Ok guys, What do we think of this Fluke model for all-around non-professional use for me:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004I2ZSLC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=314V ER65WE80Y&coliid=IU0FS62E542JS

Any Porsche guy worth is salt would have this Fluke kit...

Fluke 88V/A Automotive Multimeter Combo Kit | TEquipment.NET

disregard

This one was popular among the rest of the electricians when I was working as a commercial wireman. The probe diameter can cause difficulty working in tight quarters with some meters and you may not be able to get the probe on smaller pins and sockets etc. This one appears to have replaceable leads (a good thing) and you can purchase thinner leads of you find a need for them.

Wow. That's nice. Price on Amazon is $432 vs over $600 at your link. I agree and had concerns that the clamp might be too big for automotive use in tight spaces on the other model I posted.

Wow, I never knew a multimeter could be $600.
Does it have some insane feature that a $20 could never do?
Or is it just more accurate?

I figure a weekend driveway mechanic mostly does connectivity and voltage tests.
Connectivity to test a break in a wire and voltage to test a switch (is the device getting power)
For these 2, you don't need insane micro accuracy, you can even use analog.

It is easy to give an example of when you need a $600 MM (or even $150)?
Curious where a $15 MM falls short.

i have been an electronics tech for the FAA since 1990. before i did some electrical work cars for a shop. i/we used a test light for the majority of the electrical work. the MM was mainly used for charging issues or to maybe to check a batt, but then we had a batt tester that could put a load on it to test it.

a MM can be misleading. i have been part of several posts here were guys were measuring 12v with their MM but could not figure out why the circuit still did not work. ( like a break light, or turn light).
a MM does not need much if any current to measure 12v. there were bad connections that prevented enough current from turning on a brake light or operating what ever it was they were working, but the MM read 12v.
putting a test light on that circuit would have shown that there was not enough current in the circuit because the TL needs more current than the MM does. look at it like this. if the circuit won light the TL, it wont light a brake light or turn light.

$100 for a MM
$10 for TL

^^ I tend to agree. If you don't really understand what you are looking for, a really good quality meter is no better than a $20 Radio Shack MM. For mostly 12VDC work a test light is fast and cheap, and tells you everything you probably need to know. I see a lotta guys run out and buy a Durametric to diagnose their CEL and quickly get bogged down by TMI. Paralysis by analysis.

With a test light you trace the circuit until you get no light. Why did it stop here? Cause a mouse ate the wires coming through the firewall? Fixed!

Hell... I've never done anything that my free harbor freight multimeter wouldn't do the trick for..... And I've worked on some fairly expensively large electronics.

Honestly my cheap Craftsman meter I've had for years has worked OK for what I have needed it for. I guess since it has crapped out and I need a new one I just figured it might be time to buy a nice one. Maybe for what I need it for a pricey Fluke is a bit much I agree, but then again I do like nice tools.

The HF meters are under $10 and occasionally free with a coupon.... Just saying.


Growing up in the sign biz, gravity usually killed tools faster than anything else. You learn sometimes the cheap tools are good enough.

I have a 16 year old Fluke 16 that I used in HVAC.
I used it as well diagnosing wiring issues on my old SC.

I agree. What the OP stated as his 'need' and where he is headed are not aligned. But it appears he wants to own a very good meter. So be it.

I suspect we have all spent more then necessary on tools at some point in our life.

Hush!

Banish the thought.

Ok, everyone my name is Glen and I am a tool-aholic. I just need a few more tools and then..... I will need just a few more. ;)

I have 3 or 4 MMs in my toolbox. I can only use one at a time. Over the years, when I came across an extra, I scarfed it up. If you want one, lemmeno.

I have been in electronics for years professionally. I use my Fluke 87 and a Simpson 260 at work. Over the years I have acquired a few used Fluke 77s and a Simpson 260 to keep at the house and in the cars. A little overkill, but good deals are hard to pass up. The digital meters are very convenient and easy to use. The analog meters will show change better with the needle if you know how to use them. Sometimes this is handy.

I totally recommend the Fluke meters as well as the 40 year old Simpson. They always work and work well. If you can find one used, go for it. I found my home Simpson 260 at a garage sale for $20.00. I had to take it apart and clean off the corrosion from old leaky batteries. Now I change batteries in all my meters every MLK day when I drain and fill my hot water heater.

I would take a ration of sh&#$$% from coworkers if I had one at work, but for a home garage a Harbor Freight multimeter is probably just fine. You are probably mostly looking for 12vdc, 120 or 220vac, continuity, and occasional resistance readings. None of those are critical enough measurements to justify a high dollar meter.

Question:

Answer:

For my bench work, almost all of my meters are Fluke. The one exception is that I keep a Simpson 260-8 analog meter on the bench also because there are some situations where a digital meter cannot do what the analog can.

My friends dad (RIP) gifted me his heathkit MM and analog O-scope {need to get on cleaning and re-caping those}.

Having said that Fluke here at work (75III) and Beckman at home.