School me on road bikes ...

[aigel]

So, I have the bicycle bug. It kills me how fast people are on road bikes. And I have a bunch of guys and gals wave them in front of me on the train every day ... I used to have one and have fond memories. I think I need to save up for one. I'd like something that I could take on my commute sometimes and also up a local mountain that's a really good biking road with traffic being light in the mornings - and cars prepared for cyclists because there are hundreds of them ...

So, with light commute and climbing usage and a budget of say <2k, what would you recommend I buy?

- Al, steel or C?
- Should I consider a touring bike, so I can have a rack, or is that too heavy?
- What type of equipment - is it all Shimano nowadays?
- Used or new?

When I look on CL, it seems people have very high asking prices for bikes with unknown miles. And you never know if they face planted and how good that frame still is (is this a larger concern on C than metal frames?). Also, on the C frames, technology seems to be fast moving, so even a $2k bike that used to be $6k now may be a boat anchor?

I hope you have some input, fellow bikers!

G

Edit: I would like do do a big ride such as the "death ride" some day when I am fit enough. Also a good use for a road bike!

[aigel]

Colnago with Campagnolo equpment used to be the sheets back in they day. Still is apparently. I think this one is over my budget though:



I really wonder about the carbon ... is it that much lighter/better? It looks so damn bulky!

G

[look 171]

Well, I have had my share of bikes, steel, alum, Ti, and carbon. I am a big fan of carbon, but I can be just as fast on an old steel bike that's 30 years old. If I am having an off day, then all bets are off.

For 2k, I suggest you guy new, carbon (remember, I am bias). Take advantage of the sale in the big box store, while I like my local bike shop that cater to boutique race bikes, but there no deal to be had there, so I would steer you away. Wish you were down here, I take you shopping.

I like Shimano or SARM. I've has great luck with my SARM group on my Ridley Democles. Shinamo just works and works. I have both electronic and mechanical shifting. To me, they are both the same. With mechanical ones, its easy to adj your self, but the electronic shifting, there's a bit of a learning curve, but not difficult.

Get a sport / race bike if you want to go fast. IMO, there is no bike that will do it all, not such thing. For 2k, that's a solid bike and will hold up well.

I have a top of the line Trek I raced. I ride it once or twice a year. Yes, the technology has grown so much, only in comfort and feet, but not so much on speed. I think that's till the same.

I buy a Fuji. I think they are the best bang for the buck. I now ride a Time RXRS with elec. shifting, but I were to go racing again, I take my Ridley with mech. shifting. I like the way it feels when I get on the gas. It goes, but not too comfortable, like a stripped out track , if you will.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by aigel

Colnago with Campagnolo equpment used to be the sheets back in they day. Still is apparently. I think this one is over my budget though:



I really wonder about the carbon ... is it that much lighter/better? It looks so damn bulky!

G

Yes, it is that much better. They are able to dial in the area of the bike where it needs to be flexible for comfort and other areas for added stiffness. That's exactly what my Time is. Stupid,, me, I like to jar my fillings loose. Typ French bikes are known for that.

Like the Colnago. Great to look at, and I am sure they are fine, but too much money and the benefit of the extra amount isn't there. I raced two Colnagos (none were carbon). Why the heck are the stems so short, I can't seem to understand.

[aigel]

Thanks Jeff!

So, new Fuji carbon bike with a Shimano group?

My local bike store carries Trek. I am okay with Trek bikes. I have been a bit disappointed on some of bearings - head set and bottom bracket (I know!) on various MTB I bought for my family. Maybe Trek could do better on components.

This time I will be wise and not buy a new bike in May. I think time to shop is October. Do you agree?

G

[look 171]

You are not using this thing to commute, are ya? Treat it like a toy, similar to your 911, go out to raise hell on a Sunday ride. Ride the other bike to work. If it bang up or take a spill, you have no worries.

[jyl]

Various considerations.

New or used. New bikes depreciate hugely. There is no benefit to getting the very latest model. Bikes are very mature technology. Last year's model is fine. Heck, a 2012 model is fine.

Fit. Critical. Bike shops often don't fit customers well. You have to know what size you need. Obviously so with used bikes too.

Weight. I'm a weight weenie, to some extent. But realistically, as long as your road bike weighs 20 lb or less, it's okay for typical recreational riding. Lighter bike, lighter wallet.

