Anything to worry about?

[speeder]

Originally Posted by yetibone

Now that was funny.

Maybe you could hold onto the dipstick holder with a long piece of vacuum line stuffed thru the dipstick hole, and take the big nut loose that attaches the holder in the side of the pan to open up a bigger hole to go fishing in. I know, its very risky, losing the dipstick holder into the bottom of the pan, and the windage baffle will be in the way, but it's an idea. just make sure the vacuum line is large enough diameter to stay in the hole with some friction.

I've done this on 7.3's to replace the o-ring between the holder and the pan with the engine in the truck.

That's actually not a bad idea. Thanks!

[yetibone]

Use a lil 3M weatherstrip adhesive to hold the o-ring in it's groove when you put it back together.

Good luck!

[speeder]

I tried the vacuum and compressed air, ( separate and together), no luck. I'm now cycling clean oil through it w drain plug removed, nothing yet.

I also did an experiment and determined that it will not float, it sinks to the bottom of a cup of oil immediately.

[Dansvan]

What yetibone said.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/629473-oil-leak-at-dipstick-tube-flange-fixed-with-pics.html

[LEAKYSEALS951]

More redneck engineering(if you haven't done so already)
Don't just pour fluid into hole and let it drain.
Using the lightest viscosity fluid you can find (and are willing to put in engine without hurting it)- put oil drain plug back into pan. Fill as much as you can (In the case of kerosene (which was suggested) fill as much as you dare before it reaches a level where it will soak the lower crankshaft arms/ assembly grease), then remove plug and let it drain at once. In the case of oil- you can fill it higher, but the idea is when the plug gets pulled, you want the fluid to flow as quickly as possible (I say this under the assumption kerosene would attack the assembly grease- but if it doesn't, then fill it higher).


While this is happening- get a muffler splitter (or some tool that vibrates) and a 6x6/ 4x4 chunk of sacrificial wood or something. Put a blunt side of the wood against the engine, and then hammer the muffler splitter into the side of the wood. The muffler splitter will trash the wood, but should vibrate the engine with no damage to engine. Perhaps an impact wrench set at a low setting against a noncritical bolt such as an engine mount bolt or something so it rat-tat-tats. Not slow hits like a mallet- just a very light high frequency vibration which might get something to move.

Do this all at once, with one foot in the air. Spend no more than 3 minutes on this!

[speeder]

I ran out of time, (and patience), and installed the engine. I'm working on a deadline to get this truck and a bunch of other stuff buttoned up so that I can leave town. It will come out in an oil change eventually, or not. I really don't care and the engine won't know it's in there.

[aigel]

Just run the damn thing already. Obvoiusly you aren't anal enough to pull the pan ... I can't see a way this would tank the motor ...

G

[asphaltgambler]

I have quite the experience with this engine T444E. Mechanically almost bulletproof. You would be surprised at what stuff I find that eventually makes its way to the oil pan. I would not give it a second thought, just let it be. 99% chance it will lay in the bottom most area of the pan and not deteriorate even over a very loooooong period of time. I promise you nothing bad will happen.

If the oil pan is not leaking where it is sealed, again don't worry about it. Pulling that pan means destroying it in the removal process as the OE sealant sets up like concrete.........literally. If you have further questions feel free to PM me.

[sammyg2]

In it's current form I can't see it as an issue. but it depends on what material it is made of.

If it's buna or viton it's fine in oil.
if its neoprene or similar it would eventually swell, get soft and gooey, and given time could turn into something bad.
If it were me (and we're glad it's not) I'd drop an identical spare plug in some motor oil and let it sit for a few weeks and see if it changes at all.
If it doesn't, you're good to go.

[speeder]

Originally Posted by sammyg2

In it's current form I can't see it as an issue. but it depends on what material it is made of.

If it's buna or viton it's fine in oil.
if its neoprene or similar it would eventually swell, get soft and gooey, and given time could turn into something bad.
If it were me (and we're glad it's not) I'd drop an identical spare plug in some motor oil and let it sit for a few weeks and see if it changes at all.
If it doesn't, you're good to go.

That's a good idea, thanks.

I'm still hoping it comes out in an oil change. Picture 4 gallons of scalding hot oil pouring out, the consistency of water at that temp. It has to come out.

Right?

[speeder]

Originally Posted by asphaltgambler

I have quite the experience with this engine T444E. Mechanically almost bulletproof. You would be surprised at what stuff I find that eventually makes its way to the oil pan. I would not give it a second thought, just let it be. 99% chance it will lay in the bottom most area of the pan and not deteriorate even over a very loooooong period of time. I promise you nothing bad will happen.

If the oil pan is not leaking where it is sealed, again don't worry about it. Pulling that pan means destroying it in the removal process as the OE sealant sets up like concrete.........literally. If you have further questions feel free to PM me.

Thanks. The saving grace is that it's definitely in bottom of pan already and I see no way for it to move elsewhere, other than get stuck to the screen and it's way too small to block any flow.

[sammyg2]

Originally Posted by speeder

That's a good idea, thanks.

I'm still hoping it comes out in an oil change. Picture 4 gallons of scalding hot oil pouring out, the consistency of water at that temp. It has to come out.

Right?

Yep, I don't see why it wouldn't unless you have one of those fancy pans with windage baffles or such.

[speeder]

It has a huge windage tray(?), but it's flat and horizontal w large holes in it. Picture a swimming pool cover w lots of holes, if the oil pan was a pool. Not sure exactly what it's for.

It does not have any vertical barrier type baffles like a high performance car.

[speeder]

Experiment started. I will check it when I get back to town in a few weeks and report my findings. Hopefully, it still looks like this:

[sammyg2]

Originally Posted by speeder

It has a huge windage tray(?), but it's flat and horizontal w large holes in it. Picture a swimming pool cover w lots of holes, if the oil pan was a pool. Not sure exactly what it's for.

It does not have any vertical barrier type baffles like a high performance car.

The windage tray keeps the oil from splashing up into the rotating parts and creating drag and the resulting frothing.
Simple but they do a pretty good job of it.
Hope it works out.

[pavulon]

shouldn't this plug experiment include heat cycles?

[speeder]

Originally Posted by pavulon

shouldn't this plug experiment include heat cycles?

Now you're making me meshuga.

[Baz]

Wouldn't hurt to delete this thread at some point either....you know.....just in case....

[cstreit]

Heat and time disintegrate the plug. Small bits get sucked in to oil system. Caught by filter? Fine. Jammed into a bearing oil galley? Not fine.

Trace your oil circuit. If it always goes through a full flow filter, no worries. If not? Start scraping adhesive..

[Don Ro]

Cut a hole in the pan, remove plug, weld hole.