Be gentle... I need help/information about classic Mustangs
 

So, to preface, I was raised around foreign cars. With the exception of a Dodge Ram, all of my vehicles have been of German or various Asian persuasion. As I work on my 911 project, my wife interest seems to be peaking and she asked recently if I would build her a car next. "OK! Sure!" (me thinking AWESOME!). So, I asked her what kind of car she might want. Her response: Classic Mustang... 1st-gen.

So, I'm thinking, cool, I've never really worked on 'Merican cars. The construction looks simpler than a 911 and I'm becoming more and more comfortable with my welder, there's loss of options, parts availability, resources, etc. etc.

But where do I begin?

So, my first thought is join the Pelican forums of Mustangs. But what is that? Can anyone out there suggest a good Mustang forum or other information resources? I've done a Google search but Google doesn't really give personal opinions.

Thanks in advance.

Begin with buying as complete a vehicle as possible :D Search the net for what areas are prone to rust (some here can likely expound on that). The good news is there is a lot of items for those vehicles are being reproduced. I am in the same boat as you BTW :)

I inherited my grandfather's 1970 Mustang about one year ago, it's my next project after my '88 911 is done. Here's a collection of Mustang threads from OT. You should also check out Vintage Mustang forums, it's the best I've found: Vintage Mustang Forums

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/731128-hot-rod-suspention-shops-rustangs.html
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/667672-my-new-1970-mustang.html
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/660969-classic-mustang-resources.html

I've restored a dozen Mustangs. Compared to a Porsche, both you and your wallet will laugh. I would target a 67/68 and find as rust free a specimen as possible even if that means no engine. A powerful drivetrain for a Mustang can be had for $10,000 new. You could be up and running in a few months. Try stangnet.com.

$10,000? You can get a 300+ HP full-dress crate motor for under $4k! As I've planned my work that is the most amazing thing, parts are silly cheap and available everywhere.

Yes, I said drivetrain. That includes engine, clutch, bellhousing, 5 speed tranny, driveshaft, and rear end.

Ain't it grand?!

Which body style does she like? Are you going to keep it original or do a restomod?

Plenty of parts availability...but I think you'll find this long thread very interesting...

My son's future Bullitt - IMBOC

(edit) Just look at the pic of the car on page one, then the finished car on the last page. That'll stimulate you to read all in between. One hell of a years long father/son project.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1365358624.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1365358638.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1365358651.jpg

I drove this car as a sales rep for just under 380,000 miles from 1993 to 2005


First thing AFTER you have chosen the model and year of your project is you REALLY need to have a clear idea on just what you want out of the car.

I bought this as a mild runner with 220 rhp in 1993. By 1995 I was doing track days in it so it started the slipery slope of mods. I went up a couple notches. Changed out rear gears add on custom made wheels to go to bigger low profile tires wheels are replica's of stock 1968 wheels but are 15" over the 14's that came fom the factory

Around 1998 I blew my first engine after a 120 mph straight-a-way I dropped a valve. Engine #2 was a crate motorsport B302 motor with better heads, a bigger intake and dyno'ed around 260 if I rember right

Add in more upgrades to the suspention, change rear gears, add a modern 5spd Add on American Racing Torq thrust D wheels

2001 things go bigger on brakes, add in a 302 based stroker motor, 331 ci 364 rear wheel hp at 6,400 rpm and rev limiter set at 7k on the street and 7,200 on the track This engine was built in my Dads home garage by us using intake, carb, ( dyno shop tricked out this carb for the prior B302 motor) Distributor and headers.

Find a set of 16" Torque thrust D replicas to clear larger brakes, Wife walks in on conversion while "doing a brake job" See's 8 wheels with "R" spec tires Dad gets a free set of 15" torque thrust D wheels and some pretty fresh rubber to go on his Ranchero!

Do have a clear plan and work your plan. I did all of my work other than paint. I can tell you that I spent far more than buying a M3 new off of the lot.

I'm thinking of buying a 1966 GT Fairlane once I get back to work. I have a wife with MS that's nearly bedridden and I'm cook, cleaner, bread winner. I will most likely buy a finished car at this point due to lack of time. I will sell the Corvette that I bought with the funds from selling the Mustang. This car is almost perfect but I want a Manual trans. 1966 Ford Fairlane Coupe for sale | Hemmings Motor News

Jim, I can tell that you miss that Mustang. Hey, I would too...

A pic of the finished father/son project I linked to above...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1365361428.jpg

the OP is asking about the 1st Gen

I drove one last year and it is pretty primitive - it was essentially just a body kit on a Falcon chassis - not to say it isn't fun tho

try to get your wife interested in one a little newer

The aftermarket is full of chassis/suspension upgrades for first gen. Mustangs...so I wouldn't let the "primitive" chassis bother me if the look of the first gen is what you like. You can have handling that will let you hang with Caymans in the twisties if that's your goal.

(edit) Randy may doubt this...so here's a link to visual proof
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBRPy8n2L3E

Of course, it's all a taste thing. But if you ask me, the first generation fastback is still the best looking Mustang ever...

Paul, I do, and I don't There comes a time where a car owns you. This was the case. If I was wealthy and coukd own it and several? I still might have sold it.

It was a major stressor. I couldn't wait for the right day to drive it. not raining, not driving 200 miles. Not too hot since the car didn't have AC or much insulation and the heat that the engine produced was high. Add in heavy noise and worry of where to park it in LA and tailgaters no passenger side rear view mirror and a thick C pillar, a 2,800# pund clutch no power steering and things get stressful in LA traffic

I'm proud to have built it and to have driven the snot out of it but not sure if I want it back!

Picked this next project up for under $1000 here in LAhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1365362795.jpg
Steve

Jim, That I understand as well...yep, I do. No more old collectable cars for me.

These days, I prefer to keep things simple...

Agree with you on completeness but with a caveat. Buy as complete a vehicle as possible with correct parts... I'm learning this lesson with my 911. It was complete, but complete with parts for early SWB cars as well as mid-year and even some 914 parts to boot. It is a '73.

Thanks for the suggestion of vintage-mustang... I think I saw that the other day. I'll go back and explore deeper. Will also check out these threads when I get a chance.

A co-worker of mine also suggested targeting '67-'68s for commonality between the years as far as sourcing used parts is concerned. I like this generation as well. I'm not sure my wife is as aware of the differences between these and the '64.5s-66s but I've shown her pictures and she does like them. Not to start another subject or debate on the merits of a show like Wheeler Dealers, but they re-did flipped a '67 (I think) recently and Mike Brewer stopped at a resto parts company in Cali before returning to England. I couldn't believe what was available and the prices!

Good questions. We both like the fastbacks, she might actually prefer a coupe. I don't think a 'vert is in the cards. As far as original or restomod? It depends on the car. Her boss has a '64.5 numbers matching coupe that may be for sale. If the price were right, I would be tempted to keep it original. If we got something non-numbers matching, or missing pieces, I'd go restomod all the way.

just about any mustang sheet metal part you could ever need at very good prices. well, for just about any car actually.
Auto Body Replacement Parts | Rust Repair Panels | Auto Body Panels

Thanks for the link!

Thanks... I will definitely check it out.