Stuck Engine Lid - Page 2

Paul Thomas · 03-06-2003, 03:26 PM

Unscrew the t-handle from the cable end and the decklid should pop open. I noticed when i was putting my car back together after repaint, that they are set up where if the cable breaks the trunk/decklid opens automatically. In the case of the front, just open the drivers door, you can see the wire, and cut it.

Paul

Bill Douglas · 03-06-2003, 03:29 PM

Thanks Paul, some people just dont listen.

Paul Thomas · 03-06-2003, 03:34 PM

Damn bill, i missed your post. I was so stoked that i was the one that had the answer! Finally!

Paul

greglepore · 03-06-2003, 04:22 PM

Now that is some positive thinking! Lets hope its not permanently jammed.

greglepore · 03-08-2003, 07:13 AM

Still stuck after trying all of the above. Begining to think about using a saw.

cstreit · cstreit's Garage

I had to do this once... Ended up using a hack saw blade to cut the post. Just wrap some duct tape around it except where you are cutting to prevent scratching the paint... Last resort though...

Give it a few days of messing around and thought before doing this because then you have to buy a new post...

Paul Thomas · 03-08-2003, 07:40 AM

If you unscrewed the t-handle and it didnt open then someone hooked it up wrong, which isnt hard to do. Can you remove the license plate panel and muffler? If so, you should be able to reach up there and fiddle with it. Last resort, if i were gonna cut anything it would be the decklid grill, reach in there and remove the decklid to hinge bolts and tilt it out to get a hand in there. Like i said, last resort.

Paul

magilla · 03-08-2003, 09:09 AM

I have the same problem on my SC, but I haven't been around to straighten it out.
Are you guys saying I can just remove the muffler and get access to the post without destroying anything or having hands like a 5-year old?

I might even try that myself. Please confirm that it is this easy- I tried all the wiggling, jiggling, twisting and chicken dancing....

Teutonics · Teutonics's Garage

I have an extra post if you need it. Give me enough to cover shipping and it's yours.

Send me a PM if interested.

john70t · 03-08-2003, 10:35 AM

The same thing happened to me. I snuck a 10mm offset wrench in the gap to unbolt the top pin plate. Did it a couple of times. Definitly lube the assembly with spray silicone to clean and tube lithium or otherwise to lube.

Jbabic · Jbabic's Garage

did you try the eastern version or the western version of the chicken dance?

john walker's workshop · 03-08-2003, 01:01 PM

off with the muffler. then you can get a long screwdriver to reach the lever that the cable pulls. you can just see the forward part of it. if you bend the rear engine tin a bit, you can see more.

Patporscheguy · 03-08-2003, 10:22 PM

Hey, same thing happened to me too, imagine that

My friend and I puzzled and cursed over it for a while, and finally in frustration hit it, and it opened. If you level the lid out and push down the latch should fall open. I couldn't get to the parts, even with my muffler off, but when I pushed it straight down it came all the way up.
Try this a few times before cutting.

Mark McClure · 03-09-2003, 01:01 AM

I have also seen this.......however i found that the setting for the clip is central......so if the cable is too long you will not get enought movement. Try tightening the T handle, giving enough movement.......my 6 year old undid mine a few turns and created the problem. It took a while to work out how and what. So before you try either undoing or drilling work the cable both ways.

Cheers

Mark......

Germaneighter · 03-10-2003, 06:21 AM

The bumper was already off my car......(doing some body work after being punched from behind by a female S-10 pilot.) I tried to access the lever via the engine tin seal, but with the muffler in place, it did not look possible. Instead of removing the muffler, I drilled a 1/2" dia hole in the crossmember directly under the latch. This exposed the bottom of the latch including the tapered tip of the adjustable pin. With minor coercion from a screwdriver, the lid opened. Caution; if you drill the hole too far forward in the crossmember, you will be drilling through two thickness of tin plus you will miss your access. Install a 1/2" body plug in the hole for future access. Thanks for all the helpfull advice.

DLG

greglepore · 03-10-2003, 10:54 AM

Thanks to all. Since the bumper is off mine as well, and the little sheet metal tray just ahead and above removed, I think the drill or hole saw idea is very appealing, as it will leave a future access .

greglepore · 03-11-2003, 10:17 AM

Just completed the job using Germinator's tip, but cut a larger hole. There is a stiffening member there that needs to be removed. Lid popped right up with a screwdriver's help. Adjusted the latchpin, and all is well. Thanks, everyone.

shinrai · 10-23-2018, 03:20 AM

Adding this photo here for future reference to anybody that runs into this jam. Same problem - could not open the lid after adjustment on my '87 911. This thread really helped out. Tried everything but drilling an access hole was the only solution. Remove muffler and stamped aluminum plate above it. Screwdriver in the the access hole got it open. Here is where to drill:

JSV798 · JSV798's Garage

It is a good idea to remove the grille BEFORE you attempt adjustment. When adjusting bear in mind that the cable must be pre-tensioned. First make sure that the handle is fully screwed onto the cable at the door end. At the lock end loosen the cable clamp screw; the lock will then be open; it opens automatically if the cable breaks. Move the lever with the clamp screw to a point where you can see most of the "blade" and tighten the clamp screw. Test. If it fails to open you can reach in through the grille opening and release the lock lever by hand.

It is important to realize that the lock has two open positions: one when the cables has no tension and two when you pull on the handle. This clever design means that if the cable breaks the lock opens, otherwise as you have found there is a problem.

The front hood lock was the same on the early models but has been changed. Presumably it was thought not to be such a good idea to have the hood unlock at speed.