Components. You'll be looking at the standard road bike component set. Double chainrings, front derailleur, 9+ speeds (cogs) on the cassette, rear derailleur, integrated brake/shift levers. Probably caliper brakes, maybe discs. In all likelihood, Shimano. All tiers of Shimano work okay, but Tiagra looks and feels cheap, DuraAce and Ultegra look and feel niiiiice. Similar comment about the various tiers of SRAM, Campagnolo, etc. For $2K your not in electronic shifting territory.

Frame. Steel and aluminum are sturdy and you can confidently buy a used one with a bit of inspection. Carbon I don't know about. I might lean to buying those new.

Type. Simplistically, there are race, sport, touring, cyclocross. If you plan to load up with heavy panniers for a long tour, you want a touring bike. Race and sport are a matter of degree, but some sport models have a high head tube, which makes it hard to get the bars a good distance lower than the saddle, if you wish that aggressive a position. Cyclocross bikes are getting very popular, they can take wider tires than race bikes which makes them versatile.

Features. The main one I'd care about is eyelets on the fork and dropout, for fenders and a rack. If you plan to have those things.

Aesthetics. Very important, of course.

So, start with these questions:
1. How tall are you and what is your bike inseam (google it), and how flexible are you (can you touch the ground with legs straight, can you put your palms flat on the ground).
2. What kind of rides do you want to do - 50-100 mile hilly rides, short flatter rides, fast group rides, solo commutes, only ride on dry days, ride in all weather, etc.
3. Do you, or are you willing to, ride with clipless pedals? If "no" then fuggeaboutdit, only hipsters ride road bikes with flat pedals and only retro fogeys ride road bikes with real toeclips/cleated shoes.
4. Do you want one bike that you'll stick with for a long time, or do you want to buy a starter bike to ride while you learn what you really want? You can always sell the starter or turn it into the rain bike.
5. Are you going to work on it yourself and have tools/are mechanical, or do you own one tool and it's a butter knife so you'll have the bike shop maintain it?

[aigel]

Yes, I think you just convinced me to not go compromise and buy something that can also do a commute. Then it will be a compromise and no fun.

Just like taking the 993 to work, I can take a road bike to work, just have to drop food / clothes the day before and pick up the day after, using the truckster commuter bike!

G

[sc_rufctr]

@ 2k you can buy a really decent bike. Trek build some beauties and they're one of the better brands.

Trek Bikes - The world's best bikes and cycling gear | Trek Bikes

Mostly likely "your" Trek would be equipped with either Shimano or SRAM components. Both decent but side by side I think Shimano make better gear.

Something like this? On special at $1,899.99 (was $2199.99)

Émonda ALR 6 | Émonda ALR | Performance race bikes | Road bikes | Bikes | Trek Bikes

[look 171]

Fuji Transonic 2.1 Road Bike - 2015
I lIke this because of the Shimano Ultegra (light, and quick shifting, People race on it now). I am bias, and disike 105. I am sure they are fine, but I am a snob. When it somes to road bike, I am a big fan of getting what I like.

Ridley Fenix Ultegra Carbon Road Bike - 2016

This is a great buy. Ultegra.

Fuji SL 2.3 Road Bike - 2016
This is a great buy, but I failed to understand why they would mixed and match with bit and pieces of Shimano 105 in there. But then its OK, its only the brake caliper and Cassette.

Check em' out. I will try and look elsewhere and sent you links

[look 171]

Originally Posted by sc_rufctr

@ 2k you can buy a really decent bike. Trek build some beauties and they're one of the better brands.

Trek Bikes - The world's best bikes and cycling gear | Trek Bikes

Mostly likely "your" Trek would be equipped with either Shimano or SRAM components. Both decent but side by side I think Shimano make better gear.

Something like this? On special at $1,899.99 (was $2199.99)

Émonda ALR 6 | Émonda ALR | Performance race bikes | Road bikes | Bikes | Trek Bikes

That's a good price for that bike. Head tube is so long. I would feel like I am riding a beach cruiser.

[look 171]

Road Bikes & Frames - Carbon, Aluminum, & More | Competitive Cyclist

Check out these guys. Depending which bike, they sometimes have great sales. Check out the Ridley Helium. That's a pro level bike. The pros rode them in big European races. I wouldn't buy those lower end Colnagos.

A Ti bike (used?) is sure bet, they just do not break. Their muted feel is a huge welcome in longer rides especially if you are dog tired after a long day in the saddle and are 40 miles from home.

