Building a house, considering a scissor lift

[jcc911]

We are in the process of building a house and they have not yet poured the garage floor yet, so I thought about having the extra car stall set up for a flush mount scissor lift as it seems it would be easier to have this done now rather than later.

Need to know what to tell the concrete guys as to how to design this, or is the in floor set up not worth the hassle?

Thanks.

[URY914]

You need to give the dimensions and tell them you want a recess in the slab for it. Any experienced form work carpenter should be able to work it out. Make sure they realize it has to have a floor slab under the lift, not just a blockout in the slab. And you'll need an empty conduit for the power run over to the wall. You'll have to tell them where you want it.

[A930Rocket]

Do it. It'll be worth it.

[Nostril Cheese]

I'd consider a movable two-post way above a scissor lift.

MaxJax Portable Two-Post Lifting System by Dannmar

[atcjorg]

and maybe a drain

[URY914]

Originally Posted by atcjorg

and maybe a drain

In some places a drain will require a oil/water separator ($$$$). Cities don't like garage floor runoff in their systems.

[Mark Howard]

Jeremy you have a PM

[SeanPizzle]

I start excavation on friday for my shop/garage. I am doing a bendpak SP7X

BendPak SP-7X Scissor Lift, 7,000 Lb. Capacity, Frame Engaging

the dimensions needed for the boxes recessed in the slab are in the tech specs on that page.

Good luck.

[porsche4life]

I just bought a snapon scissor lift a while ago. I haven't really used it yet, but got it moved into its home today. I have ramps to pay beside it that I can drive on so my oil pan will clear. Check out the specs on the lift you want, if you are having the hole built. Electric in the hole for mine wouldn't do any good. Mine has the power pack seperate on wheels, so I'd need to have a big enough tube to run a big hydraulic hose down in there. I'll post some pics a little later.

[widebody911]

[widebody911]

[widebody911]

[porsche4life]

Awesome thom! I wish I could do that for my lift!

[dad911]

If you have the ceiling height (11') a two post or 4 post are much more versatile, and will give you room for an extra car.

[mikesride]

agree with dad911....If you have the space and finances a good cable over hydraulic two post is the way to go. That being said.....I still roll around on the floor with jack stands so you guys are all living the dream from my perspective!!!!

[rfuerst911sc]

Here's mine I " cut " the floor years after the floor was originally poured. Turns out the previous owner had the floor poured 8 " thick ! Rented a wet saw, marked it out and went to town. Reinforced with rebar tied into the existing slab. Made a floating form and had some pro's come in to pour it. Came out great. Regardless of what kind of lift you have it's MUCH better than crawling around on the floor

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Here's mine I " cut " the floor years after the floor was originally poured. Turns out the previous owner had the floor poured 8 " thick ! Rented a wet saw, marked it out and went to town. Reinforced with rebar tied into the existing slab. Made a floating form and had some pro's come in to pour it. Came out great. Regardless of what kind of lift you have it's MUCH better than crawling around on the floor

I am very interested in doing that.

You say you tied the new rebar into to rebar from the slab. Did you weld the rebar together? How did you tie it together. If that the Bend-Pack lift? Did it come with the pads for the wheels?

Have you though of a cover of some sort to keep leaves and junk out of the pit when the lift is not in use?

If you were starting over would you do anything differently?

[billybek]

I have a Snap On open frame scissor lift and I would like to recess it into the floor one day.
Maybe when I run out of other renovation projects!
Good idea to do it before the floor is poured.
If I had the ceiling height, I would have put in a two post. You can purchase or make wheel engaging adapters to turn it into a storage lift without having suspension droop from leaving the wheels hanging for the off season.
If you have lots of room a good 4 post isn't a bad option either.

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera

I am very interested in doing that.

You say you tied the new rebar into to rebar from the slab. Did you weld the rebar together? How did you tie it together. If that the Bend-Pack lift? Did it come with the pads for the wheels?

Have you though of a cover of some sort to keep leaves and junk out of the pit when the lift is not in use?

If you were starting over would you do anything differently?

I tied the new rebar into the old concrete not the old rebar. If you notice in the first two pictures the new rebar goes into the old concrete. I drilled holes about 6 " deep on both edges. Took rebar and bent the ends so they went into those holes. Once I had the holes drilled and the rebar bent I injected each hole with construction adhesive. I only did this to hold the rebar while the concrete was being poured. I poured the new concrete 8 " thick it's not going anywhere in my lifetime ! It's been several years and not one hairline crack or any issues. Also no ground water leaks and we've had record rains this year. The lift is a used Ammco that I purchased when I lived in Orlando, the movers loved having to move that to Marietta . The pads for the wheels as you call it are just scrap pieces of aluminum. I did that so the wheels and the pivoting end do not dig into the concrete. Also you can use varying thickness of aluminum/metal to raise/lower the lift if needed. I really can't think of anything I would change if I had to do it over it came out as I planned it. Oh and her's a pic of the cover, it's a piece of 1/2 " plywood cut to size. Part of my form made a ledge on the two long sides for the cover to sit on. Since these pics I have painted it and added aluminum C channel around the perimeter for some strength. It's really not meant to walk on. In a perfect world the cover would also rest on the top of the lift that would give additional support to be able to walk on it. Hope this helps.

[GH85Carrera]

Thanks. I was trying to figure out how you cut around but not through the old rebar and bent them into that shape. That makes sense to drill the old concrete for the rebar.

It would take a real concrete pro and some luck to cut a hole that is the perfect depth to put the lift in place and have the cover match up to the top of the lift for support.