hey, WTF was Jack Reacher doing with that roll over from his back move in the first movie..at the gun range? total BS?

I wish I could shoot prone, but it’s either the table or standing. No other option.

I lowered my seat and shortened the bipod after that round. I do have to reaquire the target after each round.

No double taps unless I want a wild one!

Caldwell Magnum Deadspot Fieldpod ....I only use mine standing, but it's versatile. I am a casual novice...the last official range I was on was 45 years ago....a few hundred yards from here at my boy scout camp back then. So that being said, don't you dare PM LakeCleElum for pointers!

....make Bob 'splain it to the rest of us too :)!

It's slightly over dramatized, but if you shoot prone, with a vest and sling , there is a bit of rolling in and out of position required.
But not that much

I think it's also something specific in the book about how he slings up and rolls in to position, and that's how the range dude figured out who he really was.. or something like that

Fair enough, but get sand bags to shoot more stable, or keep your bipod from jumping/moving around

Load the bi-pod with forward pressure. Lean into it, so to speak.

that doesn't work on a flat table, need to find something for it to grip or stand against. sandbags or a heavy range bag

I keep checking on this thread....to see what I've been doing wrong all these years ;). Other than boy scout camp, I've never had a bit of coaching or training....I was using the "wrong" trigger finger...my "go to hell" finger....guy just asked me why? I'd never noticed...

That's about the only thing I've ever changed...even though I'm missing the second joint on my index finger. But I "can" shoot, and hit what I aim at...I'm just a natural...but certainly not a trained marksmam. At 58, I'm not gonna fundamentally change what "works" for me....it'd be sorta silly imo. Sometimes folks can do every thing contrary to "by the book", and still excel doing it wrong...jmho. I've seen some absolutely pathetic "basics", produce spetacular results in other areas...a baseball or golf swing, a jump shot in b-ball for example...

I still like to know how "the pros" do it though..
..

The pro's just shoot a lot and they use what works for them.
And usually they don't shoot for groups.

Shooting groups is really not that big of a deal because quite frankly a 3 shot 1 MOA group means nothing.. a 5 shot 1 moa group is worth more.
a 10 shot 1 moa group even more

But you never see those.. you see the 3 shot 3/4ths moa group, with a caliper next to it
And somebody who tells you his rifle is a sub moa rifle.

Shooting groups is boring. It means very little.

I'de be more interested about the shooter who goes out and makes 1 shot per day
at 500 yds
And can make it a shot in the black each time.
Doesn't even have to be the X

If he does that for a year, he will know his rifle
he will know his ammo
he will know how the wind plays.

Now if somebody like that takes a shot each day at a different location, you'll be looking at a true marksman.

Here's a friend of mine (well never met him, but he was on the Long Distance Shooting in Europe FB page I started and ran for a few years).

Start at his first video..He's a machine.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmKvQfvjqbUakUotekAyxew

I went to shoot in Norway, was shooting steel in various distances in the rocks.. up and down, my 308 went to 900 with a 10x40 scope
Then i got a TRG44, set it to the 1350 meters gong
First shot was a hit
Then i said, fuch it, i'm not going to improve on that, and called it a day :D

LOL...a couple of years ago, one of my fishing trips lasted for exactly two casts...sometimes ya gots to know when to call it a day....

It was a whopper bass ;)

I think I’m going to go back out and see if I can do better with the old single shot. I may even try out the 200 yard range, if I can see that far.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1528374488.jpg

I have a Smith and Wesson mp15 with a cheap scope. I don’t think I can shoot much better than 3” groups with it.

All the above is good advise.

From my High Power NRA competition with an AR configured for service rifle competition:

Breathe, hold, squeeze and be surprised when the shot is taken. Follow through after the shot went down range to get the sights back on target, then relax and get ready for the next shot.

Another thing I have done. Shoulder the rifle and get it comfortable in your shoulder with off-hand support. Then close your eyes, take a couple or three normal breaths, exhale slowly and hold your breath. Open your eyes and see where you are aiming. This would be your natural point-of-aim. Adjust your position accordingly and repeat until when after you open your eyes, your point-of-aim is on target.

The target below is from one of my better days. Of a possible 200 points, I got a 197 with 4X.

