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The Edelbrock carbs Do have one good thing going for them. You can take them out of the box and with no tuning, bolt it on top of almost anything and it will probably run ok. And for some people......that's enough.
The Holley is the same way, but way better if properly matched to the application. They are usually shipped a little on the 'fat' side on primary jetting the vacuum secondary spring is very heavy which causes delay in opening. But for this vehicle prolly about right you may have to step down 1 or 2 sizes in main jet for altitiude. |
Some engine code info. Of course, if it's been swapped, all bets are off...
Jeep VIN Decoding, 1962-1992 Not for nothing, but my dad didn't like these trucks one little bit. A company he worked for in the late 60's used them and they broke down a lot. Cool looking though. I remember having a Tonka Gladiator. That one was pretty reliable. ha. Go TBI! |
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That's why the vapor lock was minimized to only parked. With a mechanical pump siphoning the reduction of pressure will make life a hassle. rjp |
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If it had a later TBI fuel pump, I would have definitely reused that. Asphaltgambler? You're dead right about the idiot-proof-ness of the Edelbrock. I swear that a freakin' monkey can slap one of these on and the engine will run/drive with zero adjustments. It is startlingly easy. In the carbureted hot-rod world, there are Holley guys and people who hate 'em. Me - I don't have a dog in the fight as far as Holley goes. I also have no experience with them. I've used Edelbrock on multiple cars and I have zero hot start, zero cold start, zero drivability issues with them. If this car isn't running right with the Edelbrock, the symptoms you describe are not inherent problems with the carb, they are a "problem" with the carb itself that requires a repair. Cheap way out of this problem is to fix the stuck/gunked up etc., part rather than replace anything. angela |
oops, you are right. Carbed and CPU q-jet....
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I have an Edelbrock 500 on my highly tuned Rover V8 engined car and that is enough carb for 300 bhp on the dyno. The carb ran the engine straight from the box but it took way more than an hour on the rolling road to get it jetted suitably for mid range as well as WOT.
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Everyone has an opinion- here's mine
Nothing wrong with the Edelbrock carb. First thing is to take the carb off and install it with a phenolic insulator between it and the intake manifold. That should solve any hard start/boiling fuel issues. Put a fuel filter in line to the carb and check fuel pressure, as others have said the carb is sensitive to what fuel pressure you have (check specs Edelbrock website). While you are in there visually inspecting the needle and seat do yourself a favor and write down what jets, air corrections, venturis are in it. This will help diagnose any issues later without guessing or taking the top off. Obviously check timing and put a good ground strap/s from block to battery to frame as this almost always needs to be done to ensure a good hot spark. Get AAA and drive it |
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I"m wondering if the fuel pump diaphragm is ruptured dumping fuel into the crankcase.
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Dang - NOTHING worse than a leaking diaphragm... ;)
angela |
Got a spacer and a new needle and seat for the carb. Gonna tear into it today and see what I find. Pulled the dipstick and dont smell gas.
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Look at the side of the block down under the heads. Large numbers. Will say 304, 360, 401 etc. all amc engine share the same external dimensions.
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I mean, that would take years to learn, wouldn't it? |
I had this 76 Cherokee Chief with an AMC 360 except in a desert tan. AMC owned them at the time and supplied the engines. It was a real horse and I loved everything about it except the crappy factory carb that was always ran like crap. Wish I had it back right now!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383002726.jpg |
You should read the Edelbrock carb owners manual .It,s available on line from Edel tech cen.
Before pulling the top to change the needle seat try the steps on pg 6 re flooding .Tap with a rawhide hammer and the pinch off the fuel hose run the carb dry and just before stalling release the line to try and flush any debris out first. If you do pull the carb apart , float level specs are also in the manual . detailed tuning info is also there as well as original jet sizes and needle specs. A very detailed booklet . |
Don't listen to nay Sayers on Edelbrock. Know what this is?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...d/willies2.jpg That's right, my 1941 Willys coupe. Look closely. That's a 502 Chevy engine with two of your carbs mounted on a Weiand tunnel ram. Talk about a tuning challenge! This bad boy put about 450HP to the rear wheels. Anything can be tuned as long as it ain't broke! |
Im not putting a Holley on it.
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I,ve had good results using them as well as a Holley. |
I've never had a good experience with a Holley. My favorite 4 barrel carb is the Autolite 4100.
Got the carb off. Needles and seats were wasted. Carb full of gunk. Rebuild time. |
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