Is it any big deal to install a wood burning stove?

[motion]

My Montana shack, for some bizarre reason, doesn't have a fireplace. The builder was a guy from San Francisco, and I guess he forgot. Anyway, I have ruled out putting in a real fireplace. The surgery required for the only available location would be too major. So instead, I would like to put in a large wood-burning stove. I'm not really after the heating capability, per se, but more for the ambiance... the colors, noise, warmth, etc.

I know I can go down to the fireplace store and get one for a couple thousand $$$. But, for installation, I am concerned about someone cutting a hole in my wood-finished vaulted ceiling, roof shingles, etc.

Has anyone done this and is it a big deal?

[Rick V]

How about a free standing gas fireplace. The venting is almost non existent and since you aren't really looking for the heat it might work. Ya just won't get the smell of wood

[Mark Henry]

If you're getting them to do it, it has to be to code. If they do it all the time it's an easy job.
Ceiling gets a trim ring and the roof gets flashing that slips under the shingles.

[motion]

No gas, thanks. I want crackling wood. We aint got no stinking codes here.

[Crowbob]

Not a big deal if the pipe goes straight up through the roof. A big consideration is the fireproofing around and under the stove depending on what the floor is made of and how close to any walls the stove goes.

[Evans, Marv]

You can get plenty of nice looking stoves with large glass inserts in the doors. Also if you're getting a stove, you might as well get one you can use for heating too assuming you will mostly be using it during colder times. If you don't need the heat, you can vent it through the flu. I'd ask around for referrals from people in the area who have had stoves installed and put together a list of construction people to interview. After the first one or two, you'll be able to tell which ones are better.

[Crowbob]

I loved mine. Heated you several times (cutting, hauling, stacking and finally burning). Cheap, too. Had a chalet-type house with one side completely of glass. Horrible blizzard inches away from me and the kids wrestling in t-shirts and PJ's.

[Jandrews]

I had a Vermont Castings stove in my Colorado Log Home. It wasn't cheap, but it was far and away the best part of the (very cool) house, and frankly what I remember most!

The heat output was incredible. My house was at 9,000 feet, and that little stove would heat the entire first and second floors (granted it was a VERY open floorplan). And the ambiance was incredible. The whole routine and therapy one gets from building and maintaining and enjoying an indoor fire in a beautiful mountain setting is one of this world's greatest pleasures.

I did a slate floor under and around the stove, and had enough distance from the wall that I didn't need any other shielding. Then the flue ran strait up about 22 feet through the vaulted, southern yellow pine and hemlock timber rafter ceiling/roof.

Mine looked like this:



Go for it, Motion, and share the build/pics!

JA

[flatbutt]

Clearances are critical but going through the ceiling and roof is pretty clean if the installer is experienced.

Oh and don't burn any pine!

[TimT]

Is it any big deal to install a wood burning stove?

No!

I have free standing wood burning stoves in both of my houses..

I've had the stove in my house in Wantagh going for 3 days straight .. will have to shut it down tomorrow to clean the ash....

Both of my stoves are Vermont Castings...not sure of the availability in your locale

Per the code and install guides... there are minimum clearance to combustible materials...

[Crowbob]

There is maintenance, too. Imagine a jet engine shooting out your roof if you don't keep the flue clean. It usually happens only once per house, though. Either the house burns down or the fear and panic during the experience cures you of chimney neglect forever. Or so I've been informed.

I never slept as soudly as I would have liked with the knowledge that there is a fire in the house. The heat is absolutely dry = dry, itchy skin, cracked lips, nose bleeds. All good!

For a Montana shack it's perfect.

I heated entirely with wood (which I harvested) for 5 years. Pushing the up button on a thermostat is way better I found out, eventually.

[Porsche-O-Phile]

Funny you should mention this. I'm fighting with trying to get a wood stove / boiler into the basement right now. Major pita. The descent into the basement is proving to be a beast of a job (using an engine hoist from above) but I'm looking forward to lots of "free" heat (from the trees I've cut down in the back yard). It's a doable job but it's work.

[ckelly78z]

I have been burning wood almost exclusively for 20 years now, My first stove was a small Vermont Casting woodburner, but with my old leaky farmhouse, I had to burn it too hot most of the time and ended up warping some panels inside. I have been using my current stove for the last 15 years and love it. It is a Regency clean burn stove that actually re-burns the smoke without having a catyletic burner in the stove. It is advertised as having the most 3/8" steel of any woodburner on the market and is stout at about 600 lbs, but still has that beautiful arched brass front door/window. Most importantly, you need to run a chimney brush though the upright pipe at least 3 times a season and have tile or slate under the stove, and a fireproof wall covering if closer than 3' to any wall. Also, my chimney runs through the drywall and out side about 8' off the ground and then goes up another 20' on the outside of the house and through the eave. At both places where it goes through the wall and the eave, it needs to have a 6" dead air space around the pipe to eliminate hot spots, and a cleanout cap at the bottom of the elbow.

