Any deck builders? Need decking gap advice

[biosurfer1]

Originally Posted by dad911

1) I would replace the ledger fastened to the house. Looks like it was nailed (not to code) and nails are rusting. Wouldn't surprise me if there is damage behind the ledger. Use ledger locks or equivalent, rated for PT.
2) Aluminum is NOT to be used against PT lumber, it will corrode.
3) 2x6 is small for a joist. what is the span (distance between ledger and girder) and does it overhang the girder?

So I would use rubber stick-on flashing behind the new ledger, and on top of the new ledger to protect the aluminum flashing. As to the gap, I would just fill gap on top of the new decking with pvc trim board ripped to fit.

The ledger is just nailed in the picture I took, there are lag bolts on each side of the existing joists, however, NONE of the original hardware was galvanized or hot dipped which is a big part of all the failures. I replaced several pieces of the ledger that were questionable and will be replacing all lag bolts with LedgerLok screws. I used their structural screws in the main beams along with galvanized bolts/nuts. I put Grace Vycor flashing behind all of the ledger which actually did have some minimal amount of thin flashing but I replaced it because it was thin and didn't seem waterproof.

All of the joists are 2x8x12 PT and they will span 10' to the main beam then overhang 18". The original deck overhung 3' but they used 2x8x10 to the main beam, then sistered another 2x8x6 for the overhang. I choose to remove the sister and lose the extra 18", deck is already big enough and I didn't want to sister more joists.

I will try and take some pictures to give everyone a better idea of the whole thing.

[dad911]

My bad, misread 2x6 in first post.

If you are going through all the trouble of new joists, I would change the ledger. Also typically you would solid block between joists at the girder.

Good on the vycor. Get it in between any aluminum flashing, and the new wood. The new ledger will destroy aluminum flashing w/o the vycor barrier.

This should answer most questions, including alowable overhang: http://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/dca/AWC-DCA62012-DeckGuide-1405.pdf

http://www.deckmagazine.com/products/materials-hardware/beyond-aluminum-flashing_o
The two most common replacements for CCA — alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ) and copper azole (CA) — contain two or three times as much copper, in a chemically more active form. When aluminum flashing contacts this copper-laden lumber, the aluminum quickly corrodes. For the majority of decks, which are framed with pressure-treated lumber, aluminum flashing just isn’t an option anymore.

[biosurfer1]

Here are some of the before pictures I took with the issues:

Original deck, right before demo









This was scary!

[biosurfer1]

New beam

[dad911]

Watch the step height at the slider. Now that I see the pic..... 8-1/4" max from top of decking to top of sill/saddle of slider(not the interior floor). If your new decking is thinner, that may be an issue.

From IRC: R311.3.1 ....... The exterior landing or floor shall not be more than 81/4 inches (210 mm) below the top of the threshold provided the door does not swing over the landing or floor.

[look 171]

The bounce comes from under size joist not only from the decking. 5/4" will be ok at 16 centers. You should also block off the joist mid way. 2x6 seem a bit small, agree with dad911. I replace the ledger with a 2x10 ( if you have room) to eliminate bounce. Yep, what's the span?

[911boost]

I (built a lot but had a contractor friend help too) just finished mine and can post pictures if you want.

I used 2x10’s on 12” centers. Due to snow I left a gap between the top of the decking and the bottom of the house siding. I also covered all of the tops of every single joist with Vycor to keep it from getting water in and rotting the joists.

Mine is about 22’ x 38’, so it’s fairly large.

I used TimberTech composite decking because the Brazilian redwood I used on my last deck is prohibitively expensive now.

With the lighting on each post and the zero maintenance aspect of it, I am very happy.

Bill

[911boost]

Here are some pictures of mine, my beams are significantly more substantial than yours...


New footings


Framing



Blocking in the posts for the railing



Decking and railing on, it’s a bit dirty in these pictures

[911boost]

The ones of it previous didn’t post...

[KFC911]

Nice! That last pic is my favorite

Not the orientation....the dawgy...

[biosurfer1]

All of the joists and ledgers are 2x8, don't have room for bigger or else I would have gone 2x10, however according to the online calculators I should be fine. They will span 10' at the furthest then a 18" over hang. I will block all the joists and have double rim joists.

