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OSB on Garage Walls
Hi All,
Does anyone have experience "finishing" a garage with OSB rather than sheetrock? The ease of installation is tempting, and I shouldn't have any code issues as the garage is detached. I plan on going with kraft faced insulation batts for the walls and ceiling. Garage is in NE Ohio, occasionally heated in the winter. Thanks! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515037920.jpg |
I did sheetrock almost everywhere but did OSB where I hang shovels and other stuff that bangs the walls up.
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Yes, did mine with OSB
Took a lot of paint to finish it up. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515038675.jpg |
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Looks great! Out of curiosity, did you leave gaps between the sheets, or butt them together tightly? I've heard some of it might expand / contract as weather changes. |
Thanks...yes butted them up tight.
No prob with expansion, but my garage is heated. |
What are you asking him for. He obviously has no idea what a garage is supposed to look like.
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The lift was there while I was doing the front two stalls...now it's in the back. |
I used HardieBacker 4x8 Cement Backboard on the ceiling of my non-working garage. Heavy so paid some guys to come in & do it. Took them about an hour...works good
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OSB then sheet rock over that so heavier stuff can hang off that if that's what you are after. I like the finish of sheet rock rather then OSB. I dislike that stuff. I rather have plywood under there then sheet rock, mud then paint over that. It does cost more. My own garage, its bare bone with nothing on the inside but lots of lights
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OSB with 1x4's to finish where the boards meet. I personally like the look but It's not for everyone. All the boards are joined tight together. The OSB is REALLY thirsty when it comes to paint. Used a roller when I first painted it but had a power sprayer the next time I was ready to paint which was much faster but it helped that I already had 2 or 3 coats from rolling. Did I mention the stuff is thirsty?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515063953.jpg |
My previous detached garage had OSB on the walls from previous owner . He also installed 1's to cover seams but they were just vertical . Looked good and was easy to hang stuff like wall cabinets , air hose reels , fans etc. without having to find a stud . I am building a new man cave at the new house and I'm going plywood in that one . Main reason for that is I found someone local selling 1/2 " CDX for 10.00 a sheet ! Will paint it and cover seams again with 1x lumber .
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MDO (sign grade - smooth) plywood would be the way to go, but it's like 4x's the cost of OSB.
CDX plywood isn't that much more than OSB and might even save you money on paint. I researched this topic not long ago and found a few examples of black paint on OSB, followed with a semi-dry roller of white paint to bring out the raised highlights. Gave it a sort of Tectum look to it. Cabmando, that's an awesome look. EDIT: I was thinking that a heavy stain blocker primer could seal up the OSB early on so that it would not soak up so much paint on the finish coats. I found this article that has some suggestions, but have to admit that I've never painted OSB myself. I do like the wonders of using stain blocker as a primer in some situations though. How to Paint Oriented Strand Board https://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-paint-osb |
I did one wall of my added on 3rd car garage with OSB, and the other with pre-painted pegboard. I would totally do it again, both are tougher than Sheetrock, easy to hang stuff, and best of all you don’t have to finish and sand the stupid seams. The OSB once painted looks pretty good.
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Don’t know why people use Sheetrock in a garage. I used beadboard. Seams are mostly invisible, easier to paint or oil, and durable as hell. Nail holes nearly disappear. Painting looks really nice but natural wood with a coat of oil takes garage abuse better.
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I did one of my old barns in OSB. I'll take pictures when it stops snowing!
No issues at all and I will be repeating the OSB on the second part of the barn that I sealed and concreted a few years ago. OSB does soak up the paint so I used a hefty spray rig. Easy day. |
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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardboard-Tempered-Panel-Common-3-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-155-in-x-47-7-in-x-95-7-in-832780/202404545 Quote:
EDIT: I found this on that idea. http://www.csme1959.org/re-bench.html http://www.csme1959.org/img/construc...scade02-rs.jpg Quote:
Adding 2x blocking between the studs at the horizontal joints would help, but that could be a lot of work and you would still have a thin vulnerable to impact material. On commercial projects we used MDO plywood typically furred on over a block wall, located on interior walls near loading areas that clients/customers might see. Looked great and durable but expensive. |
The pegboard was I believe 3/8" thick, so relatively rigid. There are maybe some subtle waves between the 16" OC studs, but not much. Plus I have a bunch of stuff hanging on that wall (hence the use of pegboard) so you can't see it.
I found a few crappy pics, the wall with the cutout is OSB and the wall with the stuff on it is pegboard. I still need to paint the stem wall. http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z...pss2yfr9av.jpg http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z...psdzqonqtx.jpg http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z...psf2d7ts0p.jpg |
I would be a little concerned about unpainted OSB in a unconditioned garage as it may absorb some moisture in the right climate and swell over time.
kachi's masonite (holeless pegboard) option may work for some people. (can't believe I'm agreeing with him on anything;)). It will take paint well and is very cheap. But it won't hold any weight. You need to find a stud to hang something heavy from it. |
Chipboard in my garage, sure sucked up a lot of paint, cheap but I wouldn't do it again.
My shop is done in steel above ground pool siding, local factory rejects and end rolls that I got for the price of scrap. Gray finish, wish it was white but not going to complain for the price and not bad enough to paint. The best solution IMO sheet metal roofing, pre-finished in white. More money but easy to install, already finished, fire proof (good for welding), power washable, mold proof, easily removed if needed. Instantly finished walls, two car garage it would be a one day project. Here the cheapest is about $1 sq/ft If you want it's easy to insulate and vapour barrier, walls/ceiling will be same R-value as sheetrock. My heated shop R-20 walls and R-60 ceiling, cheap to heat at 49*F and costs less to heat than my house at 68*. Quote:
Roofing I'd likely plan and put the ply up before the metal, then cut in around the ply. |
Remember that OSB is frequently used for exterior sheathing on homes. So while it isn't actually directly exposed to weather, it is frequently used in a non-climate controlled environment. I've even seen people use it on cheapo sheds where it gets exposed to the environment, it holds up surprisingly well. Overall it's really tough stuff.
The corrugated steel roofing/siding is also a great garage idea, my father in law used it on his shop ceiling and it turned out great. I might be a little concerned about denting if used for a wall, and the corrugated finish and thin metal wouldn't be great to hang stuff on. If you buy masonite sheets to paint, you would have to paint the unfinished side or rough up the finished smooth side. The finished side is a semi-glossy surface that won't take paint. Though you could buy 4x8 sheets of masonite siding and paint it. |
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