What tool do I use to cut this?
 

Construction question:
I am enclosing a porch. I need to cut on the red line to remove the 1/2 sheathing so I can put in drywall. problem is getting into that angle and making a depth cut just deep enough to cut out the sheathing, but not cut into the load bearing beam above the door. A circular saw wont get into that angle. Thoughts? Thanks. Ronhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415662561.jpg

If it was me, and I didn't have one already, I'd spend a few bucks on the HF Multi tool.

Use the circular shaped blade, mark it with a piece of tape to monitor the depth, then change over to one of the straight blades to finish the corners.

Probably less than thirty bucks with a discount coupon...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415663316.jpg

Or, if you're feeling froggy, an old fashioned back-saw and some elbow grease....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415663383.jpg

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Sawsall.

There's a flush trim saw floor installers use, but it isn't cheap. For that little cut, use a Sawsall

Yeah, but you're a pro. SmileWavy

Cool Dremel saw.

That would take care of most of it the fastest.... then finish off the right corner with a Multi tool.

Chainsaw

http://woodworkessence.com/wp-conten...Brian-Ruth.jpg

Sawzall as mentioned above...

You would age a bit using something like that multi-tool

The Dremel solution looks good..

But since I have a nice Sawzall and a bunch of blades....

I'd look into renting the flush trim saw for flooring. I'd also look at it first to see if it suits your need.

Since that ugly sheathing adds a lot of useful shear and beam strength to the span, you might consider sheetrocking over it then trimming out lower edge. Just my 2 cents.
regards,
Phil

Try this if you aare not comfortable with the Sawsall. King Arthur's Tools 45822 Lancelot 22 tooth, 5/8" center hole - Power Angle Grinders - Amazon.com

It will fit in your 4.5" grinder but you almost have to do it without a guard. Its a great little tool, but I think its a bit dangerous. With a Sawsall, worst is you WILL bent a few blades getting going. Once you get it going, it should go quick. 15 minutes, it should be done.

I have a flush cut saw but I think I like that sir Lancelot thingy better.

Hannibal was filmed in my hometown Richmond Va.- one of my favorites!
I was in dental school when they blew up downtown, and Julian Moore runs across an abandoned trestle that I mountain biked on all the time leading to belle island. Soundtrack was also good in that movie... and biltmore...

Anyway....
Okay, do they make a convex sawzall blade? I kindof remember an "as seen on tv" sawzall blade that cuts all sorts of stuff. Maybe it was convex? I can't find it on google searches.
(This project is getting expensive and I really only want to pay $5- I'm cheap)
I was thinking a HF or NH chinese multitool- but I live in the country and with no nearby stores I would have to pay shipping, and then they would inevitably have a sale on the $39 multi tool a week later for $19 and I'd be pissed! My dad also has one and he can't find it- so yeah- not only would it go on sale, my dad would say "Oh yeah- I found it" right after I bought it.
But then that Dremel....oh yeah.... $100, but it wouldn't get that corner.
I needs me convex saw sall blade.
PS- I about killed myself using a straight sawzall blade cutting the plastic siding from this angle. Holy crap that was a sight- like the ghostbusters shooting their plasma guns all over the place and blowing up the whole hotel!

P.S- Good call on just drywalling over the board, but that thickness would prevent the french door from completely closing against the wall. Also the beam is LVL, so I'm good on strength.

The saws-all would work, but it would be a little tricky to make a neat cut. The dremel saw-max is pretty inexpensive and designed for flush cutting as in the video above (special blade). It will allow you set the depth of cut as well. It is made for folks that are not pros and has other uses around the house.

I would do the last inch or so...in the corner with a drill and a wood chisel after the cut...or back saw.

Yup. Did you remove the sheathing on the rest of the wall? Looks like that door was added later?

Pack out the door jamb 1/2" and rock over the sheathing.

+1
Don't make your life so hard. Drywall up to the sheathing, drywall down from the ceiling to lap over it. Finish it with a piece of J-trim, and get on with your life.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Phillips-Manufacturing-Company-8-ft-x-5-8-in-Vinyl-J-Trim-50-Pack-JT6VYL-8/203116182?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CBase&gclid=CjwKEAiA4YG jBRDOxa3XvfTnvSASJACC3bLBRXkVDg2xpCZ3gK9Y7sujmNVeh u6pB9PmxNH8xHGzRBoC-5Xw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Unless the remainder of the wall has sheathing, he will then have a problem there as well.