Pelican Parts
Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   Pelican Parts Forums > Miscellaneous and Off Topic Forums > Paint, Bodywork & Detailing Forum


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
Author
Thread Post New Thread    Reply
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Iowa, USA
Posts: 352
Preventing flash rust after blasting

I am in the process of restoring a 1974 911. I made the ultimate mistake of buying the car sight unseen off the internet - and it wasn't quite what I expected - it needs a considerable amount of metalwork.

A "short" list of issues include:
- the seat mounts and inner sills / longitudinal's have been cut out so the PO could mount a set of BMW seats
- a number of large holes, some as big as 6" diameter have been cut in the firewall
- the RHS footwell (the panel between the footwell and the smugglers box) has been cut out
- 27 holes (3/8" diameter) have been drilled in the floor pan
- the front trunk has all sorts of holes cut in it
What makes it worse is most of the holes look they have been cut with either a cold chisel or an oxy torch.

I have removed all of the bolt on parts / windows and mounted the chassis on a rotisserie. In order to streamline the metalwork I am going to have the chassis sandblasted (dustless blasting) so that I can start welding up all of the holes.

I can handle the metalwork myself and will farm out the painting. As the metalwork will likely be carried out over the next few months (I have a day job ) I am concerned about flash rusting after sandblasting. The car is in my basement garage that is climate controlled.

I have done some searching on how to prevent flash rust starting after sandblasting but couldn't find anything recent. What suggestions do you guys have for preventing flash rust after sandblasting?

Thanks in advance,
Richard.
__________________
RSR Replica - http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/472762-rsr-update.html
930 Cab - ex-IA car, 3.4L, 1.2 bar, G50
996 Turbo - X50.

Last edited by motley911; 03-14-2018 at 10:37 PM..
Old 03-14-2018, 08:42 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Iowa, USA
Posts: 352
Here are a few pictures of the car - I will post some pictures of the areas needing repair later. Oh - I realized that I never mentioned it is a 935 replica.

This is the car in the process of being mounted to the rotisserie.

You can see one of the many "holes" in the inner fender to smuggler box in the picture above. Notice the "rough" edges



__________________
RSR Replica - http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/472762-rsr-update.html
930 Cab - ex-IA car, 3.4L, 1.2 bar, G50
996 Turbo - X50.

Last edited by motley911; 03-14-2018 at 10:40 PM..
Old 03-14-2018, 10:34 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 154
Garage
Once you are finished with the blasting. Apply a good epoxy primer (PPG DP40/DP401) to protect the steel.
Old 03-15-2018, 07:37 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Iowa, USA
Posts: 352
Thanks for the reply. For the primers you suggested - can I weld through them or will I have to grind the epoxy primer off before welding?

If that Is the case I may as well just remove the existing paint in the areas that I am needing to weld (wire wheel in a grinder) and not sandblast the car until I am ready to paint.
__________________
RSR Replica - http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/472762-rsr-update.html
930 Cab - ex-IA car, 3.4L, 1.2 bar, G50
996 Turbo - X50.
Old 03-15-2018, 08:09 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
onboost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Metro DC
Posts: 5,465
Quote:
Originally Posted by motley911 View Post
Thanks for the reply. For the primers you suggested - can I weld through them or will I have to grind the epoxy primer off before welding?

If that Is the case I may as well just remove the existing paint in the areas that I am needing to weld (wire wheel in a grinder) and not sandblast the car until I am ready to paint.
You're gonna end-up havening to remove the epoxy primer off before welding. So yeah, may just want to wire-wheel, fix, spot prime and move-on until done. Looks like an interesting find/project.

Good luck!
__________________
RGruppe #180
So many cars.. so little time!!
Old 03-22-2018, 05:18 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,410
This stuff is great, but holy crap it's like doubled from when I bought it last.

Autobody Store: <b>Picklex-20 Click Here for Options
Old 03-26-2018, 06:32 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #6 (permalink)
 
dkbautosports.com
 
962porsche's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: branford ct
Posts: 3,316
just spray one coat of a epoxy primer down.
once you have picked what product line you are going to use stay with in that product line .
so if your going to use glasurit for your top coat use all glasurit from your undercoats right thru to your top coats . do not mix and match your product line. so if your go with PPG stay with that line.
personally i do not like any other products other then BASF. it's what most top auto makers use for there coatings and it's what your porsche came with new.

with epoxy primer you should be able to do your body filler work right over the top of it. but check your TDS to be sure the epoxy you pick you can do that.
some people like to do there body filler work over bare metal but most times it makes no difference if you do or not. again just check your TDS to see if you can.

as for welding.
you have to remove the epoxy were your going to do any welding. a stripped disc works good for removing the primer. i tend not to grind the primers off as the grinding marks could bite you later on after your all finished painting the car.
a stripped disc will give enough of a tooth to have a body filler bite into it.
i like the orange norton strip and clean discs best. they seam to last longer then the 3M's discs and will not fly apart if you catch an edge.
Old 03-27-2018, 07:55 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #7 (permalink)
Reply

Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

 


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:04 AM.


 
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page
 

DTO Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.