|
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 7,806
|
Next Project, seeking advice: Channel Drain
My garage has sagged over it's 70 year life and water tends to pool up in the front left corner. Water will stay out of the garage until I open the door and then I will have a 1" puddle in the corner about 24-36" diameter. To combat this, I added a garage door threshold that has a 1" bump and this helps a lot.
To really help with this problem, I am going to add a 4" channel drain along the entire front of the garage area of my house. The water will then be routed to a planter bed that has a drain that slopes out to the street. My Questions: Directions state that I must have 4" of concrete under the drain and 4" on each side (if cars drive over drain - that's a yes). Should I be adding rebar to this concrete? It's a small section but want to do this correctly. My driveway is asphalt. Can use my existing concrete saw blade to cut this or is there a special blade for asphalt? One side of the new concrete will be the cement garage, the other side will be the existing asphalt driveway. What is the best way for framing this newly poured concrete or would you just use the existing edges of the garage/driveway? Since I don't want to create a gap between new concrete and existing (by pulling framing boards out), I was thinking of using something very thin, like galvanized flashing or something. I'm seeking advice, especially on the last item. I can do pretty much anything but seem to learn a lot from guys that have already done this. Thanks, in advance... |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
I'll take a crack at this:
- I'd say no... probably overkill. You could probably get away with that wire mesh, but I'm sure other folks will tell you otherwise. - pretty sure you need a different blade for asphalt... I did. Nail some 2x4 into the asphalt to act as a guide for the saw. That way you'll get a straight cut. - Just use the existing edges.
__________________
Silver '88 RoW Carrera Grey '06 A4 Avant |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 7,806
|
Agreed on the rebar. I meant some kind of wire mesh.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Rebar is cheap. Why not use it? You need this stuff in the concrete to concrete joint.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WAPFS6/ref=asc_df_B004WAPFS65252349/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B004WAPFS6&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167152358566&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4234788043120559528&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015764&hvtargid=pla-312309124063
__________________
. |
||
|
|
|
|
Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.
Posts: 21,141
|
Quote:
__________________
Political polls are often to give you an opinion, not to find out what your opinion is - Scott Adams |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 11,758
|
As a general rule, there is no such thing as too much rebar, only not enough.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: outta here
Posts: 53,954
|
Use half-inch rebar, not mesh. I'd probably go 6 inches wide on the concrete on the sides of the channel. You may be able to use your existing blade, depending on how thick and how old the asphalt is. I would try it first, before I'd go buy another blade. You definitely want to make sure that you saw in a straight line. You may or may not want to use expansion joints between the existing and the new, it somewhat depends on what kind of shape they are in. You might also give some thought to how your property is graded, most houses are put onto lots that are not properly graded so that you have positive drainage away from the house all the way around it.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.
Posts: 21,141
|
If you can't fix low spot in slab, my comments are below in red:
Quote:
__________________
Political polls are often to give you an opinion, not to find out what your opinion is - Scott Adams |
||
|
|
|
|
The Stick
|
My garage does the same thing, because the garage has settled. About 8 ft out the driveway cracked and kinda followed the settling so the drive slopes from 8ft out gradually to the garage which is now level with edge of the driveway. To fix mine I plan to just redo the concrete drive so it slopes properly away from the two car garage. Will cost about the same as trying to put in a french drain anyway.
__________________
Richard aka "The Stick" 06 Cayenne S Titanium Edition |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
Posts: 17,321
|
use concrete with fiber in it.
__________________
86 930 94kmiles [_ _] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:01 suburban 330K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:RACE CAR:: sold |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: outta here
Posts: 53,954
|
Always a good idea for small sections, especially when you're buying a minimum quantity of concrete anyway. It doesn't finish as nicely for a highly finished surface but you don't want that in a driveway, anyway. It's known as fiber mesh, to most concrete companies.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 7,806
|
Lots of good ideas - Thanks!
If I were smarter, I would have leveled the garage before I epoxy'd the floor. Well, it is what it is and I will continue with the channel drain. I'm fortunate to have a drain nearby that I can tap into. I'm not sure if I can finish this by Thanksgiving weekend but I'm going to try; fortunately, it's not at my house this year
|
||
|
|
|
|