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Takin' hard left turns
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,412
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Need help designing my home network
I’ve got a fairly typical home network setup. Cox cable to cable modem, to wireless router. Hard wires to desktop computer, TiVo, Blu-Ray, and to a hub in another room. Hub has nothing connected currently.
Wi-Fi has 2 iPads, 2 S5 phones, Raspberry Pi, various family phones when they visit. I’ve also given the password to our neighbors so they can piggyback onto our wireless network if they can get a signal. I see they've got three or four devices connected. I’m using WPA2-SK2 authentication and I’ve changed the router username and password, but that’s the extent of my protection. Physically, the modem, Wi-Fi, and desktop are in the far corner of the house, so Wi-Fi coverage gets to about the living room but not much more. I think it’s time to reconfigure things. I will be installing several smart devices over the coming months and I need solid Wi-Fi everywhere, including outdoors. I want to isolate guests from the home computer so we don’t get viruses coming in from the neighbors or kids who log on. Maybe it makes sense to add a NAS for photos & music and strip the home computer down to just a terminal. I’m looking for recommendations. Given a budget of ~$500, what would you recommend? |
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The Unsettler
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How much coax is running in the house?
Do you have a drop on the other side where coverage is lacking?
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"I want my two dollars" "Goodbye and thanks for the fish" "Proud Member and Supporter of the YWL" "Brandon Won" |
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Takin' hard left turns
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,412
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The Unsettler
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Perfect.
Use MoCA routers / extenders. http://www.actiontec.com/products/14.php Are you by chance a T-Mobile customer?
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"I want my two dollars" "Goodbye and thanks for the fish" "Proud Member and Supporter of the YWL" "Brandon Won" |
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Takin' hard left turns
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,412
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Not a T-Mobile customer.
Interesting link. I bought an extender recently that plugged into an outlet in the hallway, but was told although it extended the range it halved the bandwidth. I want something that allows full-bore throughput as well as 100% coverage. Also, getting signals over the entire property is important. I will be installing Wi-Fi enabled nodes around the property (shed, pool pump, irrigation) so bullet-proof connection is important. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,366
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Find a central drop that has power available. Run an ethternet cable from your cable modem (at one of your2 coax places) back to the router.
Run ethernet from the router to various places in the house to put wireless access points so you'll have good coverage everywhere adn outside. Run ethernet from there to "fixed" locations for connectivity - behind the TV, to your desktops, etc. That takes care of connecting... now to secure it. You want your neighbors on a different subnet with no route to your subnet. You want house guests on a 3rd subnet (probably). Perhaps put your printer into a place where both your stuff and any guests that come by can reach it. Fun thinking process... think my students have a new lab to do next week. If I see any truly amazing results from them I'll post back |
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The Unsettler
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MoCA will get you full gigabit to the router.
From there you want the latest generation a/c router. Apple AirPort Extreme or my personal go to favorite the ASUS series. They are a bit spendy and will eat half your budget. I asked about T-Mobile because they offer their customers a private label version of the ASUS for free or at worst a $25 deposit. It's a $300 retail unit. Not in the office right now and can offer more detail later.
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"I want my two dollars" "Goodbye and thanks for the fish" "Proud Member and Supporter of the YWL" "Brandon Won" |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Sweden
Posts: 5,911
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"Extenders" aren't optimal as they basically work in half-duplex...they "listen" then "talk". It cuts the WiFi bandwidth in half. If you have slow Intertube connection and no local devices that talk to each other then extender might be OK. We have 100/100Mbit FTTH connection and use it a lot, so I opted to solved it this way:
One powerful router connected to Interwebs, to act as main NAT-router. (This router supports 801.11n/ac and has both 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands). Parallel to "house" network, I also configured a separate WiFI guest network on 2.4GHz band that guests/neighbours can use. This network cannot talk to our home network, so it is strictly for Intertubes. As main router cannot cover whole house with WiFi signal, I have bought two cheaper/less powerful routers (but still 801.11ac-capable), connected both to main router via 1Gbit Ethernet cat5e and bridged them so they work as dumb access points. They also have built-in 4-port switches and double as fringe switches for stuff than needs to be wired. When all three routers were up and running, I configured same SSID on all of them (so devices can roam from router to router) and paid great attention to use separate WiFi channels on each and every device (so they do not interfere with each other). iPhones/Ipads/laptops will roam and latch to whatever signal is strongest. Istuff will cling to weak signals longer, but laptops can be configured to roam more aggressively. That is my "cheap and dirty" way to get a good coverage for reasonable amount of money. There are also much more fancy Ubiquity Access Points that handle roaming and handover better, but they are 10x the price of my solution.