• Prone position, 20 rounds in 20 minutes with each round loaded singly (empty magazine),
• Use of the sling tight enough that you could fall asleep in prone position and also positioned on your left bicep so as to not get a pulse beat from your heart,
• Open iron sights at 100 yards.
• Ammo was Black Hills, Sierra 69 grain HPBT.
• Rifle barrel is a stainless steel Krieger at 1:7.7 twist.
• Trigger is a two-stage with the second stage to break at 4.5 lbs.
• Front and rear sights are iron sights but tweaked a little from the standard AR iron sights.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1528378378.jpg

Also, in High Power NRA competition, at 100 yards, the aiming black is 6" in diameter, X-ring is 3/4", 10 ring is 2". As the range increases, the 200 yard aiming black is 12", 300 yards is 18", and at 600 yards, the aiming black is 36". So the sight picture you see at 600 yards looks the same as it does at 100 yards.

Oh, one more thing about iron sights on the AR, your sight picture would be like a soft ball sitting on top of a fence post. Called a "6-o'clock hold". Some shooters like to put a "line-of-white" between the ball and fence post. Others will push the front sight up to the ball until the line-of-white disappears. I prefer the latter. With the rear sight being a peep, you have to imagine a cross-hair in the rear sight so that the imagined cross-hair and the top of the front sight align.

And this little book may help. First 4 chapters are free on the web site.
https://www.jarheadtop.com/Free%20Blue%20One.html

one more thing. aiming on a black center with a red bullseeye is probably not great.
black reticle on black center, it's all just black and your eyes will play with you.
it's hard to find the same spot and introduces aiming errors

I ended up using PVC white board , and then put a nice black dot on there for scoped zeroing at closer ranges (100-400) 1 inch stickers for 100, or 3 inch for 3-400

easy to spot through the scope what you did
also easy to patch up again

If you don't see a hole, you either missed the board completely or went in the sticker.
Especially at 3-400 that helps since you can forget about seeing holes in a spotting scope over a sandy field, in the sun, the mirage kills it all.



This is where I shot in norway, you can forget about windflags or reading wind off the grass here , it's really predicting where you think the wind will rise and fall over the valley.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1528381092.jpg

To the right of that little island is a rock, barely visible in the picture
I used that to zero my rifle. the Rock was about 450
a water splash is very handy to see if you hit the rock or not :D

I need to see if I can take a picture through my scope. To me, the target looks tiny. But then it’s only 6” I think. I’ll have to check when I get home.

I can’t imagine shooting with iron sights.

I wish I could say I have one brand of 223, but I usually buy a case of whatever is on sale.

Try Black Hills ammo in 69gr. HPBT.
Black Hills Ammunition | The Power of Performance

You can get new or re-manufactured from Black Hills. But verify the twist rate on your rifle barrel and get the bullet weight best suited for your rifle's twist rate. For the 223, different bullet weights will dictate the twist rate for best accuracy. Maybe this article will help.
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=530927

Also, in the past, I have found that Black Hills 223 re-manufactured ammo will come in Lake City brass. Good stuff for reloading on your own. Lake City does military ammo and the brass is thicker and holds up better for several reloading sessions.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_City_Army_Ammunition_Plant

Up down printing is often breathing or heartbeat (breathe held too long)/or anticipating the round going off (leaning in) and left right is often trigger pull. Right to left diagonally is all of the above.

Get a snap cap round (dummy you can dry fire with) and balance a dime (someone, wife, GF places it there) laid flat on the barrel....a good clean trigger squeeze/break and steady hold will allow the dime to remain in place after firing.

Make sure your eye relief and stock weld are consistant...everything you do must be consistant.

With a scope those are lousy 100 meter shot groups...just honest....shoot 3 round shot groups...no more than 5 rds before marking. With iron sights those are lousy 100 meter shot groups....truthfully.

Practice and start with the basics.....become very good with iron sights first.

I don't shoot long distances like you guys.....mebbe 125 yds max. My eyes are still "good" though, so nothing I shoot wears glasses either :). Learn to play an acoustic before picking up an electric guitar...sound advice from Keef....same applies here I reckon. I bet Higgins can't put more .177 pellets inside a tennis ball at 30-40 yds than I can with our Diana 34s however..and he can even use a scope if he wants to :)

Reiver opened the door:

yea, i would expect tighter groups with a scope.

Seattle Police Range is next to the Boeing field airport. Range said no more of those roll-over stunts after a gun was discharged pointing straight up.

I'm a newb when it comes to spoons. I've only been to the range a half dozen times with my spoon and used the scope twice.

But I'm learning!