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1870 911 t Rust issues
Please take a look at my pics and let me know if i made a bad decision on buying this car. Here are some photos of the rust i am worried about they are on the right side below the rear torsion bar. Please help!!!!
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I can say that's certainly not good. What do you want to do with the car?
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I am not sure. Any suggestions?
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oops meant 1970 911t
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I can't speak to the the deal you made on the car. I can say that if you want to learn something about body work, you certainly picked a good candidate.
I am certainly no expert but when they do chime in, they are going to ask for more info and better pictures. You need to get that car up on a lift and get a good picture of all the rust damage. Particularly, you need to check for damage of the torsion bar tube and longitudinals (where either end of the tube attaches.) Those are critical areas. In short, you have some work cut out for you. I'm just starting down that road myself. My new welder is still in the box in the garage. |
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1980 911 SC
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Parts are out there and can be had.
Did you buy it with the intentions of a rebuild? Are you going to do this yourself? If so, do you have experience welding and doing this type of work?
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Life's a Beach |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: cooperstown NY
Posts: 894
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it can be fixed,
you will need a rear floor pan, a sway bar mount and a longitudinal repair panel, it may also require some hand fabrication. the big question is the status of the torsion bar end. and your skill and willingness to try. whats the car look like? great color, more pictures! how are the rockers?, the front pan?,b pillars? does it run? it is a longhood and worth saving unless a basket case.
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bob 1972 E pos correction: expensive pos someday.... "shut up and drive!" Last edited by robmog; 12-01-2009 at 07:12 AM.. |
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What do you mean by torsion bar end?
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Yes it runs great
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MOre pics of the 1970 t
First i would like to say thanks for all of the support. My wife wants me to keep the car and have fun resoring no matter what the cost. Sort of. I have a friend that does excellant sheetmetal work but cant get to it right now. so i will start tearing her down and deal with it. here are the before pics ill probably start tearing her down this weekend.
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: cooperstown NY
Posts: 894
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the torsion bar tube runs across the width of the car and attaches to the longitudinal.
it supports the control (banana) arms and swing plates. and it contains the rear torsion bars. in your first picture, look straight up into the hole. you'll see the torsion bar tube. if its rotten that adds complexity to the repair. i see its an updated longhood, its beautiful, but taking it back would be expensive. i'd fix the rust and have fun with it. wouldn't even need a repaint. your wife is supportive, that's great! "no matter what the cost" be real careful here these old cars can turn into money pits! i'm already about $15,000 into my restoration. sadly its true, better to spend up front and get a solid car rather than try to restore it yourself. i must say i am having a blast doing it.
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bob 1972 E pos correction: expensive pos someday.... "shut up and drive!" |
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Where is a good source of sheetmetal parts?
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300hp 1800lbs is the goal
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I'm getting most of my cuts off the forsale forums. I have some similar work eventually.... I'm replacing the rusted out front strut towers first..... then workin my way back. The replacement longitudinal repair panels are pretty pricey (I think they're like $450/side) so I'm going to make mine from scrap, altho I think my '66 ('65 production) is in better condition near the torsion tube.
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The '66 912 Bastardization project has begun. Note to PO's: LAY OFF THE FREAKING BONDO!!!! The science was settled: Earth was flat. Galileo : Flat Earth denier. ![]() |
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Torsion tube is fine i am going to start with a front pan replacement first since i have the whole front pan that came with the car. Last owner got skeeered!
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(the shotguns)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 21,597
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phew, not a chance in hell i'd mess with that.
unless done VERY well it will be obvious and SERIOUSLY impact the value of the car. sorry to be negative but my opinion is rust back there means you have a car to part out.
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***************************************** Well i had #6 adjusted perfectly but then just before i tightened it a butterfly in Zimbabwe farted and now i have to start all over again! I believe we all make mistakes but I will not validate your poor choices and/or perversions and subsidize the results your actions. |
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Tough call
My druthers would be to find a car without that degree of tinworm.
I have had a '70 911T for almost ten years. here;s a pix. Good luck ![]()
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Rollin rollin rollin Rawhide............ |
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Formerly reformed
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Rutherfordton NC
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Rust anywhere doesn't mean @#&^$. It's a matter of patience and a willingness to learn. Take your time and if you have questions, post them here with lots of pictures.
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1968 911P (Paperweight) |
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: South Cackalacky
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DIY has an innate requirement of large cajones. No reason to be skird, jus take you time. Buy books study first buy the parts, compare and assure you have the correct parts, carefully dissassemble check fit, check again check again check again, one more time check again and go at it! I like the idea of a project. It's the journey that's fun. Good luck, post your progress.
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