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Thank you for your time, Last edited by beepbeep; 02-18-2016 at 01:37 PM.. |
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The Unsettler
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Quote:
Restrict your 5 Ghz to N devices and leave 2.4 open for a/b/g.
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"I want my two dollars" "Goodbye and thanks for the fish" "Proud Member and Supporter of the YWL" "Brandon Won" |
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Takin' hard left turns
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,412
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Quote:
I could see placing a router in the hall closet and running two CAT5 to there: one from the cable modem, one return to the computer. I could run four more CAT5 from the router: one to the living room for an Ethernet drop, and three Wi-Fi AP's. ![]() How many separate and distinct SSID's could I have? Is that what is meant by different subnets? Quote:
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The Unsettler
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Everything else works the same. I have 5 routers running in my house, four as AP's. 3 of them are MoCA.
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"I want my two dollars" "Goodbye and thanks for the fish" "Proud Member and Supporter of the YWL" "Brandon Won" |
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It'll be legen-waitforit
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 7,008
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First, I would never let my neighbours run on our systems; what if they are into child porn, hacking, illegal downloads, etc. Prove to the FBI/Police it's not you....
Second I can't help at all with that budget
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Bob James 06 Cayman S - Money Penny 18 Macan GTS Gone: 79 911SC, 83 944, 05 Cayenne Turbo, 10 Panamera Turbo |
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Takin' hard left turns
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,412
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Quote:
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Takin' hard left turns
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,412
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Quote:
We also have some signal boosters on our line, and I don't know what we have in the way of filters - all of this installed by Cox. The splitter at the front of the house is a pretty bulky affair and doesn't look like splitters you see at Home Depot. Is this really as plug and play as it sounds? |
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It'll be legen-waitforit
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 7,008
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You could also use Ethernet over Powerline, I have no experience with the products but it's been around a while
Best power-line adapters of 2016 - CNET
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Bob James 06 Cayman S - Money Penny 18 Macan GTS Gone: 79 911SC, 83 944, 05 Cayenne Turbo, 10 Panamera Turbo |
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The Unsettler
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Quote:
It's rock solid. The splitter you have at the front which you describe as large is most likely a diplexer. Diplexers are used when you need to combine two signals, think satellite and cable tv, over the same coax run. A diplexer is a way to run two distinct signals over the same wire without them conflicting. Should be one on the other end to split it back out again. If not it's not a diplexer. Take a picture. The only consideration is to make sure your splitters are rated for 1 GHZ.
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"I want my two dollars" "Goodbye and thanks for the fish" "Proud Member and Supporter of the YWL" "Brandon Won" |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.
Posts: 21,133
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Great advice from the others, and I am not a networking guru, but for what it's worth, not only would I never open my network to outsiders, I also don't broadcast the network name. At a rental property, I broadcast a sub-net, give the tenants a password for that, and change it once a year. As for a NAS, thare may be better options now, but I have 2 Synology boxes. One at home, another at my office, and they automatically 'clone' their data. I can also sync subfolders with folders on my laptop, so if I am away from home or office, data syncs through the net. Been rock-solid for the last 5+ years. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Sweden
Posts: 5,911
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Quote:
I used TP-Link Archer C2 as edge switches/AP's. They cost 40$ a piece and support 801.11a/b/g/n/ac (albeit not the highest ac-speed standard, but still plenty enough). You could also configure them to act as repeaters, but optimal solution is to wire them to main router. If you want this done well, you will need to run at least one Cat5e to every AP. I pulled out phone cable from walls and managed to pull trough enough Cat5e to cover all rooms in true star-manner. Check if there are some pipes you can use. For main router I use Archer C7, as it can route packages up to 1Gbit/s.
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Thank you for your time, Last edited by beepbeep; 02-18-2016 at 10:40 PM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Sweden
Posts: 5,911
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Quote:
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Thank you for your time, |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Växjö Sweden/Hannover Germany
Posts: 1,135
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+1000
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