To give an idea of the old deck, I have pictures of the stairs stringers that go up to the pool deck, and they were attacked to the single rim joist with uncoated nails. All were rusted and simply pulled away during demo. Hardly a screw or nail came out in one piece, all were rusted and broke or just pulled out. Scary stuff when I have a 3 year old running around on it. My buddy putting his foot completely through a deck board was the final straw.

[biosurfer1]

I liked TimberTech but, and it may be a California thing, but most composites we're more than double the SA hardwood, at least the quotes I got. If they were 100% maintenance free and no issues, I would have done it but my research said otherwise. No snow where I am so that's nice to not have that issue.

[biosurfer1]

Here is one of my favorites from the original deck I found during demo... This was the worst post connection but practically every nut on the main posts were less than finger tight.

[VINMAN]

Originally Posted by biosurfer1

New beam

One big issue I see with that beam is, any splices are supposed to be made over a post.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by VINMAN

One big issue I see with that beam is, any splices are supposed to be made over a post.

I noticed that too. Why not just stick a big honking 4x on there and be done with it? which way are the floor joist running, out from the house, the same direction as the spliced joist? Is that the spliced limber the double rim joist? If so, it seem lower then the ledger. I am also concern about the drain, it will clog in no time and how will it be access for cleaning? More pics will help

[biosurfer1]

Ideally, splices are to be made over a post however staggering the splices should work fine according to my research. Every 2x8 has at least one post supporting it along with it's sister board (i.e. no floating board in the beam)

The original deck had (untreated) 4x6 beams that had twisted pretty bad and from what I have read, laminated 2x8's in the staggered setup I'm using will be stronger than a 4x6 beam and have a reduced chance of twisting. It also allows me to change out single pieces if anything happens (rot, twist, etc) in the future.

The joists will run perpendicular to the beam shown, resting on top of the beam shown (2nd beam down further) and secured with hurricane ties, then cantilever over about 18". In California the hurricane ties aren't required but it will help keep everything lined up until I get the blocking up and they are cheap enough that it can't hurt to have them.

That drain is actually one of 4 in a series under the deck that can drain out around the house either direction. Luckily there is space to crawl around under the deck so I know I'll have to clear out the drains from time to time but with the skirting I'm putting around the outside of the deck, it does a decent job of keeping leaves out. It clogged the first big rain of this year and held up nicely since then.

[porsche930dude]

Put the hangers on after the boards are in place. Pt boards can vary up to 1/4"

[biosurfer1]

Originally Posted by porsche930dude

Put the hangers on after the boards are in place. Pt boards can vary up to 1/4"

Hm, that's a good point. Might have to combine both techniques and make up a removable jig that I can place on each joist as it goes into place that spaces it correctly. Thanks

[VINMAN]

Originally Posted by porsche930dude

Put the hangers on after the boards are in place. Pt boards can vary up to 1/4"

Ive been using this the past few years, to set my joists on the ledger and rim , before I install my hangers. They work great.

Ill go through half a stack of lumber to try to get consistent joist widths. Up to 2x8 is usually fairly good. Over that, the widths vary a lot. I try to avoid having to trim where they sit on the beams.

[tevake]

Can't really comment on the framing, some good tips above tho.

I replaced 2x6 fir decking with 1x6 Ipe over joist on 16inch centers. The new deck is very stiff, no flex is noticeable. That Ipe is very stiff, and probably close to as heavy as the 2x6 fir. Edge Fastened the decking with stainless screws thru plastic biscuits. So only had to fasten thru the deck boards at butt joints and the edge boards. Set those screws well in to allow for wood plugs.

The Ipe is very weather and bug resistant, still in good condition after ten years in place, this is on Kauai with rain exposure on about half of the deck.

Used Kumaru for interior flooring, also very hard and stiff. Just not as weather resistant as the Ipe, which is not pleasant when dealing with its dust from cutting/ sanding.

Not sure about the beautiful tiger wood, think it may be best suited for indoor application.

Would cover the top of the joist before laying the decking.

Very satisfying enjoying your new deck built with select quality materials.

Cheers Richard