Yea, I agree about the OSB and moisture thing.

About tempered hardboard (masonite), I just read that there are five different grades, and one of them doesn't like paint.

https://harborsales.net/Portals/0/docs/hardboard_what_is_it.pdf

In lieu of reinventing the wheel or taking every project as an opportunity to do something a little different, our original poster might be better served finding something already proven in the field.

If he plans to weld or have sawdust everywhere that might cling to trim boards or get stuck in reveals, then these factors shall rule his design solution.

Our detached garage has it painted and it looks pretty bad after several years here in Wisconsin. The PO did it and I would bit the bullet and do something better. Or drop steel or something over it.

I had not thought of that. I am going to look into it.

Thanks!

Mark- by roofing panels do you mean the "5-V" sheetmetal panels like used for a barn roof?

The painted OSB in my garage (post #3) is over 10 years old. No warping, peeling, or discoloring.
It still looks like the day it was painted. I would def do it again.

Steve, what is on the ceiling to make it so reflective?

It's foil backed 1 inch styrofoam sheets. Very easy to attach and helps a lot to keep the heat in.

And you taped the joints with reflective tape. Looks good.
All the insulation board sold in the big-box stores have printing all over them. They are not plain like yours. Where'd you find it?

I bought mine from a local building supply outlet. They delivered enough 4X8 sheets to do my 32X40 garage for less than $300 (10 yrs ago)
I think the name of the place was Foam Plus..not sure of that..

This is what we are doing over the OSB. Will be far more durable.

Neither would OSB as it doesn't hold screws well, either way you have to find a stud or install blocking.
Steel on walls would likely require strapping (1x4") which would hold up light cabinets, heavy if you made sure you hit studs.

I agree that OSB isn’t as good as plywood for holding screws, but it’s ok for light stuff. Still easier to work with than thin steel siding I think. Totally agree that either way for heavy stuff you need to find a stud.

I've done both ;)
You have to strap walls and metal is more expensive, but hands down metal is easy. You order it cut to length so only need to trim around odd bits. Metal sheet is light, just don't work it in a good wind.
I just put a metal roof on my house and garage, my shop (12' ceiling) is metal inside and out. All done by myself, the odd help if available.

When using metal on the walls is all the electrical surface mounted?
Seems like a PITA having to cut the metal for your electrical boxes for switches/outlets.

In our building, yes, it is in solid conduit with the outlet/switch boxes mounted to the face of the metal liner panels or attached to the columns.

It could be routed behind the liners with recessed boxes, but as you said each would need cut-out, which isn't that bad--you can use a grinder with a cut-off wheel, nibbler, or good old tin snips (most liners are 24 gauge or lighter).

Or what goes in 'em.

Thanks for the replies, All. I think I will end up going with OSB. Since I'm not heating the place all winter, I will probably leave small gaps and seal with paintable caulk to allow for some movement.

Now I have to wait for warmer weather to move the cars out!

My garage is unfinished and I have a thermometer out there, the temp ranges from 20 in the winter to 100 in the summer. My OSB is butted together and it is totally fine.

What do you do when you want to get into the wall to add/or change some wiring? Drywall might not the the strongest but it patches really simply. That said, I had a few dents but nothing out of place in a shop.

I take the screws out of the OSB, remove the panel, add or change and put the panel back in.