Value : 2003 BMW M5 50,000 miles

[Macroni]

Always a fan of these cars; I am looking at a clean 50,000 mile example.

1) Value
2) weak spots of the design


Thanks for the help.

[nota]

cooling system ?
replace the hoses and pressure test !!!!!!!!!!!

[greglepore]

Value? I'd estimate 18500 or so.

Weak points-they have usual BMW cooling issues, Vanos actuator issues, front suspension bushings, interior trim less than robust. Nothing that's a deal breaker. They are DIY'able if you're adventurous.

My complaints with mine (2002) were that a)it was a big heavy car that was really only fun at warp velocity on the highway, unlike my E28 M5 b) gas mileage truly sucked, and it has a smallish tank (15 or 17 gal iirc) so you're constantly filling it and c) maintenance is costly-little things like 4 o2 sensors, and the fact that many M parts have an M tax associated.

[will944]

Originally Posted by greglepore

Value? I'd estimate 18500 or so.

Vanos actuator issues.

- I thought the Vanos was a bigger issue on the earlier cars?

I'm also in the market for an E39.....looking to replace my E92 M3

[911SauCy]

Overall, I love my 540...I'd have gone for an M5 if I had the scratch.

Value, greglepore is right on but I have noticed these cars priced all over the board. Seen low mile, 1-owner e39 M5s north of $30k to high mileage but presentable 540/6 at $2500.

Mine is a fantastic daily, I get 22mpg, 6-spd, rwd, lsd...makes for a fun ride to and from work

The PO, only owner, didn't understand the idea of changing oil so he popped the engine at 110k, so it's got a junkyard dawg in there with 90k on it. Runs hard, burns nothing, no leaks.

Most importantly, you can bang wrenches yourself on these cars. "E39 Source" on YouTube is a testament to this. Bunch of Polo toting rich kids with very thorough and helpful DIY videos.

[Macroni]

Originally Posted by 911SauCy

...makes for a fun ride to and from work

Kind of what I had in mind....... Love the earlier M5s but they tend to be too long in tooth for a DD......

[Rot 911]

Only thing I would add is on the cooling system, typical replacement mileage is 80K miles. Hopefully if it is an automatic the transmission fluid was replaced when the car went out of warranty at 50K miles. If not, they can become problematic at 100K miles. And it is not rebuildable. Have to replace it.

[RANDY P]

Carbon fouling of EGR passages, and rod bearings that spin and need replacement under 100K, weak clutches.

BMW non specific include Blower resistor (So easy to swap it's a non issue), cooling system is basically disposable but also, very, very easy to replace,

-broken window regulators, easy 1 hour fix, sunroof support arms fail- you can tell when you put sunroof in open / tilt and it flops up and down- sounds awesome driving down highway going bonk-bonk-bonk over your head. You can get replacement ends for the arms themselves (dirt cheap) if you look carefully. Fussy PITA to replace but easily doable in an hour or so.

-crumbling windshield washer lines underhood on passenger side due to engine heat (get an xacto knife, cut the old hose off the fittings and replace with normal rubber line (4MM hose) from auto parts store- 20 min fix BTDT),

and my personal favorite

-headlight issues such as broken adjusters - you can buy replacement parts on ebay then replace just the broken parts VS new headlights (I CUT my lights open with dremel, then resesaled with silicone, covered by core support you'll never notice it) also, driver's side headlight going out- the ignitor fails.

Blown pixels on dashboard and radio, oh well- the only thing my car DIDN'T have.

ABS module getting fried,

Oh, and PAY ATTENTION on the passenger side of the engine, right behind ABS module (which will die eventually from heat) there are TWO flex lines that feed the braking system made of rubber, right next to the exhaust manifold- can't miss 'em- you guessed it, they eventually fail from heat and you lose brake fluid. All V8 E39's will do it, 10 years, 100k and mine did. The i6 has a heat shield there- go figure.

Seat twist! Try to adjust seat and it twists, permanently!!- Seems dire but easy, easy fix- unbolt seat in question, flip on it's back so you have access underneath seat, and pull out offending seat cable, it's just pushed in place - it's a lot like a speedometer cable, and CUT about 1/2" or so off the cable housing- not the cable itself, but it's housing- the plastic housing expands over time, and causes the cable to detach itself from the motor. I did both sides, all cables since it's inevitable in hot climates. Easy, easy fix.

