Wood table question

[gprsh924]

I have a wood top coffee table I bought from west elm a few years ago. It was a very light color that went with my old condo. Last year, I decided to stain it (originally unstained) a darker color to go with my new place. I prepped the surface, stained it and added a coat of polyurethane. Im not a huge diy guy so while it didn't look perfect, it looked much better than before.

Fast forward to now.... there are several areas of the table that are starting to get a milky white haze. From far away it seems like the table is dusty, but even after wiping/cleaning the whitish areas remain. Any tips or ideas on how to correct?

Not a huge deal and I am having my first kid in a few months, so the table will probably take some abuse, but if its easy to improve now, I'll give it a shot.

Thanks

[look 171]

Water damage? Water gets under the clear coat and turns it white or when drying too much moisture in the air? How bout' a pic?

[intakexhaust]

Difficult to know exactly whats causing the change but usually a milky haze is from moisture entrapment. Whats the environment where used? This perhaps also from being wet from something obvious (ex. glass of water spill) to other less obvious as in a higher humidity area. If the case and being you top coated with a polyurethane, that should have sufficiently sealed it.

Other thoughts. Is there some reaction happening from the stain and what if any recommended type of top coat? Guessing the stain could be some type of water base and for wood to constantly breath, rather than seal. Some are not compatible with a urethane.

To fix? Tough call without seeing. Depends how picky you are and what you wish to achieve in a final appearance. You might have to fully strip it, and start over. Hopefully this milky haze isn't too deep.

I'm not a fan of messy chemical stripping and usually rip at it with a variable speed orbital sander. Connect a vac to the sander. If you don't have one, Harbor Freight is the DIY deal. Try a 150 grit (though might need a 100) to cut thru the topcoat. Final and prep sand to 220 grit. Wipe with a tack cloth.

Try Minwax oil based and hand applied stain to the desired effect. Let it set overnight. For the polyurethane, brush on a light coat and let it set for another day. You'll probably see some pinholes or bubbles. You don't need to get too fancy but use a 3M scuff pad - green and go with the grains. Tack cloth off the residual and do another poly coat. If necessary, repeat a third time.

I'm a fan of spraying two-part urethane's. HVLP sprayers are the ticket. Atomized material thats less wasted in the air and gets this nasty stuff down to the surface. Can touch by hand in a bit over 15 min. Can also sand by orbital with a 220 grit in a half hour. Then spray a second coat and its usually done. Fast job.

[1990C4S]

I have a table that goes milky if if I leave anything damp on it. I just use a warm iron on the surface with a towel in-between and I can clear up the finish.

[john70t]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

I have a table that goes milky if if I leave anything damp on it.

That's the water-based poly. The oil doesn't do that.

[Icemaster]

Water or oil based poly? Did you poly it on all sides/surfaces or just the top?

[Charles Freeborn]

Generally one doesn't stain over top of finish. That's a process that we call "glazing" or "tinting" which is stain mixed in with clear finish.
Your table came from the factory with a catalyzed urethane (nearly all production furniture is finished this way). Depending on what finish you used, and it's compatibility with the original finish you may have a reaction or loss of adhesion going on. To remedy you'll need to start over by sanding to bare wood, then stain, then finish.
I like to use sanders that hook up to a HEPA vacuum, and then stick with one brand of stain and finish. I've been using General Finishes gel products lately. Look good, very durable and easy to work with. IMHO & experience Varathane is crap.
Charles Freeborn | Fine Furniture

[gprsh924]

The table was originally bare wood. There were some stains and water spots from use. They still were visible after staining, but it gave it a patina I liked. I used a Minwax oil based stain and oil based poly.

Here are two pictures where you can see some of the cloudiness. It is used as a dining table many nights, but always with coasters. And there is discoloration in areas where no food or drinks are ever set. I stained the top and sides, but not the bottom.

In these pics, the cloudy areas show up best around the vase and remote holder.

[Icemaster]

Ok, what kind of prep did you do to the table before staining and finishing? Cleaned with something after? Did you apply and wipe the stain or just apply? How log did you give it between stain and poly?

I'm seeing some at the edge of the table (right side) in the top picture, is that the same issue?

[john70t]

I've used the Minwax oil and love it, but never seen that.
-Maybe the stain wasn't dry enough when the poly went on, so it's lifting?
-Or bad batch of poly was frozen while in delivery to store?

Try some Old English for dark wood in a small corner spot and see if the color comes back.

[Icemaster]

Originally Posted by john70t

-Maybe the stain wasn't dry enough when the poly went on, so it's lifting?

That'd be my first bet. Or some dust left behind, didn't adhere properly.

You can try some of the Howard's product, Finish Restorer or Restore a Finish - can't remember which, but if it's a separation you'll probably have to sand and re-apply.

Minwax isn't bad stuff, I've used it as well but the Helmsman products have performed best for me. YMMV though.

[sammyg2]

[gprsh924]

I'll try some Old English.

I did the staining over a year ago and didn't notice anything until the last week or so. I sanded the table before applying the stain (stain and wipe) let it sit for a night or two, sanded again (per the instructions), then did the poly. Maybe it wasn't dry enough.

It just seems surprising that the problem wouldn't appear sooner. Thanks for the advice guys.

[Heel n Toe]

Did you put poly on all facets, but especially the bottom (of the top surface)?

If it isn't sealed completely, the moisture could be entering that way.

[ZOO]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

I have a table that goes milky if if I leave anything damp on it. I just use a warm iron on the surface with a towel in-between and I can clear up the finish.

This.