RM Product Line

[Shaun @ Tru6]

My goal this weekend is to get my driver side rust repair done, get the cut away outer rocker drilled out, get the new/old inner rocker down to bare metal and epoxy prime it.

Any thoughts on BASF's RM line for epoxy primer? Is it a good foundation? Do I epoxy prime and then seal?


Rocker cut away, couldn't wait until the die drill arrives today




Some rust in the very front corner.

[tharbert]

EEK! Is that looking forward toward the bottom of the door hinge post? I got the shivers:



Either the epoxy or the self etching primer is appropriate for bare metal. Depending on how deep you want to dig in there, POR15 may be good for sealing up cavities you can't reach to clean/repair/replace.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Great picture!

Looks like I've got a lot of work to do this weekend.

[tharbert]

Maybe the next several weekends, I think. I posted a lot of photos I used in my blog here that have pics of fixing that area.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

excellent, thank you, nice welding! That will help a lot. Talk about a rabbit hole. I got a quart of the RM on Friday, should have gotten a gallon as I'm definitely painting the whole car now. The shop set it up so it's an epoxy primer sealer the way I'll mix it.

[yel911]

Shaun,
I can't wait to see your progress!!! Subscribed!!!

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Hey Moe! Don't subscribe here, go here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/746910-opened-longitudinal-can-worms.html

That's where all the posting will be.

Looks like I'll be painting my car later this summer.

[962porsche]

in reply to what you were asking about RM epoxy primers .
yes it's a very good product !
just what seal are you thinking of a seam sealer or undercoat sealer ?
some seam sealers are a DTM sealer just check the one you pick before you apply it over bare metal .
as for undercoat sealers you can do that rigth over the RM's epoxy primer . you can also mix the EP RM epoxy primer as a sealer .
this can be done in two ways you can mix it 4parts EP /1 part PA897 to 1/2 part UR reducer .
it can also be mixxed as what is called polyuroxy and that mix is 3 parts EP / 2 parts UA97 to 1 part DH46 .
we use allot of the polyuroxy mix in my shops it works great of your panel is in bare metal and you want or just need to spray it with no plastic body filler on it .
you spray two med coats of the polyuroxy and then just spray your top coats right over it .

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Thank you 962!

For seam sealer, I got SEM 29372 which the guys at the paint shop said (IIRC) you can paint right over it even when wet.

For the primer, I got the EP569 and PA897 as you note. The guys said mixing 4:1 will give me an epoxy primer sealer, they didn't mention the UR reducer so I don't have it. Can you please let me know if I need the reducer. We got to the store at the very end of the day on Friday and perhaps they forgot it, we kept them 10 minutes after closing time.

the only thing I recall though is one saying he mixed the primer to be a sealer. is it possible my quart of EP569 is already mixed with the UR reducer? I can call them too.

For undercoating, haven't thought that far, and hit a serious wall on Saturday finding more rust and more incredibly bad older repairs than I could have ever imagined. Floors seem to be good but I should probably strip them just in case given what I've found so far. You may have seen my longitudinal worm thread.

What is critical to me is I do this car right. Going to be quite a challenge! Tomorrow I'm pulling the inner rocker off, just seems like the right thing to do.

I will paint it the original Gemini Blue when all the welding and bodywork is done.

[962porsche]

the SEM seam sealer 29372 you have is a good seam sealer for a one part type sealer and you can paint right over it after you apply it . the down side to it is you have to apply it over a primer or down the road it will start to lift off the panel seams .

the UR reducer is for all RM and glasurit products . as i stated many times before the two reducers are the same (glasurit and RM ) so you can buy the lower cost RM UR reducer and use it in the glasurit product line .

no your EP primer is not mixxed with any reducer in it ! mixing it with 1/2 part of UR reducer will make it a sealer . if you mix it just 4 to 1 it's a primer . it just gives more Mill build and a little peal with out a reducer with the reducer it will lay down like glass and have less peal to it . when you spray it mixxed 4 to 1 you think it does not have any peal but when you top coat it you will see a little .
the trick to EP type primers is to use as little as you can more is not better ! so when it states 1 to 2 med coats two wet coats is way to much and the product will not do it's job of you load it on the panels .

when you talk about undercoats it's not the black rubber crap it's the coats that are under the top coats they are called undercoats . many people think it's the black crap but NO it's your primers and sealers .

[Shaun @ Tru6]

thank you very much, critical info. Now I have to call the paint shop and see what's what. Looks like I'm now going to paint the whole car so I don't mind the SEM over primer and then the gemini blue over it.

On your undercoat question, first I was planning on spraying RM epoxy primer and then RM sealer. That's when the paint shop said I could do 4:1 on the EP they gave me and it would be a sealer too, also that it would be high build...does everything but the dishes.

I see you've posted a huge amount here and helped so many gratuitously. I'll do some searching and see what you've recommended in the past, thanks for the help so far.

[962porsche]

the EP line of primers is not in any way a build type primer .
it's a primer that can be used in diferent ways but that is not one of them .
it is a primer surfacer or a adhesion promoter or a wet on wet sealer .
it's all how you mix it as to what you will use the product for .
go to the BASF site and look at the TDS they have on the EP primers or ask your area basf store for them .

how you would use the EP primer is spray a coat or two on your bare metal areas .
there is no need to spray it over any OE top coats that maybe on the car if your not stripping it down to bare metal .
then you wait about 20 to 30 minutes and spray your filler primer right over the EP primer .
if there is bare metal on the car and it will be some time before you have to filler prime it you can also just let the EP sit open on the panels . then do your body work right over the top of the EP primer . spray another coat or two over any area were you broke thru to bare metal when doing your body work again wait 20 to 30 minutes and spray your filler primer right over the EP .
because your going with the EP RM primer you now should say with the RM product line . a good filler primer to use is there DP20 primer . it has very good hold out and will be your best bet for a filler primer .

[tharbert]

Before you cut into the inner rocker, consider some bracing inside the tub. You don't want the puppy twisting while you have the rockers off. When I tore into mine, I had the tub leveled and on 6 sets of blocks to keep it from moving so I wouldn't have to add bracing.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally Posted by tharbert

Before you cut into the inner rocker, consider some bracing inside the tub. You don't want the puppy twisting while you have the rockers off. When I tore into mine, I had the tub leveled and on 6 sets of blocks to keep it from moving so I wouldn't have to add bracing.

Thanks Tharbert, good advice. I made the dolly so the car rests on the torsion bar tube and is triangulated at the front of the floor. My sense is without any real outside forces, the car would be hard-pressed to twist even with only the inner sill holding the driver side together. But better to be safe than sorry so I was considering tying the sills together with the upper door mount with the rear seat belt mounts.

if I made the bracing, I could then cut both sides apart, cut the rear quarters off and really go to town on the rust. So will start working on that soon. 3/4 tube ought to be fine.

Once the rust repair is done, I want the car to look like this, a 73 I did years ago, 2004, seems like a lifetime now. Much younger man back then.