Chassis is solid, the rest of the car being a BMW means it's a plasticky POS- they LOVE plastic - notice that most of the problems described are due to BMW using plastic. Other than that, they are solid cars

rjp

[911SauCy]

Originally Posted by RANDY P

and my personal favorite

-headlight issues such as broken adjusters - you can buy replacement parts on ebay then replace just the broken parts VS new headlights (I CUT my lights open with dremel, then resesaled with silicone, covered by core support you'll never notice it) also, driver's side headlight going out- the ignitor fails.


rjp

HA! I just ordered DJ Auto full replacements, under $300. The plastic was beyond wet sand repairable, the adjusters were busted when I got it, and the driver's side ignitor started to crap out.

[RANDY P]

Originally Posted by 911SauCy

HA! I just ordered DJ Auto full replacements, under $300. The plastic was beyond wet sand repairable, the adjusters were busted when I got it, and the driver's side ignitor started to crap out.

My parts were under $20 from some bootlegger in Turkey off ebay, same with sunroof parts. LOL.

Lemme know how you like the DJ lights- thought about those but may try to find salvageable OEM's..

rjp

[RANDY P]

I should also reiterate- these issues are all 100+K issues, if the car has 50K and is in a more reasonable climate than say, AZ the car will likely be solid indefinitely. My experiences aren't the type that will leave the car stranded-, in that sense the E39 is loaded with annoyances, but none fatal. I see them as robustly built, solid cars that can easily hit 200K plus with reasonable upkeep.

Well- one time I did manage to dislocate the axle from the pumpkin when I went balls out one day- but that's typical with any BMW that's tracked, or if you treat a 4000LB car like a 911. You have to take a hammer and drift and slip it back into the diff, rare, but it happened to me - ONCE.

If you really want a high maintenance scary experience I recommend an 2004 + Audi S4 V8 with the timing chain BEHIND the engine that typically goes kaput under 100K and requires full engine removal to rectify- see for yourself. In relation to THAT car, ANY E39 s a Honda.

I plan on keeping my 540I until the end of time, or until my next craving which will likely occur in 15 minutes or so...

rjp

PSS- I should also clarify the suspension- I lightly drive my cars, I don't beat on them- the ONLY suspension wear pieces that honestly needed replacement are as follows, on my 530I, owned from 20K to 101K

80K- front control arm bushings. You can tell when the car has a shimmy around 50-60 mph, and / or you tap the brakes suddenly at low, low speed and the steering jerks in your hand. Common problem and easy fix on these cars.

On my 540I, purchased at 140K it had:

replacement meyle solid bushings, probably at 80K- I don't like 'em, but they were in there so I leave them for now.

at 155k I needed new front struts- and THAT'S IT, back were still serviceable, but I replaced them anyhow, All the rest of the ball joints and links, still solid. I replaced my rear ball joints, and rear upper control arm (very easy) not because of joint failure, but the boots tore during my inspection. Had I not done that, I seriously think I would've gotten close to 200K out of the rest of the suspension, including the upper strut mounts and other disposables. Strut replacement is easy, despite what people think- see here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-5-series-e28-e34-e39/792881-freaky-lil-discovery-today-rear-struts-03-m-sport-sachs.html

So, apart from front control arm bushings, and front struts were all my particular car needed. The other parts I replaced like the rear upper control arm, and ball joint were just while I was in there.

My car drives like new, and even my wrench who I go to if things get too hairy is impressed with it's condition and the drive quality.

Rjp

[RANDY P]

While I'm here- how do eliminate FALSE low coolant lights on dash.

In cold weather, these things also will give you LOW COOLANT lights as you drive, mine would do that as I hit an on ramp in cool weather, with heat on- shut car off immediately and turn back on, and coolant warning would go away, so it was lying. No leaks, and coolant level seems OK, and temp needle was perfect, no outward signs of air pockets.

These cars hold air bubbles pretty easy and during summer it may not be noticable since the heater is not in use.

Start by jacking nose up of car, or parking on incline, or both.

IF YOU REPLACED SOMETHING MAJOR IN COOLING SYSTEM- say, radiator- fill radiator thru upper hose inlet, fill upper hose until it can't take any more liquid, reattach and then fill coolant reservoir.

BMW procedure - set heat at 90 / maximum, fan on low- key on, engine OFF- you will hear aux water pump whistle underhood. Undo bleeder screw, and fill coolant reservoir till it's absolutely maxed out at the very top- you'll notice bubbles appearing in the bleed hole. Keep at it for about 15 minutes or so, it takes a while.

After that, when it seems all air is gone reinstall bleed screw, top of reservoir, put cap on, make sure heat still maxed out, and start car.

Idle for about 5 seconds, then build revs to about 3K, then settle down, do that about 4-5 times, this ensures the heater matrix has coolant. Shut off car immediately.

