Saw this in a garage with over $1,000,000 worth of Porsches in it. Reflects the light making almost no shadow zones.

If I ever build another garage it is how I will go.

Corrugated metal

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515159545.jpg

I had a metal ceiling ( white ) in my last garage and will be adding a metal ceiling ( white ) in the new man cave I'm building . I think the white reflects the light very well and looks a little less commercial/industrial than the galvanized . But I am going with a 42 " tall galvanized wainscote to add a little bit of pop at the bottom of the walls .

My clients used that stuff in their tanning salon walls 20 years ago, I won a local AIA award for it, the metal hallway walls were a part of it. The owners (did some of their own work and were excellent collaborators on the design) said they tried it directly over the studs but it didn't come out right, so they ended up installing it over drywall. This was the thin somewhat decorative stuff, but not the thinnest available.

Looked up other uses, looks like you can do a ceiling.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPPbs0OHK84

I'd have to check the code on what they did in that house video, last time I checked metal transfers heat too quickly (in case of fire) which is why the code encourages drywall over any other material when it comes to walls and ceilings. Even exposed CDX board inside of homes is highly discouraged in the code. And what I mean is you have to read between the lines sometimes, and it always comes down to your particular inspector. Just because you saw a picture or video on the Internet doesn't mean you can get away with it too.

I know what your are thinking, but this is a detached garage. Well, if you have insulation and an inspector involved be prepared to argue against meeting a higher standard, have a Plan-B and a prepared case statement with code citations.

Yes
https://images.homedepot-static.com/...30-64_1000.jpg

Metal remove the screws and a whole 36" x 8' (etc) panel can be removed.

Actually it's not that bad, screw gun with a step drill bit and a pair of tin snips. Most of my shop is done this way outlet every 8', care has to be taken that you outlet doesn't land on a rib. Finish off with industrial metal outlet covers.

Conduit works well if you are ok with the industrial look, I have both surface mount and conduit in my shop. Surface mount on all the original wiring and conduit on my lift, welder, lathe, etc.

I really like that galvanized wainscot. That would do a nice job of reflecting light down low where you typically need it.

There was a time in our youth when we talked about putting mirrors on the ceiling over our beds to see what we're doing.

Now we think it's cool to install sheet metal on the walls to see what we're doing.
Wow, getttin' old sucks...;)

The only problem is, it's hard to convince my wife to join me on the garage floor.:cool:

Then aks somebody else, Matt.

Yes, this is another thing I like about it!

Good to know... I will probably end up butting the panels together. All the suggestions say to space them, but it seems most people install them tight. Should make for an easier install.

The OSB doesn't move. Much more stable than the studs it's attached to. New construction with bearing walls, even with the KD Dry studs we use, the studs and joists shrink a little. So it's gapped about 1/8 (10d nail) If the OSB was tight on a bearing wall, new construction, it could be a problem.

If your framing is older, it's settled out and dry, likely would not be a problem.
If it's new, I'd leave a 1/4 to 3/8 gap top and bottom and cover it with a little trim.

The garage is a few years old, so not sure if that is considered older. Is the gap on the bottom of the wall all that matters, or should I leave one all around each board?

Yes. Be sure to measure and weigh each fastener, too. Sometimes you get a short one.

She also wouldn't be fond of that plan.

Yeah, so?

Don't tell her. The wet spot wil blend right in like where most 911's park.

I wouldn't worry about it then.