Rust inhibitors or just epoxy primer?

[Bez]

Restoring a '71E targa that is 95% rust free...only significant rust in the front suspension pan that will be replaced entirely.

I'm doing a bare metal repaint, that is, bare metal on all outside panels, door jams, etc. (will prime & paint over orginal factory finish on undersides of hoods, lids, etc.). Also, undercarriage & wheel wells are in good shape, so I'm not planning on stripping these down. I succumbed to peer pressure from this board and stripped the tar material from the interior floor boards, so this will need to be refinished.

Here's my question...

There are a few areas of surface rust on the floor boards, windshield frame, targa bar and various spots underneath the car (where the undercoating has cracked).

Should I use POR-15 / Zero-Rust or other product on all these spots and then cover in epoxy primer OR should I just clean out as much of the rust spots and just epoxy prime?

I've done some searching on Pelican and 101autobody and have heard both options argued. More recent threads suggest that catalyzed epoxy primers are maybe more effective than these rust inhibitors in the long term.

Appreciate thoughts on this.

[78SCRSMAN]

Bump... I have the same ?

[rw7810]

follow Freddie's sticky thread above.

[962porsche]

as you know sand blasting is best to remove all the rust . i am not a big fan of por-15 . i would rather use SEM's rust-shield with there hardener . it comes in colors and its chromated to stop rust . it can be sprayed over aluminum or metals and it will hold up very well with there high mill build . if you use the flat black #3009 with there hardener it will match the gloss and finish of the OE floor pan coating . add 5 to 10 % of any enamel reducer and it will lay down and match the gloss of the black painted 911 porsche dash . one job i used it on was the under side of my car trailer that had scaling rust .i flaked off as mush rust as i could with a scrapper and wire brush . i then brushed on 2 coats of SEM rust-morts # 69508 on then rolled and brushed on 2 coats of black rust shield #3810 . i was hopping to get the summer out of the job but its been almost 5 summers now and it still looks ok . the rust is just starting to come back were the rails cross each other .

[rw7810]

i've used POR-15 too in the past, but Zero-Rust has allot going for it, costs less and has allot of fans among the professional ranks. Search here for information : <B>Autobodystore Forums - Powered by vBulletin

[962porsche]

don't get me wrong por 15 is ok i do use it at times and so people do love the stuff . but my dislikes of it are cost 39.26 a QT . SEM rust-shield is 52.08 a GAL . add the hardener for an other 19.67 . and it comes in colors . por-15 down sides are UV protection there is none . flash times ( for 3 coats its 3 an a half hours or booth time ) to long ! finding the proper gloss well thats a pain in the butt . time to handle about 5 hours . thats to long too . recoating is finicky . and its a laquer based were SEM is enamel based .

[Jagshund]

I agree. Replica watches have SOOO much to do with rust inhibitors.

Where's a moderator when you need one?

[962porsche]

1968cayman yep his business must be real SLOW if your posting adds on a forums ? i want a replica watch about as much as i want a replica porsche !