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S&W wheel-spoon questions
My other thread may not have been the best place to ask this question.
Anyone got an idea what a good price is for a supposedly NIB 27-2 6" nickel plated gun with boxes, tools, paperwork? Also, can someone tell me the difference between these two grips besides one would fill the hand more. I've seen in ads, presentation grips, square butt, etc.... This type is fairly common on the model 27. It completely encloses the butt of the frame and is much wider at the top of the grip ![]() and then there's this type that just follows the contours of the frame, leaving the frame exposed on the front, back and butt. ![]() Is there a special name for each of those? Was the fuller grip preferred or was it just a personal preference?
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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I think the fuller grips may be considered target grips.
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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Just go on Gunbroker and see what they are going for. Being considered NIB and with all paperwork pretty much maxes out the value.
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The prices seem to be all over the place, of course that is for assorted styles of model 27. They range from $600-$1800. I'm kind of thinking that a reasonable price is $1200-1500.
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I've been looking at similar models, specifically a S&W .357 Magnum with a 6" barrel. $600-700 seems to be the sweet spot for non rare shooter quality pieces. Your $1200+ estimate for a safe queen sounds about right.
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Quote:
If I wasn't specifically looking for a nickel version, I'd probably scoop up a model 28 real quick and be done. I think, in some ways, I actually prefer the satin finish on the 28s to the high gloss on the 27.
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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"Is there a special name for each of those? Was the fuller grip preferred or was it just a personal preference?"
Steve, you're taxing my brain trying to think what the smaller grip was called. Perhaps just the standard grip. I'd expect most 27's came with the target grips, and most with target trigger and hammer (T TH). Of course it's easy to swap them (the grips) around, not like they were hand fitted to the gun. Some grips have a date stamped inside that I suppose should match the gun, if that's important. Those prices seem like a lot of money to spend for one but I guess I'm somewhat stuck in the '80's. What the traffic will allow, so to speak. I'll grant I haven't seen one come through in a number of years. The pinned ones strike me as fine a revolver as one could ask for. Jim
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Jim, thanks, it seems the smaller grips are called "magna" grips and the larger grips are called "target" grips.
Now, another question. If you were looking for an N frame would you balk at an '80 model gun for any reason? Would an early 70's or late 60's model be preferred to a 1980 model?
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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I guess everyone draws their line in the sand in different spots.
For me, all the gun cabinet Smiths are pinned (older than mid-70's). That said, I have some keepers that aren't (even one with the internal lock, but at least it's hammerless so I can't see if it has the new type hammer ![]() Jim
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the ad says that it's pinned and recessed, but a list that i found says that the SN is for an 80. In the pictures I can see the pin, there isnt a shot of the back of the cylinder. i found a site that says they stopped making them pinned and recessed around 1982.
ok, I remember reading that the pinned and recessed models are considered the better models when i looked them up some time ago. thanks
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A lot of the S&W chatter reminds me of the 996 IMS stuff. Everybody prefers pinned because it holds the barrel more securely, but nobody has had an issue with the modern ones. Everybody hates the MIM parts, but nobody has had a failure. Everybody hates the ILS, but nobody has had an issue. Lots of comments about "I knew a guy" but little first hand experience. The one thing that I 100% believe is that the quality of the older pre-2000 stuff is higher, more hand made and fitted.
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A lot of what I found online about "pinned and recessed" is that folks think that when they were pinned and recessed they were more well made with more time and craftsmanship applied to production. People believe the change from pinned and recessed was a change to cut costs (which I'm sure it was) which may have corresponded with a sacrifice in quality in the name of cost cutting.
and they were all very clear about... " I believe this even though it may not be true." And they usually followed up with " besides, I just think they are cooler."
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() Last edited by masraum; 12-23-2013 at 01:06 PM.. |
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I just bought a 686+ with a 6" barrel, so it doesn't matter anymore.
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Cool, congrats. I think that's an L frame, in between an N and K. Nice.
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Last weekend I purchased a 686 + Talo with a 3 " barrel. I too was originally looking for a pinned barrel but none were at the gun show I attended. While the 686 may not be hand fitted like the guns of the past it sure looks/feels like a quality piece. I purchased this weapon to shoot at the range but if I ever have to use it in a self defense mode I don't think the bad guy will care if the barrel is pinned or not
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One other data point, when I was at Gander Mountain yesterday they had a mint looking nickel plated 19-4 with a 6" barrel for $899. They were busy and I didn't want to spent that much so I didn't handle it, but it sure looked like NIB quality to me. No idea if it actually included the box and paperwork.
My P250SC is on Armslist and I have someone interested in trading a nice looking blued 19-4 with a 6" barrel for it. So I may end up acquiring two wheel guns in a week.
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so, i want gut opinions on a comparison between two guns. Both are model 27, 6" barrel, nickel plated, pinned and recessed.
1980 27-2 new in box complete with all paperwork, tools and all original. This seller has a fair amount of feedback, all positive. mid 60s model, been fired some, but little to no wear from being carried. no box, no paperwork, hogue grips that look like wood but I'm not sure. It also seems like they could just be a weird, wood colored glossy rubber? I'd want to get a set of the original style target grips. This is also the first thing that this seller has ever sold on GB, but does take all of the major credit cards. i bet i could get the 60s model for half the price of the nib model. i think grips would cost $60-100. i like the idea of having a brand new, never been fired gun complete with all documentation. i plan to shoot it. i don't have a problem popping the cherry on a new-in-box gun that I paid a premium for. ![]() vs ![]() The current price difference is not that much, but the NIB hasn't met reserve and the other one doesn't have a reserve.
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() Last edited by masraum; 12-24-2013 at 05:21 PM.. |
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If those are the choices, I would go with the known commodity. I'm always really sketchy on buying from a unknown seller, be it a new forum member or a new seller on an auction site. The NIB one also looks fantastic, I know it's just the grips but damn they look good.
Slight tangent, but where are you finding those style of wood grips? I'd like to try a set on my new 686. The rubber Hogue grips are pretty comfy but just don't look "right" on a revolver.
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I did a search for "N frame grips" on GB. There weren't many, most were hogue or pachymahr (sp), but I believe there may have been one or two sets of originals.
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Just go on Gunbroker and see what they are going for.
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