Open cap, and then refill coolant to tip top, and leave cap off overnight, bleed screw stays closed- nose still jacked up to assist bleeding. When you come back, you'll see car drank more coolant and bled itself. I typically check / top off the car every few hours until I go to bed.

The coolant level will likely be overfull slightly after this, but it's OK- a little over won't destroy anything.. If the level is low, then add coolant.

I had serious problems with this low coolant light, and thought the system was bled since I followed the factory steps until I left it cap off overnight. My coolant level is so stable now, never changes day to day since the air is completely gone, and no more BS light. If your coolant level seems to change daily, bleed it.

rjp

[will944]

Looks like I should bookmark this thread for potential maintenance.....haha.

Good input Randy

[Ferraripete]

great car. I have owned my 2003 m5 forever. I have 160k miles on it and it has been my dd.

I have little bad to say about the car. it eats tires though...but that is the fun part. I may finally replace it this summer but I will miss it if I do! good luck in your search!!

pcb

[Ferraripete]

Originally Posted by Macroni

Always a fan of these cars; I am looking at a clean 50,000 mile example.

1) Value
2) weak spots of the design


Thanks for the help.

can you buy it for under $40k?

[Nostril Cheese]

I'd be looking at a 540i instead of the M.

[RANDY P]

Originally Posted by Ferraripete

great car. I have owned my 2003 m5 forever. I have 160k miles on it and it has been my dd.

I have little bad to say about the car. it eats tires though...but that is the fun part. I may finally replace it this summer but I will miss it if I do! good luck in your search!!

pcb

ever since I redid the back of mine and got it aligned i even stopped suffering from camber wear- like a new BMW.

I think what happens is over time, natural sag changes the alignment. 10K on my new tires, perfectly even.

rjp

[L8Brakr]

Love my M5. Bought it three years ago with 45,000 miles. Put about 5,000 miles per year on it. No issues, except for a rear wheel speed sensor, the aforementioned FSU blower resistor, and a faulty fuel vapor purge valve. All easily DIY. Purge valve did require removing the plenum.

If you are looking at a 2003 model, sub 50,000 miles for 18,500 that is clean, accident free, and unmodified, buy it immediately or it will be gone within 24-48 hours of being listed for sale. I'd say a fair private sale number would be $25,000 to $28,000 depending on colors, options, condition (new tires, clutch, etc.

At less than 20k, a specialist out of Ohio (Enthusiast Auto Group @ www.enthusiastauto.com ), will have cash in hand faster than you can get arrange a PPI. They will bring the car to their dealership, spit and polish every nick and cranny, and then re-list it in the mid to high thirties.

I lost several cars to them when I was shopping. You have to be quick on a 2002, 2003 model that has low miles and a clean history. EAG won't buy 2000-2001 models.

Clean low mile E39 M5s have been slowly appreciating the last few years.....not air-cooled 911 appreciation, but they are slowly moving up as they become more rare.

Good luck! I'm sure you will enjoy it if you buy a good one. Like a Porsche, buy the best you can afford, avoid the neglected or abused, and you should be fine.

Edit- All the help you could ever need can be found at M5board.com. Great DIY how-to's and a tremendous knowledge base for these cars.

[Ferraripete]

Originally Posted by L8Brakr

Love my M5. Bought it three years ago with 45,000 miles. Put about 5,000 miles per year on it. No issues, except for a rear wheel speed sensor, the aforementioned FSU blower resistor, and a faulty fuel vapor purge valve. All easily DIY. Purge valve did require removing the plenum.

If you are looking at a 2003 model, sub 50,000 miles for 18,500 that is clean, accident free, and unmodified, buy it immediately or it will be gone within 24-48 hours of being listed for sale. I'd say a fair private sale number would be $25,000 to $28,000 depending on colors, options, condition (new tires, clutch0 etc.

At less than 20k, a specialist out of Ohio (Enthusiast Auto Group @ www.enthusiastauto.com ), will have cash in hand faster than you can get arrange a PPI. They will bring the car to their dealership, spit and polish every nick and cranny, and then re-list it in the mid to high thirties.

I lost several cars to them when I was shopping. You have to be quick on a 2002, 2003 model that has low miles and a clean history. EAG won't buy 2000-2001 models.

Clean low mile E39 M5s have been slowly appreciating the last few years.....not air-cooled 911 appreciation, but they are slowly moving up as they become more rare.

Good luck! I'm sure you will enjoy it if you buy a good one. Like a Porsche, buy the best you can afford, avoid the neglected or abused, and you should be fine.

Edit- All the help you could ever need can be found at M5board.com. Great DIY how-to's and a tremendous knowledge base for these cars.

what he said!

[Macroni]

Originally Posted by Ferraripete

can you buy it for under $40k?

yes.