[onewhippedpuppy]

Nope, not a big deal. I've done wood burning, pellet, and gas. The only complexity of wood is venting through the roof, pellet and gas can vent through a sidewall. Seriously consider a high efficiency unit with doors that seal, with a heat exchanger and fan, that pulls the combustion air from the outside, as opposed to pulling warm air from your house into the stove (and out the flue). You'll get significantly more heat, less smoke, less smell, and your logs will last far longer. My in-laws have one in their approximately 7000 sq ft home, it will easily heat the main and upper floor. Simply an insane amount of heat potential.

[regency]

I think there's some Amish dudes that build ( In China ) a nice plug in fireplace. If you act now, you'll just pay for the Shipping & Handling.

1973 911 T MFI Coupe, Aubergine

Steve

[herr_oberst]

Make sure you put it where you want it; I pulled this one out about a year ago because it was in exactly the wrong corner of the house, at least for my purposes.

I'm glad it's gone, but it did keep the living room / kitchen / dining room nice and toasty.

[LakeCleElum]

No, install is not a "big deal".....It does cost a few bux. Get a quote from a local contractor or get the local wood stove store to refer a contractor......U may not have "code" where you are, BUT:

You insurance company will want it installed to code and you will need to add this to your policy. If not, they no PAY when there is a fire........

I could tell you stories of my wood stoves and wood cutting woes, but that's not what you asked....Enjoy

Red Lodge Spas And Recreation

(1)

1102 N Broadway Ave,

Red Lodge, MT 59068

(406) 446-4688

[GWN7]

If you are not looking for heat why not a electric wall mount fireplace?

https://www.google.ca/search?q=electric+fireplace+wall+mount&biw=1360&bih=690&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=Ivt7VIrHPOPasASfnoHYAQ&sqi=2&ved=0CG8QsAQ

[oldE]

It is not complicated, but attention to details will make or break the project.

First thing we did after we were visiting friends and my wife 'fell in love with' their soapstone sheathed wood burner was contact our insurance company to determine what would keep them happy. WET certification is the standard for them. That meant spacing from combustible surfaces and a certified chimney.

A friend is a WET certified inspector and installer and over a cup of coffee gave me the basic guidelines. We chose to put the double walled pipe straight up to the "Selkirk" chimney which passed through the cathedral ceiling.

The chimney install was exactly as they call for it in the manufacturer's instructions.
The stove, because of space considerations required an add-on shield on the rear.
I thought since the stove was sitting on an existing ceramic tile floor all would be well, but code calls for a certain R value. To achieve this I removed 9 tiles in a square, cut out the 1/2 inch plywood subfloor and substituted 1/2 inch cement board. Matching tiles were laid (I had spares from the job 15 years ago) and we were done.

Clean the chimney every six months. Do NOT burn wood which has not dried for at least three seasons.

Regarding the 'dry' nature of wood heat. The reason for this is the air for combustion is drawn from the room in which the stove is installed. This air comes in through openings, cracks, gaps etc. in the house from the outside and it is cold and low in humidity.
Since my house is quite tight, I added an intake to my stove. The manufacturer makes a manifold which bolts to the bottom of the stove and ducting was run from the outside so the air for combustion does not come from inside the house.
This has two benefits. First, the moisture in the air in your house is maintained at a more comfortable level. The second is you are not using air you have heated to combust fuel. Your combustion air can come in through the ducting and it is easier to keep the house comfortable (no drafts).

I must say we have been very happy with the device. We both grew up in farmhouses which had wood heat, but in '77 we lost almost everything in a house fire and my wife was very nervous about using solid fuel. She really drove this move and after the installation was certified, she laid and lit the first fire in our new stove. She is comfortable with it. That is best of all.

Have fun, keep warm.
Les

[ckelly78z]

I used metalbestos stainless steel double wall 4' chimney sections that interlocked all the way through my wall all the way up the outside of my house to about 3' above my peak (for good air draw). After 20 years of use, the chimney is still shiney stainless with no rust or deteriation and is easy to clean from the elbow that comes through the wall (about 8' off the ground outside) with a 6" round chimney brush on 4' screw together fiberglass rods. The chimney has never gotten clogged and only yeilds maybe an inch or two of soot in a five gallon bucket from 30' of pipe. The chimney cap can become encrusted with dried residue and needs to be cleaned also, but is neccesary to keep the birds out.