoke and noise, yes. Shooting, no.

[Joe Bob]

Ah crud....went down to the range today to qualify. My high dollar, back up .357 AirLite's cylinder has decided to stay in the frame. POS needs a switch to the left hand and a whack from the right while actuating the release. I need this?

No recalls from S&W....any input? Damn thing has less than 200 rounds thru it.

Lubed the pin, frame...with and w/o rounds.

[Joe Bob]

Smith is sending me a warranty return authorization.

[M.D. Holloway]

Got your PM - you should get a can next week sometime. I will check with a few of our gun experts on this idea. I do recall it was used for a similar problem and was successful.

[Jeff Higgins]

Originally Posted by LubeMaster77

Got your PM - you should get a can next week sometime. I will check with a few of our gun experts on this idea. I do recall it was used for a similar problem and was successful.

If any of your gun experts tell you that any sort of lube in the chamber of a firearm is o.k., they are immediately disqualified as a "gun expert". Period. This is one of those exceedingly simple, inviolable axioms that are so well vetted by so many people conducting so many experiments (both intentionally and unintentionally) over such a long period of time that there is no longer any question about this. This is a grave safety issue. Your continued pursuit of this idea on this thread has at least some potential to cause injury or death to someone reading this who, like you, does not know any better.

Maybe it's because your business is lubrication. Like the man with only a hammer, whose every problem looks like a nail, every problem looks like a lubrication problem to you. This is not - at least not until you introduce lubrication into this; it then becomes a very, very serious problem.

Just to make this clear for anyone reading this thread - never allow any sort of lubrication to enter the chamber of a firearm. Never lubricate any ammo to ease its entry or feeding into the chamber. Firing any sort of firearm with any sort of lubricant in the chamber has the potential to damage the firearm and injure or kill you or any bystanders. This is nothing to play with. This is nothing to debate on some b.s. car forum.

Sorry for the strong words, but this has to be nipped in the bud. This is a very serious safety issue.

[ODDJOB UNO]

come on................lets spray the hell out of ANY FIREARM with "WD-40"!


its the sheeets man.......................


its gurranteed to ATTRACT DUST!

its gurranteed to migrate into your primers which =NO BANGY! and yer DEAD!

its gurranteed to give away yer position and sit-yee-ational awareness due to its SMELL!


and its gurranteed to freeze in sub freezing weather.

its gurranteed to make yer gun go CLICK when that giant azzd ROYAL BULL MONSTER ELK OF YER LIFE WALKS BY YA!


its the only SELF PROCLAIMED LUBRICANT ON THE PLANET that was NEVER DESIGNED nor ENGINEERED to be a lubricant.



IT IS JUNK AND THROW IT AS FAR AS YA CAN AWAY! throw it into yer azzhat neighbors yard so they can use it!



wd-40 was designed SOLELY for the west coast WWII aircraft industry to spray on metal surfaces of stored aircraft parts along west coast coastlines to inhibit salt/air corrosion on raw metal surfaces. THATS IT!



so if ya HAVE a can or gawd forbid a CASE of WD-40 on yer shelf...........YER A MARKETING SUCKER MORON!



wd-40 is the BIGGEST MARKETING JOKE ON THE PLANET! unless of course yer running B-17 / PBY catalina/B-24/P-61/P-51/DAUNTLESS/GRUMMAN/ etc etc/parts and have fuselages and wings sitting in yer yard along a coastline, prior to shipping out to final assembly.



and thats a FACT JACK!



actually we should ship all the wd-40 production to n. korea and iran and let them gob it on all their weapon systems. YUCK YUCK YUCK!