[look 171]

George, keep in mind that the bikes I shown you are race / sports oriented so they are not so good for touring up the cost to enjoy the view going slow. I have seen many people do nothing but ride organized centuries and have a $ 9000 full on race bike with deep dish carbon wheels only to ride the damn thing at 12 miles with no benefit but hurt their shoulders and ass along the way so, be careful with your purchase. If you want to go fast, and enjoy great feed back with every pedal stroke, then you may want to look into a sport/ race oriented bike, otherwise buy a sports/ touring bike. They make those in Carbon now and are pretty light. I find them lazy coming out of a turn but super stable. Better climbing gears with trip. rings up front and much cheaper too. They can be has for about 1000-1500 bucks.

[look 171]

George, why buy used if this thing is 1900 bucks, if you fit a 54? What's not to like, 11 spd Shimano and this thing shifts flawlessly. Again, race bike, so be careful. Tell you the truth, you will like this thing after you actually ride it.

https://www.coloradocyclist.com/fuji-carbon-sst-2-1-complete-bike-2014

I bought two frames from these guys over the years. They carry good stuff.

[LEAKYSEALS951]

Make sure to test ride as many bikes that you can. It's like playing different guitars to a certain extent. They will ride and feel different. The one you think you should like might not be a love connections, whereas, another you weren't even considering will "speak" to you.

Don't get too caught up in component brands. Shimano works. SRAM works. You won't get a total lemon in that price range.

Carbon fiber really lets you have your cake and eat it too. I grew up on fine steel frames- and scoffed at new frames, but a good carbon frame really can give you more comfort AND stiffness. It doesn't really matter on short rides- but 5-6 hours into something, it can make a difference. Aluminum frames with carbon fiber forks and seatstays also work pretty well.

[greglepore]

Strongly second the Fuji recommendation. I fill in at a shop that sells both Trek and Fuji and would recommend the Fuji over the Trek to someone in your position. The Fuji SL frame is one of the lightest production frames made at about 1/3 of the cost of the others in its class. The 105 brakes are to hit a price point, and they're fine. It handles well, and is reasonably comfortable.

The trek to consider would be the Domane, as it has a number of features to tune the ride to be unbelievably smooth, yet the bike still handles well. But it is mucho dinero more than the Fuji.

Fuji's are really underated bikes because they have a smallish marketing budget.

[HardDrive]

I have a Specialized Roubaix that I love. I've been riding it for about 10 years. Relaxed riding position, carbon frame soaks up tons of road noise, love it.

My advice is to not let people talk you into an overly aggressive bike! Be honest about what you're going to be doing on the bike. And lastly, if possible, buy used. There are tons of great bikes floating around for 1/2 (or less) of the original cost.

Checkout the Roubaix SL4.

[pavulon]

Second or third on buying used carbon fiber.

[David]

I highly recommend carbon if you can swing it. It just does everything better. I hit a bump yesterday I didn't see and one hand came off the bars but I saved it since most of the shock was absorbed by the bike. On a steel bike I would have crashed for sure.

I'm still not a fan of the electronic shifting although a lot of serious riders are using it and pretty much all the pros. A good friend fought his several times which left him stuck in one gear for a long ride.

[MFAFF]

Hmm.. Tough question...

Ideally you would get a TI framed, disc braked Di shifting endurance/ gravel road bike.. which despite what others say is good enough to do it all not of course that you want to limit your bike numbers...

Seriously tho.. I have a full on carbon roadie... a bespoke steel roadie and an Al/ carbon forked daily... The speed of each is proportional to the quality of the wheels on the bike. I have just changed my daily wheels (also now running 28 tyres versus 23s on the roadies) and the speed is now broadly comparable across the range;- they are all now in the Shimano Ultegra quality level.

I have test ridden this range: renegadeseries and they are fantastic.... the Elite was amazing and I would love one.

At our age (hmmm) the rider weight/ fitness etc is a far more important factor than the bike itself... I know my 1986 bespoke steel frame is far faster than I can now ride it. On the same course, similar weather etc my speed, power etc are so similar on all three bikes that I must conclude that bike performance is not a significant contributor to the speed... my full race carbon is the least comfortable... my steel racer is the most comfortable and no slower. My daily is tough and fast.. not as comfortable as the steelie... not as nimble as the carbon... however with disc brakes it is, dry or wet the bike with the best braking ability and capability. which when navigating Central London traffic is a plus.

I'd easily commute on a ti framed, disc braked, Di shifting gravel/ endurance machine....

Second hand carbon is good, provided you are comfortable with not knowing its real history, one of the guys here did go that route and one snapped frame later was less than happy....