2000+ Boxster S...how to buy one

[Shaun @ Tru6]

A good friend of mine had a C3 years ago, he sold that and hasn't had a car since. He wants a Boxster S now. I'm looking at this one for him since it's a mile away:

2000 Porsche Boxster S — Detail » Inventory » P.R. Automotive Imports

We'd have a proper shop PPI done (which several friends have had done using reputable shops and major problems were missed and then found after purchase) but what do you look for in buying a Boxster? I drove a 2003 S in August and it was a fantastic car, had all records. What records/repairs should you expect/want to see and which do you not?

[recycled sixtie]

What to look for? Before starting engine turn on ignition and make sure all caution lights light up especially the CEL one.

Check for unusual noise on start up. Smooth idle. Does the clutch feel okay - not too heavy? Take for a long drive as the codes could have been reset and may not resurface until later.

Don't forget that you are dealing with a 15 year old car. Check the service history.
Even though mileage is low coolant tank if it has not been replaced won't last forever.
Water pump? Likely IMS has not been replaced? Rear main seal? Check for oil mist/leak on underside of engine.

I would get the PPI shop to check oil filter for metal/plastic. Accident damage?

This list is not exhaustive but these things come to mind.

Cheers, Guy

[Robert Adams]

Hi Shaun,

PPIs aren't quite the inexpensive exercise they used to be. Before going to the PPI, check that all records are up to date and the oil/filter changes have been done at or around 3000 mile intervals.
As far as the PPI, I know my mechanic at the least would have an oil change done and cut the filter to checked/tested for debris.
I would also know going in that at least two items will need to be addressed; IMS & RMS. They aren't as scary as people make them out to be, but if you think you won't need to do them, he should buy something else. I know the %s say this problem is like roulette, but having them fixed is peace of mind that the Boxster will be around a long time.
Lots written on the subject of what can go wrong with these cars and low mileage ones are the most vulnerable. The price difference between a Boxster that has this work done and one that hasn't isn't always that much. If it were me, I'd hunt for one that has already had the work done or buy one that hasn't at a 'good' price and have it done.
There are also differences in the IMS fixes. NNJR had a very informative IMS seminar given by Jay Coates at a PCA meeting recently, that separated myth from reality. Recommend reading. The Popular Mechanic European Import Automotive Repair

HAPPY SHOPPING, GREAT CARS!
Rob

[Rot 911]

Personally, this link was really the most useful to me in getting educated on the 986's before buying mine: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages

[onewhippedpuppy]

I fail to see why people get worked up about the RMS. If they leak, it's typically a seep. Very rarely they will leak heavily and need immediate replacement. The seal is around $20 and you have to drop the transmission. Not the end of the world, especially in Porsche terms.

IMS has been beaten to death, not much more to say. My personal opinion is that it does happen but is rare, and I would recommend replacing the bearing when you do the clutch. Change the oil regularly, look for metal in the filter, and enjoy.

Overall they are really robust cars. Stuff that I would say is a bonus if it's already been replaced, but not a deal breaker:

Water pump - seem to last about 100k, typically leak before failure
Air oil seperator (AOS) - will cause excessive vacuum in the crankcase and typically lots of smoke
Window regulators - seem to fail by 100k
Top rear window - prior to 2003 the top rear window was plastic, and they tend to get hazy and hard, eventually cracking. Especially common if you use the top on a cold day when the plastic is stiff. The glass rear window on the 2003+ is a huge improvement, and has a defroster as well.
Suspension - the primary bushings are really robust, but the sway bar links do eventually fail. Struts seem good for about 80k, sometimes they leak and sometimes they just get soggy.

The major service is 60k, and includes filters, plugs, brake fluid, serpentine belt, and fuel filter on the pre-2003 cars. All easy to do. Overall they are fantastic cars and really quite reliable.